Model Car List
57 Chevy Project

Continuing on with the engine build up I removed the remaining parts listed in instruction step 1 (# 3, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 & 22) from the parts tree. All these parts have mold lines which must be removed before painting. Again I used a flat and a rounded riffler file to accomplish this. In addition we'll also be working with the generator/bracket (# 15) from the previous lesson. At this time I also drilled the holes on the distributor (# 16) for the ignition wires using a # 75 twist drill. Care needs to be exercised here not to drill at an angle or else you could bore through the surface. I drilled about 1/16 of an inch deep.

Two subassemblies will be built before painting - first the air cleaner unit (# 18, 19 & 20). This assembly is all the same color so build it now to make painting it a simpler task. Also, if you happen have a flaw anywhere on parts # 20 try to position them on part # 19 so that any flaws are not exposed to view. The second assembly is the oil filler tube to the manifold (# 7 & 21). Reference photos show both of these parts to be silver regardless of what the instructions indicate they are.

After my subassemblies are complete I group same color pieces together before painting. Here are my groupings and paints I will be using:
Model Master Metalizer Aluminum - # 3, 7, 21 Model Master Metalizer Magnesium - # 11, 12, 17 Model Master Black Chrome Trim - # 10, 13, 14, 15, 22 Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black - # 16, 18, 19, 20
Many of these parts will require detail painting later, some with additional paints. To avoid brush marks I mounted then painted all these parts with an airbrush. Decide if you want to do this or paint these items by hand. The smaller the part, the less likely brush marks will be noticeable. If you brush paint, at least try to airbrush the air cleaner assembly as this will be the most visible part on the completed engine. Also, when airbrushing, spray metallic paints after solids. If you fail to thoroughly clean your airbrush after painting a metallic color some metallic particles could mix in with a solid color and produce a glittery appearance to your solids. For the Metalizer paints I rarely use the Metalizer Sealer as it makes the surface glossy which I think is unrealistic. Sometimes handling parts these parts will leave traces of Metalizer paint on your fingers but it shouldn't affect the appearance of the part if you have several coats applied to it. Lastly, parts painted with water based acrylic enamels should be allowed to dry at least overnight before handling to avoid fingerprints.

Assembling the engine, these are the parts I detail painted and the sequence in which I added them:
~ Parts 7 & 21 (manifold / oil filler tube) to engine block. ~ Part 4 (oil pan) brush painted oil filter with Tamiya Gloss White, added to engine block. ~ Parts 3 (fuel pump), 10 (starter), 17 (carburetors), 11 & 12 (exhaust manifolds) glued to the engine block. ~ Part 16 (distributor) to the manifold. Be sure this part is well glued and secure.
After adding these parts I brush painted the "Chevrolet" scripts on the valve covers with Model Master Silver Chrome Trim using a size 20/0 brush. Doing this now instead of before adding the main parts lessens the chance of the paint being smudged during handling.

Wiring the engine. The illustration in box C of the instructions (Pro Shop version) show the ignition wires draped down over the valve covers and manifolds which is incorrect. The wires will be run behind the valve covers forward then curving upwards under the exhaust manifolds then through the holes drilled into the block. Uncoil the wire and straighten it by pulling it through your thumb and forefinger while pinching it. Cutting the lengths shown in the instructions will not work since the wires will not be draped over the valve covers. Cut wires 1 and 2 - 2 inches, 3, 4, 5, and 6 - 1 1/2 inches, 7 and 8 - 1 inch. With this I barely had enough wire to make the lengths needed. If you need more wire it is readily available from aftermarket companies or an electronic supply store. I typically use about twice the lengths needed when wiring an engine to make handling and positioning easier. (Considering the cheap cost of wire I was cussing out AMT for not including a few extra inches of it in the kit). Test fit the wires into all of the holes in the distributor cap and the engine block before installing and gluing. Apply the wires using only super glue!

Cut a 5/16 inch length for the "C" wire. Form it into a U shape so that it matches up with the center of the cap and the coil, glue the coil end in first, then the cap end. Do this first or it will be too difficult to add later after the rest of the wires are installed. Next glue the proper wires into the matching holes in the distributor cap. Make sure these are securely mounted and thoroughly dry before bending. Work with the wires starting with the rear of the engine going forward. Bend wires 7 & 8 straight down with your fingers and curve them forward using the bottom of the exhaust manifold to make the second bend forward. Avoid using any tweezers or other tools to make these curves as this may cause an irregular bend or crimp, however for installing the wire end into the engine block you probably will need tweezers. Insert it into the block positioning it so you do not have a lot of wire hanging down below the manifold and trim it if necessary. Keep the curves smooth and the bends looking natural. Next do the same with wires 6 & 5, 3 & 4, and finally 1 & 2. While bending each successive wire try to match it to the curves of the previous wires you installed and keep the distance or the amount of wire hanging below the manifolds even with each other to make it look uniform. Most times after I have all my wires installed I gently press the wires against the engine to eliminate unnatural looking curves and make it appear as though gravity is affecting how the wires are laying as it would on a 1:1 engine. This is most apparent closer to the distributor where the wires would hang before the first bend under the exhaust manifolds. Finally, some touch up painting was needed using Model Master Black Chrome Trim where glue was visible on the wires.

Completing the engine: ~ Brush paint the pulley faces on part # 14 with Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black and the flywheel where part # 15 attaches Silver Chrome Trim then add the fan. Brush paint the generator (part # 15) Model Master Black Chrome Trim. When dry, paint the raised end surface adjacent to the mounting bracket Silver Chrome Trim then position it on part # 14, which has a positive locator to line up the bracket with the engine. Glue the fan belt assembly onto the engine then position the generator mounting bracket end onto the block. ~ Brush the fitting end of part # 22 (the end that attaches behind the manifold) with Silver Chrome Trim. Glue onto engine then position the bottom end alongside the rear of the starter (# 10) next to the bell housing. ~ Mount the air cleaner assembly to the carburetors. Brush the four wing nuts on top with Silver Chrome Trim. ~ Add decals 4 & 5. ~ Brush paint the transmission with two coats of Model Master Steel. Do not paint the bell housing. Try to use a # 1 size natural hair brush which will help eliminate brush strokes, or mask it off well and airbrush if you prefer.

This completes the engine assembly.

-Leon