Diary of the GR5 Walk in 1999

My current accommodation opens up new possibilities for walking. I am in the middle of two days of walking, Sint Philipsland to Halsteren, 19 km, and Halsteren to Bergen op Zoom, 11.5 km. However, without my pack, I could probably walk both sections in one day. I decide to walk from Halsteren to Bergen op Zoom this morning, catch the bus to Sint Philipsland and then walk back to the hotel in Halsteren in the afternoon.

After breakfast, I head off in the belief that I should be able to easily do these two sections. The walk into Bergen op Zoom is through a nature reserve and the path is mostly along horse trails. I meet an occasional walker and some bikers but no horses.

I arrive at Bergen op Zoom and find a supermarket so I can get provisions for the day. This consists of Yogurt drink, two peaches and an Indian pastry. I have a coffee at the Caf� attached to the closed hotel. The owners are an Asian couple with a new baby and have taken over the caf� only two months ago. The Chinese owner is refurbishing the hotel into apartments. There will be one less hotel in a town that seems to need more accommodation. It is strange, the hotels here are booked out yet De Ram at Halsteren is almost empty.

I wait for the bus to arrive and by 1 pm I am back at Sint Philipland ready to start the last section of the walk. It begins by following the Shelde-Rijnkanaal across a bridge to Nieuw-Vossemeer.

The canal is busy with commercial shipping. Long barges sitting low in the water. At any time three or four can be seen together with a pleasure craft or two. A small restored steamer sails past. I wave and the captains �hoots� back. It seems to be an exhibit from a ship museum.

It starts to rain later in the afternoon and I curse myself for not bringing my waterproof jacket. Still is only a light shower and it is quite pleasant walking along the fields in this light drizzle.

A small herd of inquisitive cattle come to the fence. They are in superb condition grazing away in a lush green meadow with more food than they can possibly eat. I stop and talk to them for a while, chastising them for fouling up the area around their drinking trough when they could be better organised by performing their ablutions in another part of the field. I get an immediate response from one cow that drops a gallon or two of urine right next to the drinking trough! After about twenty attempts, one cow finally touches my hand with its nose and immediately backs away. After several more attempts another one lets me pat its head several times.

The trail continues along the canal and then turns off along the Kladse Dijk into Kladde, through some farms until I am finally back at De Ram.

These last kilometers into Halsteren are tiring. My feet have taken a battering, my ankles are sore and I have several painful blisters on my toes. I tried to avoid walking on the asphalt or paved surfaces. The grass is softer and avoids pounding my ankles. But nonetheless the 30-km have been hard work. I probably will need to lose ten or so kilograms before they stop hurting. I plan to have a rest day tomorrow and my feet always seem to recover. I am worried I will not be able to keep up with the itinerary of the girls. It is still only the first week and I hope that my fitness will improve and my weight will decrease each day.

I eat only breakfast and dinner with a piece or two of fruit, a can of soft drink and an occasional cup of coffee during the day. Already I can notice some decrease in my waistline. Tonight, I order the hotel menu: tomato soup, pork schnitzel, ice cream or coffee. I choose the coffee and leave most of the roast potatoes and fries untouched. My appetite seems to be waning.