The /2 engines are so nicely designed that it is a joy to work on them. But you need quite a few special tools. The original Matra tools that are described in the manuals are both expensive and hard to get. Most tools are easy to make, especially if you have access to a lath. You probably won't make perfect tools that last for hundreds of engine rebuilds, but for the occasional slinger cleaning operation, these are good enough. While dissasembling a R60 engine I made these pictures. Tool descriptions are in the /2 FAQ.
First remove the clutch. replace three clutchscrews with M8*1 bolts and nuts, Then remove the other screws and gradualy release the nuts. In the picture I use only two M*1 bolts. It works, but three is better.
Then release the flywheel nut. You need a real big spanner for this. Look at the bar that prevents the flywheel from turning.
Pull the flywheel. In the flywheel are two M10*1 holes. You can either put M10 helicoils in there or use two M10*1 bolts. Here you see a hybrid, a stud with M10*1 on one side and M10 with M10 nuts on the other side. The puller is just a block of steel with an M16 bolt to press. When the flywheel lets loose, it does this with a loud bang.
Remove the magneto. Use a good grade of steel for the pin in the middle. I used part of a 5 mm hex socket wrench.
Pulling the timing cover. That plate with all the holes is my üniversal plate. Help the timing cover with soft blows of rubber mallet on the top and bottom to keep it square.
Pulling the camshaft. After you removed the four screws that hold it down. Again a job for the universal plate.
Pulling the camshaft gear. Heat the gear with a propane torch if it is the all-aluminium variaty. If it has a steel insert, don't heat it. The two M8 studs are passed through the big holes in the gearwheel and attached with nuts and washers.
Allas there is no picture of pulling the crankgear, the most stressfull job. Here I used a Kuckoo puller with the legs grinded down untill they fit under the gear. This worked fine, but the Kuckoo is a two legged, very expensive high quality puller. An average highstreet puller might bend, break and damage the gear teeth in the process. Gearwheels are more expensive then pullers!
Pulling the bearing flange. Heating the crankcase might help a little bit. After you do this you can throw away the bearing.
Now the crankshaft can be pulled from the crankcase, if it heated so much that the rear main bearing slips out of the case without force.
Reassembly goes without a lot of special tools. Apart from bushes to hammer in the seals, I use only one tool, a strong bush, inside diameter 40 mm, length about 10 cm, together with the universal plate and a M8 stud to press in the bearing flange again. The rest is heat. Especially the gearwheels need to be hot (not redhot of course!), then they slip on the shafts easily. If they stick or hang on the woodruff keys, pull them off and try again.
One extra picture: dismantling the front shock absorbers.
Good luck.
