Max Maintenance

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Oil Delivery- Justin Lassy

Just wanted to pass on some information that I heard about through PCW Racing in relation to the V-Max oiling system. There are a couple of problem areas that can be helped with little effort.

First problem area occurs when changing oil. When all the oil has been drained out of the motor, then refilled, the oil passage ways won't be refilled until the motor has run for a bit (32 seconds, according to PCW). To avoid the possibility of causing engine damage due to lack of oil in the pump and passage ways, remove your sparkplugs and turn the motor over in 5th gear for a while. This will help prime the pump and fill passage ways. Also, when you go to start your motor, just let it idle, don't rev it right off...let the new oil flow to all the motor parts.

Second problem. If anybody has ever had their oil pan off, they saw a bunch of metal plumbing...all these are oil feed lines. One portion is of concern....there is a feed line that comes off up near the oil filter then eventualy splits off into four smaller tubes. (all of this tubing is removeable, and is simply held in by the oil pan and o-rings). Almost every time I have had a V-Max motor apart, an orange o-ring has been partially blown out of this plumbing. This means poor oil pressure or at least less than it ought to be. One of the motors had a blown transmission, the other had a *massive* rod failure (had to replace a couple of rods, cases, etc...a $5.5k repair). PCW has found a special seal made by Kawasaki to help rectify this problem. I have the part on order and will report how it works as soon as I get a chance.

More info from Justin:

The part is a Kawasaki o-ring.  PN:  92055-077 I'm pretty sure it is from a zx-750 turbo, used to seal the oil pan to the bottom of the cases.

I did this setup in my 94, which wouldn't hold one of those orange o-rings for longer than 1000 miles.  Funny, my 85 w/ 20k on it has never blown this o-ring out.  At any rate, the o-ring fits very snugly, in fact, with the new o-ring, you need to count on the rubber dampners on that right angle of pipe pushing against the oil pan to keep it all together.  I've been monitoring this new o-ring w/ an oil pressure gauge (which is how I first noticed the problem on my own vmax (should have just checked it earlier, I've seen it so many times) ).  Only have about 1k on this experiment, but it seems to be working fine.  Sorry I can't give you more info.

As a note, there is some concern re the 077 Kawi ring. It has been suggested that the Kaw 92055-1147 oval-ring might be a better solution. For a full discussion on this issue plse visit Yamaha Vmax & Venture 1 Oil delivery

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Winter Storage

From: Ron Miller ([email protected])
Newsgroup: rec.motorcycles
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 94 12:32:09 EST
Subject: Ron's Winter Storage List

Modified for Mr. Max

Updated 11/8/93 Ron's Encyclopedia of Motorcycle Storage

The following list applies only for "Winter" storage. For multi-year storage, more must be done.

MATERIAL REQUIRED:

PROCEDURE:

  1. Wash & wax it. (Makes you more likely to want to ride it later though that usually isn't a problem..... :-)
  2. Run it around enough to get it hot. This burns off the wash water and will warm up the motor oil nicely. Going to the gas station for a fillup across town should do. Fill the gas tank with highest quality gas you can find.
  3. Return to storage/work site. (Try to store it indoors. Outdoor storage is the pits. Rent a U-Store-It if necessary. If outside is unavoidable, use a breathable cover vs. plastic or vinyl. )
  4. Drain the gas from the carb bowls. (the drain screws are on the back lower right of each carb.)
  5. Top off the tank. Additionally, add STABIL gasoline stabilizer to the tank then turn on the ignition key to pump the "stabalized" gas back into the carbs. Then drain them again....why? because all the gas residue is NOT removed when draining so might as well leave stabalized gas behind! This is the single most important step in the whole list! This determines whether the bike will start next time or not. Clean motor oil doesn't matter if the darn thing can't be made to run!
  6. Change the oil and filter while warm. (Used oil has some acids formed in it. Water too. Fresh oil good. Used oil bad.)
  7. Put a teaspoon or so of 2-stroke oil (or Marvel Mystery Oil) in each cylinder via the sparkplug hole. (Clean the area around the plug of grit/sand/mung before taking out the plug. A shot of compressed air into the skall hole at the side of each cylinder will work). I usually use Simple Green or GUNK on the spark plugs with the wires removed and heavy rinse during the wash to clean this stuff up. Some folks use compressed air. Be careful, a piece of sand under a valve could cause it to burn later.)
  8. I use a section of clear tubing to suck up some oil from the container and then blow it into the cylinder. Yes, by mouth. (don't pull the oil very far up the tubing!) Marvel Oil tastes much better than 2 stroke oil. Wintergreen, yum! ) Turn the engine over a couple of times to distribute the oil inside the engine cylinder. (Works better when plugs are out and this step goes before removing battery) Caution: Make sure that the plugs are grounded and able to spark or damage to the ignition box may occur...this = big $$$

    Optionally, instead of blowing oil into the cylinders directly, spray Engine Oil Fog into the carburetor intakes when the engine is running.

  9. Reinstall plugs loosely. Leave plug wires routed loosely. (You should consider having new plugs available for next year.)
  10. Remove the battery to a place where you will remember to trickle-charge it at least monthly. (recording when you've charged it on a piece of paper near the battery will help you remember how neglectful you're being :-)
  11. Even if you don't care about the battery, remove it. If it freezes while the battery is discharged, the case will crack and spill acid on your frame.
  12. Inflate the tires about 5 psi over spec **OR** better yet, block the bike up so there is no weight on the wheels.
  13. Change the brake fluid. It's easy and can prevent corrosion which could result in sticking/dragging brakes later. (This should be an semi-annual event regardless of storage.)
  14. Wipe down the fork legs with Marvel oil and leave enough to keep the fork seals moist.
  15. Lube the suspension joints. Do other lube jobs if you are so inclined. (cables, pivots, etc.)
  16. Put some kind of note to yourself on speedo that says: · Battery Removed · Spark Plugs · Tire pressure to remind yourself what you'll need to do to go riding.
  17. While bike is in storage, try to operate controls occasionally. (Clutch, brakes) If bike has weight on tires, try to roll the bike to a different tire position occasionally.

A detailed procedure can be found here.

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