The goal of this FAQ is to explain fully how you can and actually would be able to do a complete valve replacement on your 2.0lt DSM engine without having to take the head of the block. The technique is so easy and simple that you don't even need an air compressor. You can just do this on your driveway, or in a totally isolated concrete basement with no electrical outlet like my garage.

This technique has been tested on a GVR4, so it should work on all the 1G cars, for the 2G crowds, it should also work with slight variation to what you have to do to remove the crank angle sensors, and other little things having to do with the timing belt assemblies on the 2Gs.

This procedure can be used if you need to replace your leaky valve seals, worn out valve springs, perch or keepers..if you need to replace the valve guide itself or even replace the valve itself then a complete head removal off the block is necessary.
 
 

This is what you are going to need:

1. A block of 2 by 4, preferably one around 3 feet long or so should be enough.
2. An O2 socket (I use the DSM 's O2 socket, other O2 sockets might yield same result).
3. A short length of small rubber hose (2-3 feet is more than enough; small enough to be fished down the plug's hole), or you can also use vinyl/ plastic rope if you have some around.
4. Another person to help you push the block down.
5. A complete set of metric socket and ratchet wrench, torque wrench, box end wrench, screwdrivers, etc...

Lets Start....

Step 1

Began by disassembling the t-belt. Just as if you are prepping for a timing belt job.

If you are unclear of what this take go to the VFAQ and get the instructions from there.

Step 2

Don't put any of the belts on yet, this is where we are going to start doing our work.

Make sure that all the valves are still on the closed position.  Turn the crankshaft so that the piston on the cylinder where you want to do the work on is at the bottom of the cycle. Fished the rubber hose/ rope in there, fish in a good length so you'll have enough in there. Turn the crankshaft again so that the piston in that cylinder goes up and compress the rubber hose to provide support for the valve. This is necessary so that the valve won't drop down into the cylinder when you take of the keepers on the valve stem.

Step 3

Open the valve cover if you haven't already...locate the bad valve. If its on the intake side, then proceed to take off the intake camshaft. If its on the exhaust side then proceed to take off the exhaust camshaft. You'll need to take out those bearing caps on top of the camshaft and just take the whole shaft up with the sprocket still attached at the end. If you are doing the intake shaft, remember to take out the crank angle sensor first. (2G crowd, watch out you are on your own here, as I haven't done this on a 2G and cant tell you what to do)

Step 4

After you removed the camshaft, it is a good idea to also remove all 8 rockers  (keep them in the same lineup!), and use a very clean rag to cover the area outside of the work/ operation area. If you don't do this, something might go flying down through the various oil passage holes to the crankcase (if you are lucky or get snagged in the passage). So make sure you don't have to do more unnecessary work by covering as much as possible of the area around the valve that you are going to be working on.

Step 5

Get a tweezers or a little screwdriver and dab some grease on the tip. We are going to use this to take out the keepers.

Take the O2 socket and put it on top of the spring perch. Face the opening on the socket towards you.

Take the 2 by 4 and place it perpendicular to the head, we are going to use the block for leverage. Put one end of the block on the top of the firewall and the other on top of the O2 socket. Now your friend need to climb up to the engine bay and put his weight on the block. This action will push down on the O2 socket and push down the top perch down. Use the tweezers/ the small screwdriver with the dabs of grease on it and stick it to the keepers through the opening of the O2 socket. Don't drop it, take it out, and repeat as there are 2 keepers on each valve stem. Afterwards, ask your friend to remove his weight of the block slowly so the spring underneath the perch won't come off flying all over the place.

You are done! With the keepers of the valve stem, you can take out the upper valve spring perch and the spring and replace the seals on the bottom of the assembly. Do that or do whatever else you wanted to do in the first place.

As usual, reverse this simple 5 steps to assemble.
 

Disclaimer:

This procedure works for me and for one other fellow DSMers that had tried it on his DSM. So it is a good and valid method, follow it at your own risk. Your mechanical ability may vary. Please judge your own mechanical ability accordingly. If you are not competent enough to do the job and ruin your engine, don't blame me. Follow it at your own risk.