Diary of the GR5 Walk in 1999

I wake up feeling quite good and head off to have breakfast at 8:30 My ankles are not too stiff and the "chaff" has almost healed. I am amazed, I feel almost as good as yesterday morning. Over breakfast, I talk to my roommate, a retired man who now spends most of his time writing articles and a regular column for a cycling magazine in Belgium. Today he is doing his research with by car, because he has a deadline and this is the only way he can cover the route. It seems to me that he is cheating.

It is 800 m from the youth hostel back to the GR5. The path then continues through a nature recreation park that includes an outdoor museum depicting early Belgian life. Then I pass a castle, Kasteel Bokrijk, before again reaching the Albert Canal.

Today there is some traffic on the canal and ahead there is a set of locks. They are not on the GR5 but I divert so I can see them. Along this path, I am passed by a large group of young female cyclists riding with a single young male chaperone. They stop and we spend some time talking about the GR5 and what it is like in Australia. They are a very happy group of students, teachers, and occupational therapists having a weekend outing. They suggest I take a photo of them so I can show my friends in Australia what Belgian girls are like. I am asked what do I think of Belgium. I respond that I find the people very helpful. One asks if I think the Belgian girls are beautiful. I look at the girls around me and concede that I cannot argue that point. They are heading for a hotel to stay the night and unfortunately it is not on the GR5.

The path now meanders through a nature reserve with sand dunes, dry open country, and small lakes before reaching a water mill where the topo-guide suggest there is a caf�. The much-needed caf� is closed for the vacation period! I am very thirsty and today has been particularly hot. The cool tree-covered forest paths have been greatly appreciated.

I still have about 7 km to go. My feet are still feeling good and there is no hint of pain aside from the normal tiredness of having walked 16 km carrying my backpack. But I still have the problem of getting some water. I spot a small car repair shop that has the large door open. I ask the mechanic there, in my version of "Spraacht U Engels?" From the reply, in Dutch, I can assume the answer is no. "Haaft U watter?" I ask. Sure enough, he takes my water bottle and fills it for me. I thank him and head off down the street. Later, I hear, "Hey Amigo". I turn around, thinking what have I forgotten now. The paranoia of losing things is still with me. I quickly check: wallet, guide book, camera, and water bottle are all here. I return to the garage but the mechanic has disappeared down some stairs. He quickly returns a nd hands me an ice-cold can of Coke, pointing at the hot sun and saying to me "Das is besser". I am certainly very grateful. It is indeed a hot day and the cold drink is much appreciated. I remember my comments to the girls earlier today about the friendly Belgium people and I now have further confirmation.

A walk on a few more kilometres past "the absolutely free festival", a rock concert of medium size which seems to have just started. The path goes alongside the fence surrounding the concert area and climbs another hill of modest proportions. I continue along the path to the outskirts of Langerloo after passing a huge television transmission tower. Nearby are huge chimneys, probably belonging to factories. This is a town of new apartments, which look like the homes for the workers in the factories.

The path is now along the horse trail of Looien Heide. Today there is a dressage competition. Horses and riders in full dress are coming and going along the path. Thirty minutes later I reach Zutendaal and start my search for a hotel. The first appears to be closed. It is a four-star hotel and although the swimming pool, bar, and restaurants are shut, a sign says it is open for accommodation and breakfast. I ring the doorbell a few times but get no response. I walk to my second option. The door here is also closed but is answered promptly after I ring the doorbell. I can have a room for 1500 BEF. The man tells me that the other hotel is now closed. The new owner is converting it into a retirement home.

The restaurant is open and I order the "Day Menu" for 475 BEF. This is vegetable soup, pork fillet with frites and salad, and for dessert, ice cream and a strawberry. I order another Duvel beer and finish with a coffee. Afterwards, in my room, the world seems quite rosy as I drift off to sleep, planning to sleep in and have breakfast at 8:00 am.