GR5 2002 Trip Report

Veere, Netherlands, 12 June 2002

Hi Richard, Well we are now having a rest day after walking six days through Holland (115 kms). Everything worked well. No chaffing, some sore spots on my heels that could have become blisters but went away. Barbara is coasting along really well. It is hard work walking on the cement, asphalt roads and bike paths. We stuck exactly to our plan, staying at all the campings we booking. The campings are all excellent. It is off-season so we had nice quiet evenings. The evening in Goedereede at the "Goud en Leuw" hotel was very romantic and we have good memories of our talks together about this place when we first met. There were a few surprises with the path markings. Four on the first day was frustrating. Two were due to pipe laying, one due to huge freeway works and the other which I knew about from my previous trip is still not clearly marked. The weather has been mostly overcast with light rain on a few days and heavy showers on the last two days. The first was too quick for us to get our waterproof trousers on and too heavy for the gaiters (which worked well on the other days, thank you Heather) so we got wet socks and had to change them when we got some shelter under a bridge. The last day, it bucketed down just as we were finishing lunch. We managed to get our gear on and our backpacks covered just in time. The backpack covers have come in really useful. Most days we manage to reach a supermarket after we reach the camping and buy enough to eat for dinner and then for breakfast and lunch the next day. It costs about 10 euro per day for us to camp and another 10 euro per day for food. We have had quite a few nice treats. As you know it is most unlikely that we will starve. Having the stove is a great asset. We find a nice spot usually overlooking the canals or sea and eat lunch and make a cup of tea or coffee. We are usually at our destination by mid-afternoon and are not exhausted. We sleep really well. The extra weight of the inflating thermorests is worth it. Today we have a rest day with friends of Barbara and tomorrow we start walking section 2 in Flanders. Hopefully we will see more sunshine. Having the tent and knowing exactly where we are staying has removed the stress of finding somewhere to sleep at the end of each day. See you soon.

Regards, Mike and Barbara.

La Reid, Thurs 27th June

Hi Richard, Sorry about the delay, but there is a lot of work to do each day, especially since we are camping. We walked from Bergen Op Zoom as per our plans. It rained most of the day . Will we ever see the sun. The camping at Essen was very run down. Arie came and walked with us to Wuustwezel. He even carried our back packs for some of the time. The B&B At "The Old Vicary" was very lush. Our own bedroom and living room. The most fantastic breakfast next morning. The next day to the youth hostel at Zoersac was warm and quite a long day. Next day we walked to Noorderwijk on a very hot +30deg C day. We arrived with blisters and I got chaffing. Linda and Prie and the three boys met us just near the end and were a most welcome sight! Linda brought food for dinner and breakfast. The next day to Averbode was over 32deg C and not much shade. We really suffered. Blisters on all our feet but luckily no chaffing. Camping was hot and uncomfortable. Next day to Diest should have been short (17.5km) but again over 32deg C and with blisters it was agony. Barbara also hurt her leg muscle and we limped into Diest very slowly. Decided to take a rest day to recover. Barbara had a blister that became infected. Next day she went to the doctor to have it treated. We also got some second skin to prevent blisters. Took another rest day and caught the train to the next youth hostel at Domain Bokrijk. We decided to just skip the two days of walking between Diest and Domain Bokrijk. That way we didn't skip behind. Bokrijk - Zutendaal was a nice day. Camping at Zutendaal was superb. Next day to Maastricht was also nice. Last section in the warm sun on cement track beside the Albert Canal almost started new blisters. Next day to the hotel in Kanne? was easy - 11.2 Km in cool breeezes. Got there at 12.00 and had a nice afternoon relaxing over yet more great Belgium beers. We have tried a lot of different beers now. Also discovered Ardenne sausage which tastes very good. We have had some nice restaurant meals and there is such good variety in the supermarkets that we have eaten very well. Next day 19.6 km to Vise was great weather. Caught the train to Liege and stayed in the youth hostel. Had a rest day as well and explored around Liege. Our feet are in good condition again. Everything is working well. Haven't realy taken anything we don't need. After Liege, the flat walking ends and we really start to walk up and down the hills. 23.9 km from Vise to camping at Domain van Wegimont was very pleasant walking. Today Arie joins us to walk for some days. He wants to do some hill walking and get used to his equipment. Walked to La Reid today about 300m ascent, bar far, more than any previous day. We still arrived in good condition and managed to get into the new gite. We have the whole place to ourselves. Tomorrow we have a big day about 30km and 700m of ascent. We are concerned that we don't damage our feet again. We think the combination of long days, flat hard roads without shade on very hot days really took a toll on our feet. Haven't met up with or heard of anyone else doing any significant section of the GR5. The waymarking has been excellent in Belgium. A lot has been done quite recently. We are now in the French speaking part of Belgium and Barbara is out of her comfort zone. We must use French mostly. But we have had no trouble getting what we need. In the hot weather we try to drink as much water as we can, filling our water bottles up a few times each day, mostly by asking people in houses or farms. Everyone has given us water very cheerfully and mostly wish us a pleasant trip. The autograph book is filling with the stamps we collect along the way. Regards, Mike and Barbara.

Barbara's Diary from La Reid to Burrange 28th June 2002 to 12th July 2002

In La Reid we stayed in "Gite d'Etape" rue de l'Eglise .We had not booked and found it closed. Someone pointed us to the house of the owner and we could stay there by ourselves. It was only very recently done up and I think we were only the second people to stay there. Very comfortably!

La Reid - Stavelot

We walked through Spa and then through red/orange coloured forests with little bridges . Beautiful views looking back where we came from and little villages skattered everywhere.

Camping in Stavelot quite expensive and bad sanitair (like stables)Women's shower no hot water! No cover anywhere.

Stavelot- Vielsalm

More forest and an easy 4 to 5 hour walk. Good camping in Vielsalm along the river.

We talk with Arie about ways to make walking easier like: helion balloons for up hill and scooters for down hill and that bus with sherpas that is coming around the corner any minute now!

Lots of fields with blueberries in the forest. Plenty of spots to rest with nice views. More forest and in the open fields birds of prey hover .Arie knows a lot about birds and tells us their names.

Vielsalm -Burg-Reuland

Breakfast with home made blueberry jam from yesterday. After a very cold night we start climbing . When we get to Commanster we buy a rice-tart from a wood stove bakery in an old house and have that for lunch (very rich and too heavy to carry anywhere, Yum!)

The walk is mainly through meadows, a lot of walking on hard surface. When we stop for a snack and get some water from a house (people all ways gladly give us water) we hear that the grand final worldcup soccer is on the television, that is why it is so quiet everywhere!

We stay with family close to Burg Reuland. Arie leaves us and Arnoudt joins us! Also a day off.

Burg Reuland-Tintesmuhle

No backpack. We get taken by car to Tintesmuhle and walk back. Easy walking while we get introduced to the wild flowers and birds by Arnoudt. He also tells us the source of the distinctive smell in the forests, which comes and goes. It is a fungus ('stink zwam' in dutch) a toad stool, a white stem with a green "hat". We learn about the little tjif-tjaf bird high up in the tree. That name because that is what it sounds like. (we hear it every day, it seems the same little bird follows us)

Tintesmuhle-Untereisenbach

Again a day without a back pack, because Arnoudt puts his car in Untereisenbach with our packs and walks towards us with the map to meet us halfway. It pours with rain all day, but that is not too bad in the forest which follows the river Our. The forest after Dasburg (our halfway point,where we meet up with Arnoudt again) has quite steep hills and we are glad not to be carrying our packs.

We stop in " Auberge de la vieille Chapelle" to warm up and dry a little. Arnoudt leaves us at the camping in Untereisenbach, where we are allowed to use a covered area of a caravan where no one is at the moment since it has not stopped raining.A good camping. We have a coffee in the caf� of the camping and are fascinated by the Luxenbourg dialect.

Untereisenbach-Vianden

Quite a heavy, long day with steep climbs and descends.(even though only 20 km)At the start we have to take a path so overgrown that we wonder if we are right. Full of nettles and blackberries. Because of the heavy rain yesterday we come out at the end absolutely soaked from the wet bushes. It was the right way though.Very frustrating since I am always very careful putting on my wet gear, but it did not rain of course.

Thank you Mike for telling me about the last bit where you think you are there but there is still that really steep high climb. It seems not too bad, if you know before hand. The reward though is also always there: What a view on the Castle of Vianden!

We also passed an artificial Lake before, high up on the hill.

Vianden is a fairytale village, cream houses in narrow climbing streets with colourful flower pots under every window and then that castle up high looking down on the village. Dinner at "Aal Veinen" a recommended restaurant with a beautiful pork chop dish and for me Ardenner Ham.

Vianden-Diekirch

We decide to make the day shorter after yesterday and stop in Diekirch.

We follow first an old train track, now a bicycle track to Bettel. And then through mainly meadows. My feet hurt a little at the front. I think from the steep descends yesterday. Lots of wild cherries on the trees. An easy day. We found 4 or 5 ticks this morning on us! Nasty creatures. The camping in Diekirch is good, right along the river 15 minute walk into town.We have a coffee after dinner in the caf� of the camping when it starts to rain. I go back to the tent to get the washing in, but the lady camping next to us had already taken it in. What neighbours! We also exchanged 2 toilet rolls for some salt with her (toilet rolls come in packs of 4 and we don't want to buy a big bag of salt either.

Diekirch-Beaufort

We meet today for the first time another couple that are doing the GR5.

We pick lots of wild rasberries today and put them in a little plastic jar (and make home made jam) Arnoudt warned us not to pick them too low down where the fox could have soiled it, because they carry diseases. Arnoudt also told us about the plant that always grows where the nettles grow. Use its leaf to rub on the burn of the nettle. Thanks Arnoudt! There are lots of narrow nettle paths on this track and the advise comes in handy.

Beaufort camping is huge with a swimming pool. A lot of Dutch people.

The Beaufort Castle had some festival on, with people walking around in medieval clothes, music and fireworks. We have a pizza in a restaurant next to the baker, since we could not find anything for dinner at the campsite.

Surprisingly good :The recommended pizza in Echternach the next day could way not match this one.

From here we find ourselves in fairy land: magic green forest with brooks, rocks, lakes, caves, ferns. Paradise for rock climbers later on in the day and even an open air forest theatre. Lots of climbing on steps (we must have done 1000 easily, reminding us of our training in the Dandenongs at home)

We arrive in Echternach just after the tour de France went through. A lot of people around and a festive atmosphere.

Good camping, stuck against a hill. Architecture of the houses have changed since Vianden, much more stately and grand. Don't forget to visit the 'Venetia Gelati shop', with its extravagant variety of 'coupes'

Echternach-Born

Again through forest with rock formations. A sticky hot day. Often when we stop we hang our washing out to dry. The shop we counted on for food was closed in Rosport and Born has no shop. We meet the french couple who are walking the gr5 for 10 days in a caf� of one of the 3 campings. They join our table and have the same problem as us: no breakfast or dinner. We eat dinner in the camping and ask if we could buy some dinner rolls that were served with Mike's soup since the caf� is closed now for the day . We explain our situation where the next shop is 2 hours walking. They give us 6 rolls for free. Saved! Thank you.

Born-Grevenmacher

We stock up in Wasserbillig, a nice spot on the river with hundreds of white swans and geese. Giving ourselves some little treats. We have arrived in vineyard country now. Just outside Wasserbillig the track has been altered. We follow the new markers for half an hour, but then nothing. We walk back and follow the old route. Obviously those markers have faded. We still can follow them but at the end it is quite tricky. A lot of trees have been cut and the path has not been used for a long time. Finally we get back to the markers. Then we get stuck in Manternach because of a huge thunderstorm. We make ourselves at home in a bus shelter with a hot cup-a-soup. The storm passes and we get to a fine camping in Grevenmacher where the french couple camp next to us.

Grevenmacher-Remich

After the hot day yesterday it pours all day today. We walk for long stretches and arrive like drowned cats at lunchtime in Ehnen where we stop in a caf�. A big farmer's omelette and hot chocolate warms us up and dries us. When we get out it has stopped raining and everything looks clean and washed. We walk high up amongst the vinyards and look down on the river Moselle A train on the otherside in Germany goes through a tunnel . It all looks like a train-set: the villages, cars, boats, trains and cars. There is a tricky turn in Wormeldange to get to Wormeldange-Haute.

Again at the end of the day when you think you are nearly there are some obstacles on the track. The forest is full of fallen trees and broken bridges and misleading signs.

In Remich is no camping, but when we get there we see 2 campings on the other side of the bridge in Germany. Rather than staying in an expensive hotel we walk over the bridge and after an exhausting long, wet day we finish with a beautiful meal and the biggest beer I ever had in the restaurant of the camping.

Remich-Mondorf-les Bains

Still walking through vineyards, it is quite hard on our feet, because you cannot walk on the soft edges, too much clay. A helicopter is spaying the crops in the distance, in the end we only just miss it, spraying our path.

The paths are very steep, with sometimes long flights of steps between the paths. After Remeshen the vineyards stop and we find ourselves in different landscape, flat along a road with trees, still up high.

Then again an obstacle in the last hour of the day: they are building a new freeway right through the middle of the Gr5 track. We have to climb through and try to find the markers again on the dug up road.

A beautiful camping just outside Mondorf-les Bains. Our last camp together. We get lost a little getting into town. Different kind of buildings again, even more grand.

Mondorf-les Bains-Burrange

A 23km walk according to our sheet, but only 17km according to the new dutch book we bought. (later in the day we find out there is a mistake in the book and we did do 23km, like it says in the french book.)

The walk is on much flatter ground than in the past weeks. Easy walking along a somewhat boring , busy road. Better when we get back in the forest on soft ground. We see 4 deer very close by. We walk in France for an hour or so and Mike is gradually taking things from me to put in his pack. Just to get used to the weight. I am flying in the end! So light. Mike finds it fortunately not too bad. The railway in Burrange is right on the track and we take the train into Luxenbourg. We spend the night in a nice hotel opposite the railway station, from where I will go back to Holland.

The train trip takes 6 hours and 45 minutes and it is like a film rewound. I see the landscape change backwards very fast.

It was hard to say goodbye after an intense 5 weeks together through thick and through thin, hot and cold, wet and dry, up and down, nettles and blackberries, baguettes with brie and jambon. Between wild flowers and fruits, bumblebees and birds, sheep and cows and those blasted ticks !

Past rivers and dykes, heathers and forests, rocks and castles, villages and cities, beaches and brooks. We smelled the white mushrooms, the blossoms, our dirty smelly clothes . Our feet endured all sorts of surfaces, some better than others. We showered in a variety of "styles" Had good company on the way! Got our tongues twisted with 4 languages, in the end not knowing which one they were going to speak. We learned to appreciate little pleasures in life and were on top of the world most of the time and we strengthened our bond we already had. Thanks Mike for taking me along. There is still a long way to go! Enjoy!

Report by Barbara from telephone conversations with Mike

Days 1 and 2: Burange to Metz

Mike encounters a lot of detours in the first 2 days on his own, making the already long days hard trying to stick to the schedule. Days get chopped and lenghtened a bit to suit. First night in Bellevue he gets to the Gite, but no one is there. Also no water. Still puts the tent up on the site. At Saulny he meets 3 French men and they share their food together. A couple of days later he meets Julien, another French man who started from Bergen op Zoom about a week later than us. He left the next day by train skipping a few days so that he can finish half way through September in Nice.

Mike was supposed to get to Ars-sur Moselle, but got to Moulons-les-Metz, where he took the bus to Metz to stay in a Hotel. But as the bus drove into Metz he saw a camping and got out there.

Day 3:A rest day in Metz to let his feet and back recover (had not had a day off since Burg Reuland really). Time for some gourmet meals again. All necessary when you work hard!

Day 4 and 5:Moulin-les Metz to Pagny-sur Moselle to Montauville

Took the bus from Metz back to Moulin-les-Metz walking without a backpack to Pagny-sur Moselle.

Same the next day: train to Pagny-sur-Moselle and walk without backpack to Montauville

Day 6: Montauville to Liverdun

Feet and back fully recovered, he is walking in hot days. Some climbing but then flat walking on the plateaus. Beautiful views!

Day 7: Liverdun to Lake de Brin

The day gets chopped back to 25 km instead of 30km which makes tomorrow also 25 km. Wild camping at Lake de Brin in forets domaniale d"Amance. Another couple is camping there as well.

Day 8: Lake de Brin to Vic-sur Seille

Easy walking but the trail is sometimes non existing. Nearly walked back after not seeing a marker for quite a while, then suddenly one appears again.

Camping at Vic-sur-Seille is beautiful with a swimming pool.

Mike feels good, no soreness.

Day 9: Vic-sur-Seille to Assenoncourt

Easy flat walking and again track gets a bit lost. Markers in obscure places, lucky to see them. The path gets very overgrown sometimes as well.

Logging was done so: no visible track and markers hiding with hot weather.

Still made it okay despite all odds. Feet and back in good shape.

Stayed at Chambre d'Hotes a farm which served home made sausages and home grown vegetables: a feast!

Mike met 3 Dutch ladies in their 60's who were walking from Groningen in the north of Holland to Rome. Every year they do about 2 weeks and take 2 cars to get there and back.

Day 10: Assenoncourt to Gondrexange

Easy walking along canals with boats and past a lake. Found 2 nasty ticks! They are hard to get out sometimes.

Day 11: Gondrexange to Abreschviller

Fair climbing, not too hard. Beautiful country side. Again unclear track.

Mike caught the food-truck twice in a few days as he walked into the village. Lucky since the shop in the book was not there anymore.

'Sausage de Lorraine' has more fat than the Ardenner sausage we used to buy earlier.

It rained for a while and Mike used the poncho for the first time instead of the coat. He is going to attach some chord on the ends so you can pull it better over the pack. It worked well and he stayed dry!

Stayed in camping in Abreschviller; small and not expensive(4 Euros)

Day 12: Abreschviller to Col de l'Engin

Great spot to camp with good views. A German family is just leaving and leave the fire going for Mike. There is also a water source.

More ticks! A log seat near an overhanging rock must have been the best place for dinner and breakfast.

Day 13: Col de l'Engin to Schirmeck:

A short day, only 4 hours and a 3 minute train trip to Rothau where the camping is. Now it is just waiting for Rebecca and Chris. Time for some washing and a rest.

Sunday - Schirmeck to Hohwald

Chris drove Mike and Rebecca from the Camping at Rothau into Schirmeck to join the GR5 by the train station where Mike had finished two days earlier. All three had only walked about 100metres down to the Hotel de Ville and the Church before a track deviation was necessary. Some of the locals explained that the track up behind the church was closed for works. They gave new directions. Chris walked with Rebecca and Mike until the point where they entered the forest. It was uphill to the castle overlooking Schirmeck. Walking further up the hill we came across the lovely "fontaine Leopold" which was a welcome source of cold water to cool down as we walked in the sunshine. Then on to Struthof the museum on the site of the Nazi forced labour camp. We didn't stop to see the Gas Chamber on the way up the hill but paused by the labour camp for a view over to the Donon where Mike had been on his previous day of walking and for a look over the remains of the labour camp. I was horrified to see a gallows on site - no doubt left as a reminder of the terrible nature of the camp.

By lunchtime we had reached Champ du Messin. There were other people there, picnicing and collecting blueberrys.

In the afternoon we walked past another lovely "fountain" with a nice setting and view. Later on we walked through forest around the source of the Andlau and even over a lovely cascade as we got closer to Hohwald. It was a pleasant surprise to find a back gate to the Camping so, with tired feet, we could get in without walking right around the perimeter.

Once the Camping was arranged, we walked into town to see what the shop had to offer. Unfortunately there wasn't much there - just lunch/breakfast top-ups. So it was back to the camping to errect the tent, have a shower and go into town for dinner. We had Tarte Flambee volantee menu and thought we had done very well. There was as much Tarte Flambee as we could eat, a salad and lovely ice-cream for dessert. (I had a delicious raspberry sorbet!)

Monday - Hohwald to Barr

There was some trouble finding the track in through town but perhaps the delay was fortuitous as we were just heading out of the village when Mike called out "hello" to someone ahead. It turned out to be the three dutch ladies he had met a few days earlier who were also walking the GR5 in short spells.

We went on to the maison forestiere at Welschbruch in the hope of a drink but it was closed so we walked on to the monastry at Mont Sainte Odile. We sat in the courtyard looking out over the hills and forests to eat our lunch.

Shortly after that we came to Maennelstein where there was a great view out over the Rhine basin/plain.

Walking down the hill we passed two "kiosques" and wondered what the difference was between a kiosque and an abri. The only difference we could discern was that kiosques seemed to be octagonal.

Arrived in Barr and went to the tourist office to get advice on campings. Stayed in the vinyard camping that Mike had heard about because it was closer to the supermarkets than the other camping. (8 Euros plus 1.5 each for the showers.) Shopped for dinner and breakfast - we had fried chicken breasts, sauce from a jar and rice for the main course and cheese cake for dessert. After dinner we sat by the tent and talked and ate some chocolate.

Tuesday - Barr to the Chateau Fort Bernstein

Boiled eggs for breakfast to give us something substancial to walk on. Stopped in Barr to take some photos of the lovely city centre.

Walked on to Andlau which was also very quaint and charming. Pains au chocolat by the fountain in town to keep us going.

Further up the hill we stopped at the maison forestiere de Gruckert where we bought a litre bottle of lemonade. They fetched us one from the cellar so it would be cold and we sat outside in the shade of a tree to drink it. (Nice lemonade - not too sweet or too fizzy. The french are good at all sorts of culinary experiences!)

Lunch at the top of a hill - Ungersberg - with a stone viewing tower.

Walked on to the ruins of the Chateau Fort Bernstein. We were both feeling pretty exhausted by this stage. Mike was delighted to see a source sign-posted from the castle. We explored the ruins and climbed the donjon. There was a great view from the top. Mike got the idea that we could stop walking for the day and camp at the ruins. There were picnic tables out the front for eating dinner - packet soup with rice (nicer than it sounds), there was water for cooking, washing and drinking and there was a flat part inside the castle walls to pitch the tent. We each made a trip to the source to collect water, Mike brought back blackberries for dessert and we had some chocolate to finish it off. As it was getting dark we climbed the donjon again and looked out over the plain to watch the lights in the cities come on.

Wednesday - the Chateau Fort Bernstein to Ribeauville

Up at 5.30 am, a small breakfast (all we had left) eaten at the picnic table with the least gale blowing by and on the track by 7am! On to Castle Ottenberg (Mike's first oppotunity to trick Rebecca by pointing the wrong way to distract her from the sight of interest) from which we could see the nearby castle, Ramstein, and a distant castle. After a few minutes both of us began to suspect that the distant castle was Haut-Koenigsberg, the castle at which we were supposed to be having lunch!

In to Chatenois where we shopped to buy supplies and had morning tea. Hot Chocolate and Pain au Chocolat for me!

Walked to Wick which was full of families visiting the monkey park - not particularly charming, it was nice to get away again. Up to Haut-Koenigsberg where we sat under a tree by the edge of the path into the castle to eat lunch. Masses of people! What a change from the last few days on the track. I found that the crowds seemed excessive although I know I have been to much busier tourist spots in the past. It was just the change from the tranquility of walking alone for so many hours that got to me.

Just as we finished eating it started to rain so we didn't hang around - wet-weather gear on and headed off down the hill. Happily it didn't rain for very long and by the time we got to Thannenkirck we wanted to take the wet-weather gear off again. Thannenkirck has the most drinking water sources of any place!

On further to another three ruined castles. The chateau de Haut-Ribeaupierre turned out to be closed - for restoration. The chateau de Saint-Ulrich was really super - large and open to walk around. From there we got a good view of the other castle - chateau du Guirsberg (which we didn't bother visiting although it seemed to be open too).

Then it was just downhill, very steeply downhill, to finish the day into Ribeauville by walking through a vinyard.

We were completely exhausted when we arrived at the camping at 8pm! We had missed the office's open hours so there was no chance to buy jetons for the showers. But we had some good luck, Mike's German friends (Fred and Anette) whom he had met earlier in his walk on the track were there and gave us two jetons (for which we insisted on paying) and a can of beer! We went into town for a meal but the place was dead - quaint and beautiful but dead. We found a restaurant with a good menu but were told that because we had arrived so late (9.30pm) all that we could have was Tarte Flambee or onion tart. Not only that but we were told to move from the table we first sat down at. We had considered dessert but no service was the order of the day so gave up in the end and I hunted down the waitress so we could pay.

It rained heavily in the night - motivation was at an all-time low! Mike assured me that I didn't need to make myself miserable by trying to walk if I was too worn out and blistered. I mentioned the possibility of only walking for half the amount we had planned the next day.

Thursday - Ribeauville to the Gite d'Etape du L'Etang du Devin

Up at 5.30am again. Snuck out of the Camping without paying at 6.50am! Motivation and confidence in being able to complete the day's walking still quite low. Breakfast on the road - up the hill, in the forest, at a crossing of tracks with the sun breaking through the clouds a bit. By this stage things were better but I was very hungry.

Passed the rocks of Koenigsstuhl which are supposed to be in the form of a siege but we were not too impressed. Found the rocks of Tetras more impressive as there was a lovely view from them and the sun started to shine. Reached Aubure in good shape and good time but the sun was gone again. Shopping and pains au chocolat to keep us going. Coffee/chocolate on the way out of town to warm up.

Lunch at an abri which we took over completely. We found a candle in there so had a candlelit lunch but the weather was gloomy and the candle not really bright enough to compensate.

Upwards and onwards towards the Grand Brezouard. We thought we were just about there and as we looked ahead to a very steep climb Mike jokingly asked me if I was sure it wasn't just the Petit Brezouard. I laughed but it turned out that it was just that. We didn't realise until we left it and passed an abri which was described in the book. Anyway, we were glad we stopped at the Petit Brezouard because some of the trees had been cleared so it had a good view. The abri just afterwards was sadly damaged - once it had glass windows, now they were broken and it was full of rubbish. We headed on towards the Grand Brezouard again, thought we had found it again and labelled that place the Faux Brezouard. Finally we reached the Grand Brezouard but didn't stop as there wasn't much there to look at.

Descending from the top it started to rain, then pour - there was nothing to do but press on. The route into Le Bonhomme had been changed and didn't match the map anymore. Struggled on to the Gite hoping for hot soup for dinner and a hot shower.

All was well! Showers nice - with bath mats (what a luxury), whole 32 bed dormitory to ourselves (there were only four groups staying there and the others had small, private rooms) so we could spread out everything we owned to dry, delicious food - 3 courses starting with a massive turine of soup! Dessert was called "Glace" but was really apricot puree, blueberry glace, chocolate cake, some nectarine and whipped cream.

Post-dinner Mike removed the tick from Rebecca's ankle and Rebecca had the pleasure of squashing it!

What a pleasure to sleep on a matress!

Friday - the Gite d'Etape de L'Etang du Devin to Col de la Schlucht

Packing up everything was quite a process. We started before breakfast but it had to go on after breakfast too. Mike and I were just putting our shoes on in the foyer, about to head off when I saw a familiar reflection in the glass of the open door. Chris had just dropped Mat off at the train station and come looking for us. Not only was it nice to see him from a social point of view, we could leave our packs with him and go on with day packs only.

The best day in most respects... No heavy packs, least climbs and descents - just walking along the crest, sunny but not too hot, with great views. Particularly interesting were the fascinating remains from the first world war especially near the Tete des Faux. Apparently the Tete was fiercely contested between the Germans and the French in 1914-1915 and there are many old German fortifications there. It was strange to come there and see a middle-aged woman picking blueberries amongst the remains of the barbed wire and bunkers but also reassuring to know that we have the ability to recover from such awful things.

On the way down from the Tete we walked for some distance along a rough stone road which we assumed that the French built after they won the Tete back from the Germans. The road went as far as the cemetary.

Later we stopped for a hot drink at the refuge Tinfronce which has an interesting display in the basement.

Walked around Lac Blanc and over a couple of Gazons. Stopped for lunch, got slightly sunburnt and Mike joked about leaving our rubbish behind neatly packed into one bag as we had seen done in so many other places on our walks - one of the sad things about the countryside there.

Then came Mike's second opportunity to trick Rebecca - Chris was waiting on the track to meet us again and Mike got her staring off in the wrong direction so that she didn't notice him. Chris walked with us for a while - up to the roche du Tanet - and then walked back to his car and drove on to the Col where he was meeting us later. He met us on the track again later on and finished the walk down to the Col with us.

Into Munster, shopping for dinner/breakfast. Now we were back to the luxury of having two stoves for cooking and large pots and pans, we had pork chops with assorted vegetables.

Saturday - Col de la Schlucht to Mittlach

Another day with day packs only and it was only half a day of walking. Chris walked with us for a while in the forest up from the Col.

There were freezing cold winds up on Le Hohneck and there was no sunshine to make the scenery look good. From there it was mostly descents without much in the way of inspiring scenery.

The good thing for the day was that we managed to find at least one of each of the four kinds of berries we had been eating on the trip - strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries.

The descent was steep and slow and we were late to meet Chris in the village of Mittlach.

Into Munster for lunch where we could see storks on the church roof. Then back to the campsite to meet Mike's friend, Karel. We headed off again by car to do shopping for dinner and then to go south to drop Karel's car off where he and Mike expected to be in a few days' time.

Sunday

Chris and Rebecca dropped Karel and Mike at the track and said good-bye.

Mike and Rebecca looking far too fit and healthy!

Saturday August 3, Mittlach I meet Mike and his friends Rebecca and Chris in the afternoon at the campground in Mittlach. It had been an easy trip for me, by car, and along the way I could already get an impression of the (green) Vosges Mountains. It is good to see Mike again. He is now halfway the GR5, and he looks very fit. I hope I can keep up with him in the days to come. We drive with two cars to Giromagny, the endpoint of my part of the GR5, where I leave my car. Having returned at the campground, we have a good dinner (with soup, olives, pasta, wine and desert) and go to bed well after darkness has set in. 

Sunday August 4, Mittlach to Grand Ballon The morning starts with off a visit of a (friendly) mouse in the tent, which had been hiding in one of my shoes. Rebecca and Chris drive us to the start of today's walk, a few km's from the campground. The track immediately goes up hill, through the forest. After about an hour walking, we arrive at an open area, from where we have a beautiful view over the valley from where we started. Several little towns can be seen. We sit down for a drink and I am glad about the pace with which Mike is walking - I have the feeling I can keep up with him, and that I am not slowing him down TOO much. The walk continues up and down the green hills, and we find several berries along the way. The weather has been very pleasant so far - not too warm or cold, and no rain. At the end of the day, though, when we are near to the top of the Grand Ballon, bad weather suddenly sets in. It gets very foggy, and it starts to rain heavily. We decide to leave the foot path, and follow the road up the hill. After half an hour, we arrive at the hotel near the top, and they still have a room left. We take showers, and then enjoy a well-deserved dinner. 

Monday August 5, Grand Ballon to Thann Before breakfast, while I am still enjoying the warmth of my bed, Mike walks to the top of the Grand Ballon, the highest point of the Vosges (1400 m.). It is pleasant to know that today we cannot start in any other direction than downwards. The weather has cleared up, and we have good views over the hills and valleys. We have lunch in a restaurant near a big memorial centre, devoted to World War I. In the restaurant also many photos from that time are on the walls. We fill our bottles with water, and immediately begin with a steep climb, through farmland. After this, a long descend follows to the city of Thann. In Thann we settle ourselves in a hotel, where Mike hangs his tent out to dry, which was still wet from two days ago. After a dinner in our room, with fruit, bread, cheese, meat, chocolate and coffee, we go for a short walk through Thann. It's a nice town, with many colourful houses. 

Tuesday August 6, Thann to Lac des Perches Today is "up" again. Since we don't expect places along the track where we can get food or water, we take sufficiently much of this with us. From an open area in the forest, we can see the Grand Ballon in the distant. It's surprising to note how far it is away; we were there only one day ago ! After a couple of hours walking, we have lunch on the top of a hill. A group of people is having a BBQ there, and Mike is looking out for someone to offer us some warm sausages, but unfortunately, this doesn't happen. The warm coffee and the bread with cheese and meat tastes still very good, though. Further along the track, on the side of a hill, we run into a bunch of young children with mules (!), blocking our way. As they can't control the mules, we're forced to make an uncomfortable move around them. At the end of the day we arrive at Lac des Perches, and decide to go off the GR5 track somewhat, to head for Hotel Rouge-Gazon. Even though it's 30 min from the lake (with backpacks), it's surprising to suddenly see the hotel when coming out of the forest. At the hotel, we take two beds in a "dortoir" (with eight beds) where we turn out to be the only ones for that night. The price (28,50 Euros, including dinner and breakfast) is very good and the staff is very friendly. We have a good dinner, with Cote du Rhone to celebrate my birthday of two days earlier. (Wine in the two days before would have immediately put me to sleep.) 

Wednesday August 7, Lac des Perches to Giromagny Today is a treat. It starts already with the delicious breakfast, at the hotel, with many self-made dishes like yoghurt and blueberry pie. Still better, though, we walk without backpacks today: we leave them at the hotel, to pick them up (by car) in the afternoon. It's very pleasant walking now. Along the track, Mike checks out a good place for camping, which wasn't described in the guide book. It is foggy, but when we reach the Ballon d'Alsace, the sky suddenly opens, and we have great views. We lunch together with an elderly couple from the Netherlands, who are walking the GR5 bit by bit, every year. Soon after the Ballon d'Alsace we leave the region where the Club Vosgien takes care of the markers, and suddenly we see them all over the place; in the past days, we regularly had to stop, to figure out the right direction. There are again many (different kinds of) berries along the track, and we eat plenty of them. After a steady descent, we reach the village of Giromagny. My part of the walk on the GR5 has now been completed. We drive back to the Hotel Gazon-Rouge, where, in view of our good experiences, we decide to stay for a second night. The sleeping room is again fully ours. 

Thursday August 8, Giromagny Today is a rest-day. In the morning we first drive to Giromagny, where we reserve a place at the campground. Then we continue our way to the city of Belfort, which we find not really interesting. However, at the Tourist Info Center, Mike finds a nice "3D" map of the Vosges Mountains, with the GR5 clearly indicated on it. We subsequently go to a pittoresque village, Riquewihr, which is situated on the (north-)west of Colmar. It's is neat little town (and also very touristic). We have a Swiss type of lunch there: r�sti, with bacon and cheese. Cookies are handed out for free by the local bakeries. I decide to also have a cr�pe (thin pancake). Mike checkes out a shop selling tartes flambee. While driving back to Giromagny, we have a last look at the Vosges Mts, on our right. In the evening, at the camping in Giromagny, Mike prepares a speciality of his, pasta, and has a surprise for desert, namely delicious cake. We go to sleep, while discussing about the behaviour of stock and options on tulips ... 

Friday August 9 We have breakfast together and then we say goodbye. Mike continues with the next part of the GR5. On the way back, I pass the Ballon d'Alsace again, which is now covered in a thick layer of mist.