Hi there Cem.
You wanted know what could be done to improve the performance of your 1996 SX i.e.
Forget about installing a turbo engine, becuase you would need so may parts it would be cheaper and quicker to sell your car and buy a turbo.
But your engine can be tuned, what concerns me, is the availability of parts for tunning in Turkey.
Option A: K&N filter + Sports exhaust system = aprox 5-10 BHP more depending on what fuel injection system your car runs, possible a chip aswell.
Option B: find a 1600 cc engine from a fiat tipo, is a straight swap, dont forget to obtain the control box for the fuel injection aswell, this engine gives 90 bhp, with a sports airfilter and a sports exhaust system 100 bhp. thats the easiest solution.
In order to help you, I need to know if your car is fitted with monopoint fuel injection or multipoint fuel injection, and if your is fitted with a catalitic converter.
Regards Joe
Hola Jose
You wanted to know if it was possible to fit a Digital instrument dash to your Uno, which was available as an option, yes it possible, but it requires a lot of rewiring, an difirent sensors,
another option is obtain the wiring loom from another Uno in a Breakers yard (Desguace). Either way there is a lot work involved, good luck.
Joe Rubido
Forum 21/9/98 to 7/2/99
Any letters you send to to me which, are not personal will be posted here so other people can reply.
Your site is brilliant, just what the doctor ordered.!!!!
I Wonder if you can help, i have an '89 uno turbo antiskid, and I am looking for a white dial kit. My local accessory shop has been unable to locate one for me, have you any suggestions?
As soon as I have some pictures of my car I shall e-mail them over to you.
Kindest Regards,
Neil [email protected]
FIAT UNO TURBO.........!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Never have I known such a car that befits the above......!!!!!!! Just changed the clucth ...what a bitch......every time I change the bloody thing (on different uno's) I come across different problems......!!!!!!
Nope still haven't modden mine anymore....... apart from clifford alarm...expensive piece of shit ....(mk2,Radius r1, yoko's now,magnex...etc..) me want a hybrid....!!!
Alright mate, I've got a MK2 and I'm finding that the engine will stall sometimes when I stick it into neutral when stopping, e.g. at the traffic lights. It also seems to idle a bit rough. The car is completely standard. Because you sound very experienced with turbos, I was wondering if you assist me. I am also looking for a garage where I can take my car and get it tuned and looked over...do u know anywhere around north London. I use selina 20k engine oil, is this any good. Can you help...I would be very grateful if you could.
Thanks...mario
Be not tempted to completely remove you Air Filter to improve turbo sound or engine power. Always have some kind of Air-cleaner installed, and keep it in working condition. Otherwise the engine will suffer Dust-Damage , thats dust and very small sand particles getting into the cylinder (and into the oil) and causeing excessive wear on piston-rings and cylinder wall.
You can take 2 intercoolers and weld them together to be one long intercooler. Thus the air will be cooler and you can go a little higher on your turboboost. Find a company thats into air-conditioning, they often have the equipement to do aluminum-welding.
To increase traveling-topspeed on the AUTOBAHN, I learned that the 5th gear is located on the outside of the gearbox, not inside like the others, and could be easily acessed and replaced by a longer gear. So you wouldn�t have to burn the engine at 6800 rev�s to keep up with the TDi�s.
When changing the clutch, why not throw in a new crankshaft sealing ring? They don�t get better with age, especially if your Flywheel is getting hot every now and then, and I really hated the feeling of my brand new clutch giving in after only 6 weeks of moderate use.
My cylinderhead has a crack, can I put a �88 cylinderhead on a �91 1301ccm engine with catalytic converter, or does it mess up the compression ratio (1:8 compared to 1:7.7)? While the engine is taken apart, are there any not-so-expensive modifications I should do now?
Joe wrote that the 1.4l turbos have a gearbox derived from the Tipo. Does this mean a gearbox from a wrecked Tipo would fit into my Uno, and snap right on to the old 1301ccm Block? or could this be done with only small modifikations?
(places of interest) An Aviation-museeum? I just learned there how a Jet-engine works and what an afterburner really is and does. It�s a really big, completly empty, 4 feet short exhaust pipe in which they simlpy inject massive amounts of fuel into the hot exhaust gas of the jet engine so it explodes and gives this extra kick that we will probably need nitrous injection to achive in our uno�s.
I have a �92 MKII 1372cc, Stock version, the only mod I�ve done is to remove the CAT.
I wonder, what should the oil pressure be in normal driving? Couse my oil pressure meter never exceed�s 4bar and hangs just below 2bar at idle. I�s that OK or is my engine crashin??? The Timing Belt has been recently changed but it�s driven 99.000km. All I want to do is to be able to run my tiny monster with low cost but some drivin pleasure. Maybe I�ll get an aftermarket Exhaust system, a better air filter (K & N is what by the way??) and perhaps 185/50/14 tyres as well as Chrome wheels (the light alloy is not as attractive). But anyways hope U and I may continue drivin these monsters and enjoy it...
Cheers
Keep up the good work with the page
George McEwan
(Way down in New Zealand)
Regards reuben
Can anyone tell me where to buy bodykits to the Uno Turbo Mk2???
My name is Cem. I live in �stanbul / Turkey. I've got a 1996 Uno SX ie (TOFA� factory made it with FIAT licance in Turkey). I'm imagine that tune my car, but I don't know what should I do first. I think first of all I should buy a good conditioned uno turbo engine. But I don't know where to find (my car's original engine is 1400 i)
Thanks for your help
Hi guys. This is Reuben here. Howzit going?.Not too good this side.When my 96 Uno was 3 months old I dicovered a problem. On very hot days the car would run very well and suddenly just start jerking , loose revs followed by uneven idling and then die altoghether.When left for about 10-15 minutes it would come right only to run for a few kms before repeating the whole scenario all over again. When this happened the car which was under warranty was taken to the dealer who replaced the fuel system relays?. The car seemed ok untill the next very hot day.The hotter the day the longer the waiting period for it to come right and the shorter the distance it would run before it would cut out. This had a tendency to happen round midday and never in the mornings.Puzzled the dealer once again replaced a "burnt " relay and the problem was solved untill the next scorching day.By now it was decided to replace the fuel pump and it must be said that after each ordeal the fuel filter and the inline filter was replaced as well as the airfilter.The fuel pressure and co settings were also checked.The car had not even covered 30 kms with the new pump when the whole experience had to be relived again.Next the computer ( the part above the airflowmeter ) was replaced and the problem seemed solved .The car has been running well for almost a year now and ive gone on and raised the boost to 1 bar.Bosch super 4 plugs and a K&N conical filter was fitted.the fuel mixture was reset and that was it.After about 96 000 kms the cylinderhead gasket started leaking water on the one end and it seemed that it had hardenned.this was replaced and everything seemed fine.
For a couple of months ive been ahappy owner of a mk2 turbo ie untill last week when, youve guessed it!! ive had to relive the whole story again.This is the only hassle about this car and ive had no mechanical problems.Apart from the usual brake pads anti rollbar bushes and control arms I havent had to spend any real money on its upkeep. It has now done 100 000kms and still looks as if it had just come of the showroom floor.The car has now been to the Ferrari Masserati agents who could not find any fault but as soon as i drive it the problem reoccurs.I will have to take it back to the fiat dealer to sort out and although I like to do some things myself im afraid this one is a bit of a problem.
This is a well cared for car and has had all its specified maintanance carried out either by myself or the local Fiat dealer.It is also the 2nd turbo ie that ive owned. The first one had covered 210 000 kms trouble free since new before ive traded it for this one .
Any advice out there? Has anybody had the same experience ?
Mail me at : [email protected]
Regards Reuben.
Sorry it has taken me so long to answer your email, I have now written an article on how to raise the boost with pictures , and sent to hadders, who no doubt will shortly put it up on the page.
You have apoint with reference to the over boost switch, but as far as I am aware there isnt a supplier who make adjustable switches with same thread at a reasonable cost. also taking into account that the standard turbo in the MK1 Uno isnt big enough to maintain boost constant thoughout the rev range, it isnt imperative I beleive, but you should make sure after the mod is done that you dont exceed 1 Bar boost, all that is needed is to keep and eye on the boost gauge.
One point, with reference to the overboost switch, on some of the Mk2 uno turbos, i have seen that the switch is adjustable, but when i ordered a replacement through fiat to see if they supplied now adjustable, it arrived as a non adjustable unit.
With reference to upgrading the brakes, Yes certain things can be done, That will be next article. in the meantime i will give you a few recomendations.
Purchase Performance brake pads for the front, I recomend Ferodo DS2000,they work reasonably well from cold, and can take more heat before fading, also recomended is that you fit braided brakeline hoses. Do not fit performance brake pads to the rear, as they do not do a great deal of work, and also you will find that the car might roll on a hill after you have parked it, as the pads cool down.
Remove the metal shields front and rear, this helps keep the temperature down on the brakes,especially if you still run 13 inch wheels.
lastly even though the modifications mentioned above do improve the brakes, because of the linkage, there is a certain degree of movement lost as a result of all joints in the linkage. and the pedal feel is not as good at it should be. There is a cheap way of improving the brakes further, This involves searching in a scrapyard for a Fiat Croma or a Lancia Thema, and getting the front calipers of them as long are not the turbo models, the calipers on these models have slightly larger pistons and use the same pads as the uno, they are a straight swap, and increase thae clamping force on the pads by virtue of the larger diameter pistons.
I hope this helps
Regards
Joe Rubido
I own an H-reg Mk.II Uno, which I've had from new. The car has, in the past 2 years, started costing me more money (head gasket, manifold, front disks), and I've only just gone through 50k miles. So - this year I started thinking of upgrading rather than just replacing parts - this started with my front disks (replaced with Tar-Ox grooved disks)and pads (Tar-ox). I actually found this to be cheaper than regular Fiat parts, especially when I bought everything via my local Fiat garage in Windsor (they know me so well there!).
OK, so the next thing I am looking at is wheels. Last time I had new tyres put on (front as usual), I found that at least two of the wheels I have are no longer completely circular. I therefore have a good excuse to change and would like to take the opportunity to put more rubber on the road (I have the stock 175/60/13's on there for now) and wonder how far I can go before I would need to modify the arches - is 195 too far ?
Anyone have practical experience of how far I can go on the standard body ? (I have no interest in dropping the suspension so far).
I'd love to hear from other Uno Turbo owners in the UK who have modified their cars in one way or another - now that I have better (in theory) brakes and hope to have more rubber to stick me down, I'd like to look at what else I can do to improve performance without altering the outward appearance of the car too drastically.
The exhaust will probably be next to go, but again I'm not looking for something to wake the neighbours!!!
Hope to hear from some of you soon!
Craig
[email protected]
Fellow UNO TURBO fans with a whole lot of knowledge, please help I`m desperate. My much loved Uno Turbo (1301cc) has developed a real big problem. I am told it`s the ECU but need some advice.
Problem 1: Car very rarely starts but used to start on the button. Probable cause: After changing the Battery, Plugs, leads, Dizzy cap & Rotor arm just to make sure of a good spark, I've come to the conclusion that the cylinders are being flooded with petrol as the spark plugs 'drip' with fuel after a good try at starting. The only realistic thing I can think of and have been told by the RAC technical dept. is that the ECU is Knackered ???????....but this leads to problem 2:
Problem 2: The oil is being quite badly contaminated with fuel. Probable cause: After trying to start the bitch :), The cylinders get nearly filled with fuel and as I don't try to start it again for a few days, the petrol seeps past the piston rings and therefore gets into the oil ?????. When I do get it to start, it runs fine for about 3 minutes, then the oil starts coming out of the dipstick hole and the oil filler.
If you have had this prob or may have new insight as to what could cause me this grief, please don't keep it to yourself as I am desperate to get my baby back on the road.
Thanx Zapp
Thanks R. Myers
I have checked your webpage and the only thing i can say is ABOUT TIME we get a proper page on these wonderfull machines, the Uno Turbo's.
Im in South Africa and have bought my uno turbo MK2 about 4 months ago and have had great fun with it, its still factory standard boost, but ive done a couple of mods, like K&N filter and a removal of the cooling fan for the injectors.
But my problem right now is that my car has started giving off a "white" smoke when i idle the car after driving just before switching it off. This happens NOT all the time, and i can never predict when it will happen next, it can go on fine for weeks and then one day it will smoke. It doesnt smoke when i drive and the car feels fine like always, but when i get home and sit idling it for about 1 minute thats when it will start giving off a white smoke. According to the Uno owners manual, White smoke means a faulty brake booster, do you think this could be the problem and how could it be related one thing to another.
My friend is also a proud owner of another MK2 and he complains about the same problem at irregular intervals, and his car is actually stock standard, not even a K&N.
Can you give us some advice, have you heard of this problem????? Please Help
Paul
Johannesburg, South Africa
With reference to the direct induction air filter.
1.we used silicone sealant to glue the alloy ring on to the airflow meter
2.once the silicone has set which take at least a few hours, preferably overnight at least, you clamp the filter on to the alloy ring
3.it is a large filterand it could possibly foul against the battery or the underside of the bonnet.
4.We used to loosen the battery clamp and slide the battery as far it would go to the right in order to gain some space near the airflow meter
5.it`s also posible it could touch the under bonnet sound deadning felt, we also used to remove it, since the cars had quite a few years of age, in some cases the oil and water stains from possible leaks would deteriorate it, plus removing means you gain a bit more space under the bonnet, and it disipates the heat a bit better, remember high under bonnet temperatures are not good for power.
6.Ideally, you should improve the cold airflow to the engine bay, there are various things you can do to achieve this: a) Remove the rubber covers from behind the headlamps, b) take a close look at the front grille, you will see that only the centre slats in front of the radiator a perforated, get a drill and with care patience open up the slats to right, the same side the airflow meter is. c) remove the right headlamp, use a hole cutting tool like the one used to make the holes on the wings for the aerials, and make several holes behind the headlamp and afterwards refit the headlamp, the method I mention above is the most effective, but there is an easier method bt perhaps not so effective, which involves purchasing some aluminium flexible tubing and picking cold air from under the engine behind the bumper and directing to the air filter, holding in place with tie raps, this is what K&N ussualy supply you with in their K&N 57i kits, this tubing is normally available from most spares shops, and is what manufacturers use to pick up hot air from the exhaust manifold to the airfilter box.
I hope this helps, by the way I am looking for some photoghraphs I have from magazines of the different modified components for the uno, with the idea of doing articles on how to upgrade the diffrent aspects of the car, unfortunately my current work load dosnt allow me to do this, but as soon as I can, i will send to you.
Regards Joe
http://members.theglobe.com/patrickbeal/
Let me know if you enjoy it.
Regards, Patrick Beal
What I really wanted to know is how easy would it be to fit an uno turbo engine and box into a 88, Fiat Panda 1000s . As I have heard that some time ago there was a 1500 single cam fiat engine which someone fitted to a panda for competition.
Things like will it fit into the orginal engine mounts, would the driveshafts have to be change what would need to be done about the wiring loom, and stuff like that
thanks
Russell Myers
I own a 91 Fiat Uno turbo and i live in sunny South africa The car is in good condition except for a freshly slipping clutch(will replace it soon) The car is standard as far as i know except for a k&n air filter and a free flow exhaust Now for the questions!!
1) Can a slipping clutch cause the engine management to think that less load is on the engine and therefore cause it to produce less power(i noticed that when the clutch slips the revs increase but the boost guage does not) This confuses me i dont see how this is possible
2) My car will not boost in first gear(at least no boost is shown on the boost guage) is this right or is something wrong?
3) Is the boost supposed to go into the red on the boost guage(it shows about 0.8 bar) is this normal?
4) I have heard of people bending the wastegate actuator further away from the turbo to increase boost Is this true?
5) How can i decrease the lag and get the turbo to boost at lower rpms?
Thank you for any help on the above questions
Andrew
ps This page is GREAT and so are Uno Turbos
Cheers
Mario
EMAIL: [email protected]
ps...Keep the site going
regards Reuben
Hard decision you have to make between buying an Uno Turbo and a strada Abarth, In standard form I believe the strada to be better a car, from a drivers point of view, the suspension package was tuned with handling in mind, it has decent bucket seats, and there is no denying that a 2000cc twin cam engine has bags of torque low down and it develops 130bhp. against it is the fact that spares and parts will be harder to locate in never sold in great numbers and its has been longer out of production than the Uno.
The strada will be the more coveted car because of the Abarth badge and its rarity, but the Uno is a great package and with modifications you can turn it a real road missile, when you take in to consideration that by raising the boost to 1 bar alone the car will producing the about 120 bhp to 130bhp depending on ambient temperature and it weighs a lot less than the Strada, the performance of the Uno will be greater. the next step would be to modify the suspension in order to improve the handling, this is quite easy to do by just replacing the springs and dampers with after market ones.
I gather that you have already read the buyers guide in Hadders page, concerning how to determine if the engine on the uno is in good condition, you have to carry out all the usual checks;
1.Start the car from cold and check for abnormal noises and smooth running, check for smoke from the exhaust, if when you rev the engine it belches out clouds of white smoke it would indicate that the turbo has had it.
2.Drive the car, preferably from cold, and check again for excess smoke, when you accelerate the boost gauge should show that turbo starts to develop boost from 2000 rpm upwards and it should do so with out any whining noises, etc
3.Once the engine is warm check that the boost reaches at least 0.5 bar boost in 4th and 5th gears and that the clutch doesn't slip, also check for possible knocking noises etc as you would do in any other engine.
4.Check that the gearbox works correctly and doesn't crunch in to any gear.
To be quite honest if the car has been looked after and serviced regularly there should not be anything wrong in a major way, its quite possible that the cam carrier gasket leaks oil and that the valve guides might be a bit worn,but thats to be be expected in an engine thats covered 150.000 kms.
To be quite hones you will have to check out both cars an choose the one that you like the most, bearing in mind the condition of each and go from there.
Good luck and I hope this of help to you.
Regards Joe Rubido
Last updated : 9 February 1999
Home