This page will be dedicated to X body tech tips. There are already separate pages on carburetor choke repair and maintenance tips.
Here, I will eventually write about replacing suspension components, computerized engine controls, ignition tune ups, and what to do if your steering rack goes bad, among other things.
For now, here are some tips on C/V boot replacement.
C/V joints and axle boots: It seems that the axle boots tend to rip and leak grease. Dirt then gets inside the joint and slowly wears it out, or wears out the end of the half shaft which connects the wheels to the transmission. Keep an eye on your axle boots for leaking grease. Otherwise you'll be replacing your c/v joints and/or axles every 70,000-75,000 miles. It is cheap to replace the axle boot ($10), but a new c/v joint or axle can cost $100-$150. This is actually pretty typical for all front wheel drive vehicles.
To replace the boot, you will need to:
-Remove the wheel.
-Remove the hub nut that holds the end of the axle to the steering
knuckle. Use a breaker bar NOT an impact wrench!! The shock will be
transmitted down the driveline!
-Remove the bolt that connects the steering knuckle to the lower control
arm. You should NOT remove the steering knuckle-to-strut bolts or your
wheel alignment will be off later! It is easier to separate the control
arm if you remove the 4 bolts that hold on the stabilizer bar to the
frame of the car. (15mm)
-Pry down with a LARGE prybar to separate the control arm from the
steering knuckle- BE CAREFUL not to damage anything or rip the outer c/v
boot. You may need to stick a screwdriver into the piece of the steering
knuckle where it connects to the ball joint stud in order to spread it
out and make removal of the control arm easier. Be careful not to break
off the end of the screwdriver!
-Pull the steering knuckle out until the end of the axle slips out. If
it won't move you may tap LIGHTLY with a PLASTIC hammer- otherwise you
will transmit the shock through the entire driveline which is BAD.
-Pull the other end of the axle out of the transmission, holding the axle
right where it goes into the transmission.
-Now that you've gotten it out of there, put the c/v joint having the
damaged boot in a vise.
-Get the boot off by putting one end of a screwdriver on the metal
holder around the boot, and then hitting the screwdriver with a hammer.
The metal holder will slip off.
-You will need snap ring pliers to expand the snap ring to release the
axle from the c/v joint
-Clean the joint out with solvent and dry thoroughly.
-Then add new grease to the joint that comes with the c/v boot kit (can
be bought at chain auto stores for $11.00 or so).
-Put the new boot on the axle BEFORE reconnecting the axle to the c/v
joint.
-The axle should slide in and snap into place.
-Slide the metal holder over the c/v joint along with the boot, and clamp
down the little clamp on the other end with pliers.
-Replace the axle in the car. (Reverse the above procedure. You can use
anti-seize on the axle where it slides into the steering knuckle to make
it easier for it to move.
-Use anti-seize on the hub nut threads on the end of the axle.
-When you reconnect the steering knuckle to the lower control arm, you
will need to be sure the ball joint stud indentation is lined up
correctly.