Diary of the GR5 Walk in 1999

The plan for today is to walk about 18 km to Grobbendonk. There is a Natuurvriendenhuis (Friends of Nature hut) that I am now keen to try after my pleasant experiences at the yesterday at the youth hostel. It is very overcast this morning and I wander how long it will be before I am walking in the rain. It is Sunday and I am now sharing the path with what I believe to be most of Belgium out on bicycles. They are everywhere, most pass by with a cheerful "Hallo", "Dag", or whatever greetings are applicable.

A group of women cyclists stop and chat for some time about the weather, the GR5 and about Belgium. My impression is that Belgium people are a very friendly and helpful lot. Not long after this encounter I get further confirmation.

The path has left the forests regular cycle tracks and is now passing through farms. A lady asks me in Dutch, "Where are you going?" I reply with my Dutch version of "Do you speak English?" I usually have to repeat this a few times before it is understood. No, she doesn't speak English, nor German but insists that I stay until she gets her husband. He comes out and in perfect English introduces himself and his wife and asks if I would like a "fresh" beer. It is a hot day and my answer is obvious.

He retired at 57 and is now realising his dream of raising horses. He has 12 beautiful horses and he takes great pride in showing them all to me. One of his prized possessions is an Australian saddle, one of only three imported to Belgium. Between him and his two sons, they ride, compete in dressage and are into just about every other sport that involves horses. He speaks English well because of his job as chauffeur to the managing director of Esso in Antwerp.

We chat for over an hour on just about every topic under the sun. He is an incredibly friendly man. He gives me his address and I promise to send them a postcard when I return to Australia. I walk on, all the better for the beer, the conversation and the realisation that it is experiences such as these that I will treasure most.

The rest of the walk is through forests along horse trails and finally through the back streets of the sleepy town of Grobbendonk. There is a caf� near the centre of town. The sun has been out for a few hours and I am thirsty for another Belgiun beer. I order a Tongerlo Trappist beer. It is not as sweet as the Westmalle but it has a good taste and is certainly just as potent.

I phone the Natuurvriendenhuis but they are full. I ask if there is a hotel nearby and am directed to the Aldhem. It is near the GR5 she says. After enquiries at the caf� and further along the way help me to eventually find it: almost 2km off the GR5. Worse still, a sign along the way informs me that it is a four star (read expensive) hotel. I shudder at what it will cost to stay there. A single room costs 2,500 BFR including breakfast and the use of the hotel swimming pool. Repeated requests to the man at reception for a cheaper room are unsuccessful. He explains that there are other hotels in Herentals but he doesn't know what they charge. To hell with it, it is hot, I am tired, my feet are sore form the blisters, I take the room. The deciding factor was the picture of the room that showed both a shower and a bath.

The first thing I do when I get into the room is to fill the bath with hot water. I get in and soak for over an hour before getting dressed. Then it is time to head downstairs for a coffee and snack at the restaurant before going back and going to sleep.