Model Car List
57 Chevy Project

Alright, here we go�� Fig #10 and Fig #11 show most of the parts used and replicated. You can see the original "solid" 4-Link and Wheelie bar molded kit part on the top, then one that I cut up to use as templates for the new metal parts. Under that is the New Housing mount that I made by sandwiching 3 pieces of .040 styrene together, You can use the original part and re-work it the same way, but I was thinking in a different direction at first (that did not work) and had already made these. The rest of the pieces are Brass and Aluminum tubing and some Aluminum sheet that I will make the bottom part of the new working wheelie bar set up.

First off, I glued the rear end together, when dry test fit with the chassis placed in the body. Depending on your donor kit the rearend might be to wide, narrow or mabey perfect in this build. If it is perfect read ahead, if not follow along. The rear end from the Firebird was to narrow (the tires set to far in with better than 1/8"+ gap), the tighter and closer you can get to the inside of the fender without touching the more realistic it will look. I know, the racecars might have 4 inches or better clearance between the tire and wheel well, but this is a streetcar and it is different. I began by cutting the axles off at the pumpkin (the big part in the middle for the automotive challenged) just where they protrude, then made another cut just behind the molded in brake calipers. Because I want a working 4-link set up on the car and I have to add more material to widen the rear, I decided to make the 4-link a true floater set up as well (the 4-link mounts to a rotating collar around the axle housing and can not bind up the rearend because it rotates). I�m going to glue in brass rod as attachment points for the floater extension piece. Drill completely through the rearend housing with a bit the same diameter as the brass rod used for the pins (I�m using the same rod for this as the 4-link bars), make sure this is a level and centered hole or it will throw the whole rearend off. Then I drilled into the axle housing, again centered, on the removed outer flanges and rear brake parts (see Fig #12 and Fig #13). I will not be replacing the brakes as they look good enough on a car sitting as low as this one will, plus with the 4-link, frame and tires in the way, it won�t be seen to well anyway. I did however drill a small hole in the middle of the caliper of each side for the brake lines that will come later. It is easier to do it now rather than when it is all together.

Now that the locator pins are in place lets start the 4-link. Again, I�m sorry that I don�t have the diameters for what I�m using, but if you use the kit supplied parts as a gauge you�ll be on the same track as me. I had problems with my first attempt on this, but we all learn from mistakes and this time for the better! You can use the parts from the kits 4-link, you will just have to separate all the components with a #11 X-Acto blade, the parts not used will be used for templates. I started by removing the forward locating bars at the housing mount, the removed the wheelie bars also leaving only the housing mount. Now, look to see where the molded in parts were attached, you will need to drill or Dremel a hole the diameter of the aluminum tubing that will be used for the 4-link rotating points. Start out cutting 8 pieces of alum. tubing (inside dia of 1/16" outside about 3/16") about 3/16" long. Then 8 pieces of Brass tubing (1/16" outside dia) at 1/8" long, this tubing should be able to slide into the alum. tubing and rotate freely. You can look at Fig #17 to get a feel for where to drill and what it will end up looking like. You want to make sure that at least half of the aluminum tubing is exposed on both the top and bottom. After test fitting in the drilled out housing mount, make sure it is a tight fit, but not so tight that it warps or disfigures the plastic while sliding it in. Now using super glue gel, affix the tubing to the housing mount. I then took a fine, flat micro file and filed the tubing down flush with the housing mount. After doing this on both mounts and getting the 4 pieces of aluminum tubing in place and filed flush, you need to make a vertical notch (See Fig #14 for a diagram). You could do this before gluing but I dropped and lost more parts that way! I used a hobby saw to make my cuts, then went back with a #11 X-Acto blade and the micro file to clean it up. What you want is the slot to be just wide enough for the 1/32" dia. Brass to fit into with out being sloppy side to side. After the cuts are made to the aluminum, get your Brass tubing that you cut earlier and slide them into the aluminum tubing. I let mine stick out a little on either side for handling. You�ll need a drill bit a little larger that the Brass rod now (a size 63 or 64 should work fine). Drill the hole in the brass tubing through the slot in the aluminum tubing, only go through one side of the tubing. You should test fit the brass rod in the hole and make sure it will move, rotate the brass tubing in the aluminum tubing. If you have good rotation and no binding problem continue and do the other three. If you have some binding problems, look to see where they are and correct using the X-Acto or a flat micro file until you get smooth movement. Now, using the removed original 4-link forward locating bars as a template, cut 4 pieces of the 1/32" brass rod about 1/8" or longer that the originals. We will need the little extra for length adjustments and also to mount into the new rotating tubing bushings you just made. Make sure to round off the ends of the rod after cutting and test fit in the hole in the Brass tubing for a proper tight fit. If it fits, then place a small drop of Super Glue Gel on the end of the rod and slide in into the hole. You will need to keep working the part up and down to make sure that any excess glue does not get between the 2 pieces of tubing. I then used a small dia. piece of wire and the runny Super glue to fill the inside of the brass tubing. The small wire will help direct the flow into the brass because if it gets between the brass and alum. it will not be able to be fixed and it wont rotate (experience talking again, but I only allowed it to happen once!). Do the same to the 3 remaining bushings on the housing mount.

Now, we need to do the same thing for the forward mount for the locator bars. Follow the same steps above to it. Make sure to line up and drill where the original parts were molded. DO NOT GLUE THE BRASS RODS TO THE FRONT MOUNTS YET! (see Fig #15, Fig #16 and Fig #17 for examples of the unit)

OK, now that that is done, it�s time to test fit again. With the chassis in the body and your wheels and tires ready, mock the rearend up in place and check the 4-link locator bars for proper length. Mine came out to be 5/8" long for the top rods and 11/16" long for the bottom rods (this is complete length from end to end). If they need cutting down, do it and then test fit again with the front mount this time. Make sure that the wheels are centered in the center of the wheel wells and the tubs. Alright, now this part is up to you, I wanted mine to look like the original parts, so I ended up taking cutting (2) 1/2" long and (2) 9/16" long pieces of the 3/16" dia. Aluminum tubing to use as a cover for the brass locator rods. I also cut off and drilled out the adjusting nuts from the original parts, slid them over the tubing and glued them into place (see FIG #19). Now that the 4-link is ready, we need to make the floater part of the axle.

I started with 2 pieces of the 1/16" dia. Brass tubing then 2 pieces of the 3/16" dia. Aluminum tubing, each one cut the length needed to make the overall width of the rearend correct. My 3^rd member is a nodular 9" Ford unit and the drive shaft input is offset to the right hand side of the chassis. You will need to look at yours and make sure that you compensate for this when cutting the axle extensions (one will have to be longer than the other). Using the Super glue gel, attach the Brass tubing to the Brass locator pin through the housing we installed early on, make sure to look for straightness while doing this. Then I cut 2 pieces of 1/8" O.D. Brass tubing that slips over the aluminum tubing, cut these about 3/16" long. Now you will need to enlarge the housing mount of the 4-link bracket to accept the tubing (just like doing the bars earlier, but no notches or drilling) and super glue into place. Now test fit the 4-link set up again, sliding it on to the axle extensions, making sure it is straight and rotates around the aluminum tubing freely. Now you'll need 2 pieces of Brass tubing to lightly sandwich the new floater set up next to the rearend housing. You will glue this in place after proper test fitting and making the 4-link set-up will rotate freely. Now you can glue the front chassis mounting bracket for the 4-link to the aluminum tube covered brass 4-link rods. Test fit in the chassis again for good measure. All should be good, now you can glue the rear wheel back halves to the rear end assembly. In Fig #21 and Fig #22, you can see where I had to Dremel out some of the frame rails to make room for the lower sitting stance I want for my model. This also will allow for more travel of the suspension for those that don't believe it does in fact work!

BTW, for the record, the picture that I sent in for the Project '57 Pro-Street Page is the look I'm going for, I even found the right wheels in the parts box from a Funny car that match! Check out Fig #20 for the wheels.

Since this is now over 2200 words, I'll let you take a brake, refill the printer and get started on yours while I get started on the shocks and wheelie bars in Lesson 2 "B". If you have any questions please feel free to drop me e-mail at: [email protected]