THIS IS WHAT I HAVE DONE TO MY 2CV THUS FAR
AND HOW I DID IT
My 2cv was a shambles when i bought it. In fact it still is. Here is what i have
done to the car since i have gotten it. I haven't done much yet, but this is what i have done
the first thing i did when i got the car was to jack up the fron of the car. this was because
the front wheels were locked(that comes later). when i jacked up the car i noticed that the front
of the car where the engine sat was sagging, so i jacked that up too.
then i removed the fenders which are held on by three bolts. one right in front of the front door, one
on the firewall, and one on the headlight "holderthings". after those were removed, i took off the hood
simply slid off. now i had a clear view of the engine.
next i removed the front doors which are held to the body by two screws on each
hinge and i removed what was left of the top and the trunk lid. i couldn't get the back
doors off because my garage's ceiling was too low, but for those who want to know, they simply slide off in the upwardly direction.
my intent by this point was to remove the body and so i proceded to remove all
of the bolts holding the body to the chassis. this proved interesting since the floor pans were gone.
after having removed all said bolts, i lifted the body from the chassis by running two-by-fours under parts
of the car that i could lift. then i lifted each side with a scissor jack. a rather primitive
means of doing this, but it worked.
i got the body completely off of the car by simply lifting if off and rolling the body off of the car and sitting it on the ground. this is helpful to figure out how the body of the car is suposed
to be. this also keeps the body straight while i figure out what to do next. when i got the body off of the chassis i found that the whole area behind the front suspension arms was eated through by rust.
this means that i need to get a new frame. yuck!!!! them's expensive. about $1200 if you do it right.
one little tidbit is that when i got the car, the engine was siezed and wouldn't turn over.
what i did about this was to fill the crank case with break fluid(it sound weird i know) and let it sit
for a few days. then i pulled out the spark pluggs and sprayed WD40 into the spark plug holes in the cylinders. then i took a
large screw driver and forced the flywheel around untill i could get the engine to turn over with the hand crank. it was alot of work and a royal pain in the buttox, but it got the job done. the compression was still good to my suprise so i don't have to do a ring job but i do need a variety gaskets.
the car needs new rocker panels, a new top, new fenders, new floor pans,
break lines, fuel line, and steering column (i had to saw the old one in half to get it off). i can get the parts form Ben Morse, but then i have the problem of welding the parts on and repairing the damage done by the wonderful world of rust.
i have stumbled onto a problem. my familly is moving to California and i have to stay behind in Ohio and i now need to find a place to store my car.
i have to find out what to do. i have two choices:find a place to store it or part the car out. i don't want to do the latter but if i have to i will.
anyone who might be interested may want to consider either getting in contact with me or telling me what i can do. perhaps offer a few other choices.
(10-09-97)
i found a place to keep and work on the 2cv. i am aloud to use my fiance's barn to store the car and there is a work area and elecricity. cool settup.
information about the engine:
engine type A79/1 M28/1 M28
cylinder capacity(cc) 435 602 602
max. horse power 23.6@6750rpm 28@5750rpm 31@5750rpm
max. valve in Nm 28.5@4000rpm 39.2@3500rpm 41.2@4750rpm
number and arrangement of cylinders: 2-boxer
compression ratio 8.5:1 8.5:1 9:1
inlet valve open 68.5x59 74x70 74x70
inlet valve closed
exhaust valve open
exhaust valve closed
play of valve in mm
inlet (cold) 0.15-0.20 0.15-0.20 0.15-0.20
Engine lubrication system:
oil pump rotorpump
engine oil SAE 10W-50
and oil pan capacity in quarts 2.32(2CV4) 2.43(2CV6)
Fuel system:
carburator type single point single point register
make and number SOLEX 34 PCIS SOLEX 34 PCIS SOLEX 26/35 CSIC/SOLEX
choke manual
fuel pump Membraan
fuel tank capacity 6.6
in gallons
Ignition system:
trademark and type of bobine Ducellier 2769/Femsa BC12-4
trademark current regulator Ducellier
light gap in mm 0.40 +/- 0.05mm
angle of contact 109 +/- 3
turn direction of rotor left (from the front)
Transmission:
ratio of transmission 1e 6.96 5.21 5.75
2e 3.56 2.66 2.94
3e 2.13 1.79 1.92
4e 1.47 1.31 1.35
reverse 6.69 5.21 5.75
differential ratio
of transmission 4.125(8/33) 4.125(8/33) 3.875(
gear box capacity in dm3 0.9 0.9 0.9
type of oil SAE 80 EP
Spark Plugs:
AC 42F
Bosch W 255 T1
Champion L85
Eyquem 755
Marchal 35
Marelli CW 7 N BT
Electrode gap=0.65-0.75 mm
Breaks:
separate break system front and rear
hydrolic break fluid Lockhead 55(SAE 70R3)
Total LHM(EP 80W/85W-TOTAL EP 80)
Proportions:
full length x width 384 x 148 384 x 148 390.5 x 1
mass in kg 560 560 600
spare parts in the U.S.A
French Parts Service
P.O. Box 381
Bremerton, Washington 98310
USA
voice: 1-(360)373-8520
fax: 1-(360)373-8461
ben, the guy who runs the place, is a good source of parts and helpfull advice as you are trying to restore you 2cv. they carry a catalogue with fairly reasonable prices
for a great variety of 2cv parts. very helpful.
The French Revolution
807-809 Capitol Court
Austin,Texas 78756-2701
USA
phone: 1(800)270-5070
phone: 1(512)453-5050
fax: 1(512)453-0828
e-mail:[email protected]
web: http://www.frenchrev.com
these people are located in texas and may be helpful in finding engine parts and maintence items. they do not carry a catalogue
and are alittle harder to get a hold of.
return to my home page
if you have any suggestions or any helpful info on where
to find parts and things like that, please e-mail me.
� 1997 
[email protected]
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