Riding Info
The general rule of thumb is to shift at 10%
above peak h/p. In our case, this equates to 9350 rpm. Looking
specifically at the Max, however, the *ideal* shift points are slightly
different for each shift....
At the ideal shift point, the loss of torque to the rear wheels as a result
of the shift should be as minimal as possible. In order to calculate the
point, one must consider the torque curve of the engine, each gear ratio and
the resulting change in rpm as a result of the shift. With this in mind, the
shift points for the Max should be:
- First to second: 10,000 rpm
- Second to third: 9,500 rpm
- Third to fourth: 9,300 rpm
The ideal single shift point for a shift light module depends on how fast you shift. Most set the point around 9300. Remember...revs will come faster in the lower gears.
Just for interest sake I ran a spreadsheet on "theoretical ET" for the Max
. The formula is principally based on a weight to horsepower ratio
calculation and is the same type used in some of the over the counter
performance evaluation software products.
I used the average Max stock (112.8) and Hindle (117) peak hp figures given
by John Ganey (of PCW Racing) in an earlier"V-boost". I assumed a wet stock Max weight of
616 lbs. and a net loss of 24 lbs with the Hindle pipe. The lb./hp includes
rider weight..
Of course the numbers are theoretical and assume perfect traction and
optimum shift times.....but it does illustrate how much of a factor weight
plays in the end results...
Et's
| Rider | ...Stock | | ...Hindle |
|---|
| Weight | lb./hp | est. ET | lb./hp | est. ET |
|---|
| 140 | 6.702 | 10.98 | 6.256 | 10.73 |
| 150 | 6.791 | 11.03 | 6.342 | 10.78 |
| 160 | 6.879 | 11.08 | 6.427 | 10.83 |
| 170 | 6.968 | 11.13 | 6.513 | 10.88 |
| 180 | 7.057 | 11.17 | 6.598 | 10.93 |
| 190 | 7.145 | 11.22 | 6.684 | 10.97 |
| 200 | 7.234 | 11.27 | 6.769 | 11.02 |
| 210 | 7.323 | 11.31 | 6.855 | 11.07 |
| 220 | 7.411 | 11.36 | 6.940 | 11.11 |
| 230 | 7.500 | 11.40 | 7.026 | 11.16 |
| 240 | 7.589 | 11.45 | 7.111 | 11.20 |
0-30 mph 1.3
0-40 mph 1.8
0-50 mph 2.3
0-60 mph 3.0
0-70 mph 3.7
0-80 mph 4.7
0-90 mph 5.7
0-100 mph 7.0
Incidentally,MCN's stats for 0-60 and 0-100 are ~10% higher
Also, in case anybody cares...
the braking distance for Max from 60 mph is 120 ft.
(Brakes! I don't need no steenkin' brakes!!)
Calculated at 9500 rpm redline:
1st gear 55 mph
2nd 79 mph
3rd 103 mph
4th 129 mph
5th 150 mph
____________________________
Engine speed at 60 mph = 3800 rpm
- Back into water, roll forward just out of water (or as I do just ride
across water with rear tire avoiding putting front tire in water) (yes,
you can do without water)
- Grab front brake (I use 2 fingers) & lock, push down on front to get
weight off rear
- Put into 2nd Gear. All experts agree that use of 2nd (sometimes 3rd -
for burn & go's) reduce stress on driveline, make burnout's more
controllable, make burn & go's (runoff's) longer and more controllable
- Left your butt just slightly off seat, not all, but a little, and fit
firmly planted & flatfoot stance... If you don't and you sit down hard
the bike will fishtail to much...
- RPM to 4200-5000 & hold.. and NOW, as I told Cheryl, TRUST ME and
- FULL CLUTCH DUMP (use two fingers here to - my preference), no
hesitation, no reservation.... Even if you don't do this you won't get
killed.... and you can still have kids.
- The bike may JUMP,.... hippy-di-hoppy.... regardless if (1) you did
not push down on front (2) RPM a little low (3) front brake not locked
(4) no full clutch dump.... but don't worry... this is not a scary
event..... don't panic & pull in clutch, just correct with higher rpm
5-6000 & keep brake locked. If you do panic, just pull in clutch.... if
you do get out of shape (ala beaumont doing 180 degrees swing in burnout
area & scaring everyone) - just pull in clutch.... Normally I dump and
bring up rpms quickly
- Soon as you dump it you want to stabilize your rpm and your bike for
initial burn.
- Bring RPM up to between 5400-6000 - not over 6500 during this phase or
you will get to much sliding around.... the RPM and your weight on seat
control the stability of the burnout... don't worry though... vary you
rpm while your trying to stabilize. Use the upper part of your thighs &
your butt still lightly touching the seat to control what sliding you do
get. If the bike is sliding right keep your rpm steady and just push
the bike over to center again - getting correct rpm does not introduce
to much sliding.
- Hold approx. 3-6 seconds (2,000 seconds for Mr. Furbur). Look down at
smoke. When smoke starts rising 1-2 seconds just watch and heat for a
second or two. My avon requires more heatup then normal max tires & I
hold burn for 5-10 seconds, supplemented by a smoking runout.
- Make sure you faceshield is down then start to scream yell, laugh & go
crazy to get focused, the adrenaline going and make sure no one can see
or here you -- this is the PUMP it up & GET CRAZY part (actually it's
my showoff & open canister show-it-off-ego phase)
- The runout or stopping the burnout: Even if your not going to do a
runout you should move forward during the burnout atleast 1-2 feet away
from the water.
- While starting to sit down in seat, trying to keep bike straight,
increase rpm to 7000-8000 rpm, and also just as your doing this,
gradually release front brake to move forward, trying to keep bike
straight. Be prepared to pull in clutch should you start getting
sideways - even when your a little sideways once it starts to hookup it
will really snap..... this does need practice.... start with just a few
feet and then progressively increase..... sometimes even when I want to
do a long (100'+) run out I get a little twisted and can't do it....
- Increase RPM during the runout, as you increase length of runout to
avoid hooking up. When your done pull in clutch & shutdown throttle
together.
- The clean... to clean tire after burnout (optional). Hold rear brake
down, 6-6500 rpm, quick clutch release & retraction for 1/4-1/2 second
chirp - enough for one tire revolution.
......
I was hired by Cycle World Magazine and Popular Mechanics to ride the
V-Max at the dragstrip in 1985. It was in the Cycle World May 1985
issue, and this was the original bike test that also went head to head
with a 427 SC Cobra. The track was Baylands raceway in Fremont, CA
known for it's good sea level air and always a slight 3/4 mph tailwind
in the afternoon. It was my home track that I raced at every Wednesday
night and Sundays for many years. It was a clear, cold day and the air
was primo. I sprayed VHT for the first 150 feet. VHT is a traction
compound that will tear your shoe off if you try walking on it.
The V-Max was brought to the track by the Cycle World Senior Editor
Steve Anderson. It had 1800 miles on the clock and at the time was the
first one I'd ever sat on. I held over 40 National Dragracing production
records at that time and was excited to see the best we could do. After
a few feel out passes, figuring out the torque curve, shift points, and
what RPM to launch at, the thing flew. This one was a runner, and it
shifted pretty well.
After about 8 passes, it ripped out a 10.62 ET at 129.87 MPH with the
mirrors on. Let me tell you - in 1985 that was awesome for a stock bike
and I was very impressed with the horsepower. Keep in mind at the time I
was competing with Jay (Pee Wee) Gleason, who was maybe 130 pounds wet,
where I weigh 170 lbs in my leathers.
We then installed a special machined rim with a small 6 inch Firestone
car slick and a set of wheelie bars. What suprised me was that the
engine made enough torque to pull off wide open, drop the hammer
launches. The best time with this setup was 10.41 ET at 126.82 MPH.
Anyone that says it's eay to run a 10.50 ET on a stock V-Max has been
smoking a little too much something.
Most magazines correct their times for sea level conditions and other
theoretical who-knows-what. The numbers I ran that May afternoon in 1985
were right off the scoreboard - no correcting.
Dale Walker
Holeshot Performannce
I could go on all day on how to launch a V-max at the strip. I�ll give
you a few tips.Before I go into that, here�s a couple of other points.
- I�ve run in the tens 10:50 to 10:90 on several V-maxes well 6 or 8
anyway. Two for magazines and others where on customer�s bikes. I
weight 170 lbs race ready in leathers and helmet.
- Keep in mind I�ve made over 20,000 passes and have set over 50
production records on variety of motorcycles so don�t be hard on
yourself for not posting those big numbers. I also ran a drag racing
school sponsored by Kawasaki in the late 80�s.
- The V-max pee wee Jay Gleason rode was a pre-production bike that
was positively massaged. Jay also at the time weighed about 130 lbs
suited and could ride equal to myself. So power to weight ratio is abiggy.
- I have found that when you can milk everything from a production
bike with your riding talent that every ten pounds is worth about 6-8hundredths.
- Many of the magazines these days correct the times for sea level. I
wish they would post the numbers on the time slip then tell you the
temperature, track and altitude where the test took place. This would
be much more of a real world test in my opinion. All the ETS I ran were
on the scoreboard not corrected. The tracks were Fremont raceway and
Sacramento Raceway in California. Both can be very fast or 3 tenth slow
depending on tail wind, temperature, day vs night, etc. There are manyfactors.
LAUNCHING THE V-MAX!!!
I guarantee you�ll lower your ets and be more consistent using my
technique at the strip. This is how I ride the V-max only not
necessarily other models.
Problem#1: most riders get too eager and turn the throttle too early
and slip the clutch when they launch. This causes you to spin up the
RPM, burn up clutches and wheelie or get sideways when the clutch does
engage or just plain be inconsistent.
Answer:
a. Do your burnout in second gear to heat the tire. Be sure to let the
clutch out quickly with the front brake clamp tight and apply throttle.
Start with the tire in the waterbox then roll forward to the edge of the
dry pavement before letting the clutch out. WARNING: never get the
front tire wet. Always back in to the bleach box.
b. Get in your launch riding position early not while staging. Feet
back a little near rear foot peg area on the ground, arms slightly bent
leaning upper body forward. Your body should be in a straight line from
a side view with a lean forward look.
Clutch and throttle control: I call my V-max technique the loft out method
- pre-load the clutch just so the bike does not creep. Do not hold
into the grip. By doing so, you have no clutch control whatsoever.
- try to launch from 4000 to 6000 RPM. Start at 4000. Keep the
throttle very steady. Do not blip the throttle or let the throttle
creep up!. This is crucial. When the light comes down start to slide
the clutch out aggressively. This doesn�t mean dump it or slip it. Do
not turn the throttle yet! When you hear the exhaust, note pulling down
its time to let the clutch engage fully and at that exact moment begin
to roll into the throttle and drive through the bog. If you feel it
bogged too much then try 500 RPM higher on the launch until you find
that sweet spot for your weight and track surface. Remember clutch
first then throttle. This is the key to control the front wheel lift,
wheel spin and consistent launches without clutch damage.
- Be sure to let your Max cool down between runs and do not let it run
in the staging lanes waiting to make your pass.
- If the fan kicks on or you let the temp gauge climb too high,
you�ll take the clutch out in a heartbeat.
- I know a lot of you are probably sold on some type of synthetic
motor oil. Well good luck at the strip. The clutch will go away much
sooner when running it.
- Remember to be smooth when rolling into the throttle not just snap
it open. The V-max is pretty torquey and this can ruin a good launch.
I offer a racing riding instructional video and booklet set if anyone�sinterested.
Yours Truly,Dale Walker
Holeshot Performannce
Here's the rest of running a low E.T. at the strip.
- Be tucked in by the time you get in second gear. I call this
getting under the paint. This really helps ET and MPH especially on a
non fairinged bike like the V-max.
- A properly tuned V-max with a 4-1 exhaust will pull up to 10,000
RPM. I know your saying: but on the Dyno my peak power is 8,900 RPM so
why turn it so hard. Well this is why: the trans has too much of a gear
drop from each gear and they shift much better if you buzz the motor
up. I've found 10,500 is uneccessary. 10,000 to 10,200 seem to be the
sweet spot on the ET and MPH.
- Shifting techniques:
Power shifting will run the best ETS. But unless you have a very good shifting bike, it can be hard on parts. Also if you miss a shift you could tag a valve. Power shifting is when you hold the throttle full
open and fan the clutch just enough to complete the shift. I've ridden
a few V-maxes where I could power shift 1-2-3 but had to back off and
use the clutch to make it hit 4th. These were new bikes as well.
- I highly recommend my Electric Powershifter 2 with reversed shift
linkage. This allows a one up four down pattern thats much more
positive. My Powershifter allows full throttle clutchless shifts by
interrupting the ignition momentarily. This allows for a fast smooth
gear change. The clutch stays fully engaged saving clutch plates and
the basket from getting hammered during shifts.
- Stay tucked tight through the last MPH light then slowly roll out of
the throttle and sit up. Once you've reached about 110 MPH apply gentle
even braking.
- If you ever hit something on the track or develop a speed wobble
never clamp on the brakes. The best thing to do is pull in the clutch
and keep a tight grip on the bars until you come out of it.
- Go change your underwear.
So till next time, have a great time on your V-max.
Yours Truly,
Dale Walker
Dale Walker
Holeshot Performannce
(408) 761-2808
Ok here goes. Although I am hardly the wheelstand king around here I will try to give you some clues on how to get it up
and keep it up. (Yea I know that sounds funny)
- Its easier to learn and easier to get it up on a lighter, shorter
wheelbase bike than max. Preferably a 200 lb dirt bike.
- Its easier going uphill.
But for the max.
Put the bike in first. Slide all the way back on the seat. From about
3000 RPM shut down the throttle letting the forks collapse. Wack it open
as the forks hit bottom and are rebounding. Let the forks help you with
the weight transfer.
- Keep the weight of your arms off of the forks as
the front is coming up. It will also help keep your arms from getting
stretched out tight and causing you to inadvertanty pin the throttle at
the worst possible moment.
- You can even tug it towards you to help it
along. Let the front end rise up about a foot or 2 and then shut down
till you get the feel of how quick it is gonna come up.
Use the back brake if it gets too high and you get Skeret.
- As you get the feel of getting it higher you will discover there is a
balance point (It feels way up there BTW) where blipping the throttle
you can keep the bike on the rear tire even as you shift to 2nd.
- Sometimes it helps to rise off of the seat to get the correct
feel.(Maybe thats just an old dirt bike thing for me) Sometimes stabbing
the clutch will help get the front end up if you are having trouble.
Max is not the easiest bike to wheelie. It is big, Heavy, has a long
wheelbase and is quite a dangerous projectile. My stock max wouldnt
wheelie well at all until I put the pipe on. Since I lowered my front
end it is also more difficult. I can yank the front end way up and ride
it thru first and sometimes into second though. I cant do those 70MPH
Tourmaster Wheelies though.
Using Bruce Bowling's Aerodynamic HP Calculator, I ran some numbers on the
Vmax and R-1 regarding the "drag" hp loss from air and rolling resistance. I
assumed a weight difference of 200 lbs, a frontal area difference of 1 sq ft
and coeffecient of drag difference of 0.1 . Here are my findings starting
at 90 mph (which is near the 1/8th mile point from a standing start):
MPH 90 100 110 120 130 140
VMax
Aerodrag 15 20 27 35 44 59
Rolling drag 4 5 7 8 10 13
-------------------------------------------------------
Total loss (hp) 19 25 34 43 54 73
R-1
Aerodrag 10 13 18 23 29 37
Rolling drag 3 4 5 6 8 10
-------------------------------------------------------
Total loss (hp) 13 17 23 29 37 47
Difference (hp): 6 8 9 15 17 25
My assumptions for the factors etc may not be dead-on however my table does
illustrate the handicap that we are facing against a smaller more
aerodynamic bike. Measured RWHP or lb/hp is not the only challenge we have
to overcome... taking into account drag loss, at the 1/8th mile we would be
down another 6 hp and near the end of the 1/4 we would be down 15 hp...all
the more reason for the big bore kit ; )
cheers, Terry
Home
