Model Car List
57 Chevy Project
Box Stock
Instructor: Leon Tefft
Lesson #5
With the body put aside for the paint to cure, I turned my attention to the engine.
First I assembled the engine block halves (parts # 1 & 2) gluing them with Zap-A-Gap superglue. I put the glue on a bit thick so it squeezes out from between the halves when put together, filling the seam lines. When dry, I file it down even with flat and rounded riffler files. The sink marks on the front of the bell housing next to where the oil pan will go can be filled with putty at this point, otherwise I'm leaving it alone as I feel it won't really be noticeable when the model is finished.
Next I glue on parts # 8, 9, 5, and 6. This assembly will be airbrushed with Model Master Chevy Engine Red along with the oil pan (# 4) and the bracket mount on the generator (# 15). I'm painting the oil pan separately to make painting the oil filter easier later on. Note the plans indicate the exhaust manifolds
(#11 & 12) are the same color as the engine but this is not correct. Also, reference photos I have for the 283 c.i. 2x4 engine show the intake manifold (# 7) is bright silver. I put this on temporarily to fit the cylinder heads evenly on the engine block then I removed it before painting the engine.
One more thing to do before painting - drill out the holes in the
block for the ignition wires. The plans recommend a # 76 drill bit, but I used a #75. Angle the drill evenly with the bottom edge of the cylinder heads and drill all the way through. Use a twist or hand drill to do this, not a Dremel or other motorized tool. The high speed of a Dremel will cause enough friction heat to melt the plastic.
If you used any putty on these parts (I didn't) you may need to apply primer before you paint. If you don't, the paint may not cover and color the parts evenly depending on the color of the putty.
Once done, I airbrushed the engine, oil pan, and generator bracket mount with two light coats of Chevy Engine Red followed by three heavy wet coats. If there are any gaps in the seam between the engine halves the heavy paint coats usually fill them in. If there are any gaps that are noticeable I putty them before I continue painting. Also remember to paint the transmission housing, but it is not necessary to paint the transmission itself since this is a different color. I always paint this last because I hold onto the transmission while building up the rest of the engine. The paint will wear off if I paint it now.
Two light coats followed by three heavy coats is usually about right for the effect I want. I apply this paint mixed a little thicker rather than thinner then set it aside for two or three days to thoroughly dry before I handle it to avoid finger imprints. The heavy wet coats leave a smooth, glossy finish. If you want or need more coats of paint on yours go right ahead.
That's if for right now. Leave these parts alone for two or three
days to dry before handling. The next lesson will cover the rest of the engine build up and adding the ignition wiring.
-Leon
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