ACID ETCHING FOR THAT EXPENSIVE LOOK{Article by Della Harman}
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| Acid etched or gold encrusted china is some of the most attractive and expensive decorated china sold in the high class shops. It is also an almost extinct way of achieving this look. The new non acid methods have almost eliminated this techique, but the real acid etch is still the prettiest in my estimation. | |
| MATERIALS REQUIRED |
Asphaltum Glass etch or acid Liner Square shader (optional-sponge and cutting tool) |
| APPEARANCE OF YOUR WARE WHEN ETCHED | The design is in relief, seemingly cut into the china and is covered entirely with gold, luster, china paint or used in combination of paint and gold or luster. The part which is cut away gives a dull appear- ance as the glaze is entirely destroyed and the design is in bright relief. This is accomplished by protecting the glaze of the china wherever it is to remain with a coat of asphaltum. After the asphaltum is sufficiently dried, it is ready to be dipped in hydrofleuric acid. This can be done by a professional as it is very dangerous to use. (The glass etch is a bit less danger- ous but only a bit.) You MUST take care to wear rubber gloves and a mask if you are going to do it yourself. |
| ACHIEVING YOUR DESIGN | Draw or trace your design on your china. Take a small amount of asphaltum from the jar with a palette knife. Thin with turpentine (if needed) to the consistency of thick cream. Draw your liner through the asphaltum and apply design thickly with the tip of the brush. When you have fully covered the design apply the resist with the wide shader all over the china where the glaze is to remain untouched. The asphaltum or resist must appear dark brown, if yellowish, it is too thin. Be sure all drawing lines are covered. Remember, wherever the white china appears, the acid will attack, so entirely cover the bottom of the ware as well as the design surface. ie: inside cups, etc. When dry enough, (this should actually be pretty dry feeling, only very slightly tacky to the touch. Use etching tool to cut out veins, stamens etc. Care must be taken to cut clean and sharp. You do not want to pull away little pieces at the side which will make the design appear ragged. If the asphaltum is not hard enough, it will pull and cling to the china, leaving a thin film of oil which will prevent the acid cutting evenly. If dried too long, it will chip away as you work with the tool. |
| BACKGROUNDING | The background may be treated by touching a small piece of sponge to the asphaltum and stipple on the china in large open areas of background. This would be in preference to a solid covering of the background. Leave narrow space between stippling and the design. In applying the asphaltum to a design of fruit or flowers, it is effective if some of the leaves etc. are painted over solid and others just outlined. It is also effective to have some of the design extend into the painted area of your work. |
| CLEANING YOUR WARE (REMOVING THE ASPHALTUM) | When piece has been dipped, wash and scrub with a brush and amonia water. After thoroughly drying, go over it all with the glass burnisher and scrub well. This will remove the white powder, which will turn purple when gold is applied if not thoroughly removed. When piece is thoroughly cleaned, cover with a good coat of Liquid Bright Gold, working well into the china. Fire when dry. After firing handle with tissue paper until burnished. |
| NOTES FROM NEBRASKALASSIE | I would like to add the amendments I use. I use the glass etch (Armors) method. I do the design area just as described in the above. Then I put the glass etch where I want the eaten away glaze to appear. I let it set about 20 mins to 1/2 hour, depending on how deep I want the etch to be. The longer the time, the deeper the etch will be. Glass etch does turn brown after it has been opened and used once, this does not mean it is not good, only that it has been oxidized by the air. It will still work fine. However, after it has turned brown a little longer time is required to achieve the etch. After letting the glass etch set for a period of time, use very hot water to remove not only the etch, but also the asphaltum. If the asphaltum is a little stubborn and refuses to wash off, use a little turpentine to disolve it and it will rinse away just fine. Then wash ware again in hot water with a little detergent added. Rub some baking soda over the etched area to stop the etch action. Rinse again in the soapy water and then rinse in clear water. Dry. Place in your kiln and let set for awhile (even a day is nice) to be sure the ware is completely dry. Fire at 016. {note, if it does not clean readily in soapy water or if it has set for some time and dirt has gotten into the design, a little comet scrubbed with a brush will clean it to its original white.} You can then paint your china painted design in two, three or even more (as many as you need)to complete your design work. The last fire should be the liquid bright gold. Roman gold can also be used if you like the appearance of it better than the Lq. Bright. Nebraskalassie |