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HOW TO PLAY LIKE AN ANIMAL Yes, so far we have taken tactics from the military, the police and even professional sports. How about Animal Tactics? These tactics are mostly defensive in nature, as they are taken from animals who are primarily hunted all their lives. With a little bit of thought, you can turn them into offensive tactics, too. WASCALLY WABBIT Rabbits have been known to run in a complete circle, when spooked. Should the prospective predator be a little slow taking up the chase, the rabbit will end up behind them. In your case this will allow you to flank them, and avoid being flanked by them and perhaps come in behind them. This only works if you begin your circle OUT OF SIGHT of the opposition. DEER JOHN Deer will bolt, but will only run so far and then stop. They are faster than their natural predators and can easily out-distance them in a short time. In your case, when you are being pursued and you are out of sight, you stop and wait for your pursuers. When they step into your sights, you let them have it and take off again. Keep doing this. They will either get really cautious, allowing you to escape, or they will figure you�re not worth the trouble and give up the chase. GROUSE ME OUT Whether you are walking in a city park or in the forest you may have been startled by the sudden rush of wings as a bird took flight, practically from under your feet. Birds do this because the suddenness and proximity to the predator is a momentary shock which confuses the predator. This is best done when you are undetected in the bushes and your opposition is close by. They have to be REALLY close, around 25 feet. You burst out of the bush and scream and fire and run right through them. This only works when they have no idea where you are. You should see how big their eyes get! I did this once, at one of those big games. Not only did I get away without a mark on me, four of the dozen or so, had been eliminated by yours truly. For a few seconds, they didn�t know whether to spit or wind their watches! CHARGE IT Some animals will charge directly at the predator. This usually throws them for a loop because they are expecting the prey to run AWAY! I had this used against me, and this is really the best example. We had a guy cornered against the boundary of a field. As we approached him, he opened fire. We returned fire. As he got up some one shouted �He�s getting ready to run!� . We rushed him. He didn�t run away from us, he rushed at us. He got me and another guy and got away scott free. Unfortunately, he also had our team�s flag. FREEZE Some animals will absolutely not move, no matter how close the predator comes. Unless they are directly threatened or sense their discovery, they stay perfectly still. This is the best thing to do if there are twenty of them and only one of you. Of course, they have to have no idea where you are. I�ve done this and it is VERY unnerving to just stand there and let them walk by. It takes a lot of guts to do this. I have to tell you, I broke into a cold sweat, but what a RUSH! HERD MENTALITY Many prey animals and fish stay in groups. This serves two purposes. One, it gives you that many more eyes and ears to detect predators. Two, the group can easily scatter (or at least appear to) when attacked, thus confusing a predator as it does not know which one to follow. Durty Dan Sez: You will notice that most of these tactics are based around prey species. That is because prey species live by their WITS and predators rely on RAW POWER and SPEED. If you watched nature shows, you�ll know that the prey is usually more successful at getting away that the predator is at catching them. Also predators usually get the old, the lame or the very young. In paintball, the predators prey on the inattentive and the unwary DEFENCE AGAINST ANIMAL TACTICS Unless the opponent(s) have your team flag, NEVER PURSUE A FLEEING OPPONENT. They could just be drawing you away from their teammates with YOUR flag, or drawing you into an ambush. HOW TO BUILD A TEAM That's right, BUILD. Not form, not organize, but build. A team is built with blood sweat and (sometimes) tears. Buildings and maintaining a team is the single most difficult thing to do. I know, I've done it. Well, I actually helped build a CLUB, but it's a TEAM to us. The idea of a team appeals to a great many players. It is a strongly knit collection of like-minded players, it can be a group from your neighbourhood, your office, or just a bunch of folks you play with. No matter what the word "team" means to you, there are certain things you have to remember when you're building and maintaining one. SCHEDULE Establish a playing schedule. Once or twice a month should suffice. Set up the schedule at the first of the season and have all team members jot down the playing dates on the family calender. This way, family members can easily see when the resident paintballer is going to be playing and family activities can be planned around them. Try not to schedule play dates during long weekends as this is when families like to get together, especially if it is some sort of national holiday. Days like Mother's Day and Father's Day and anniversaries are to be avoided. (Of course, playing regularly on wedding anniversaries may end up giving you more free time -- but that's not the way you want to go, trust me.) COMMITMENT Players who belong to the team must be committed to the team's playing schedule. Most, if not all, of them must be willing to give up personal and family time to play on the scheduled play dates. POSITIONS You will need a team captain, a coach, an administrator/treasurer and a coordinator. These positions can be combined, if you are a small team. The Team Captain controls the team on the field. The coach advises and directs the team off the field. The coordinator handles playing reservations for the local field, arranges things like rental cars, transportation and lodging if you're heading out of town. The administrator/treasurer takes care of the various other things teams need to keep track of. The larger your team, the less you can afford to have one person doing several jobs. NUMBERS Always have more team members than you need. If you're forming a five player team, have at least eight members on your team roster. That way, when a couple of players can't make it, you still have enough players to conduct a practice. DISCIPLINE Set up rules for your team and enforce them. Rules like safe playing practices should always be enforced. If you have set up a team so that you will have like-minded players, rules can be put into place to allow you to preserve the "spirit" under which the team was formed. To give you an example, our club (The Canadian Contingent Paintball Club) has established rules that make things (like close range shooting, over shooting and the infamous dead man's walk) against the rules of play. We have "created our own reality". WHAT IS YOUR MISSION? Our mission statement is "to make paintball safe fun and affordable". To that end, we have established ourselves a recreational group who just wants to go out and play. We also have a competition team for local tournies (Team CanCon) for those who wish to experience the thrill of competing against other teams. Your mission could be to be a local tourney team, a recreational club, a scenario game team or you can strive to participate in professional tournies like the NPPL and GWS. PRACTICE A lot of professional players mandate drills. Flag grabbing drills, bunker drills, etc. This is all well and good, but nothing substitutes for actual playing. Over the years I have found the ultimate and only drill you'll need to become a good team. I call it the "Stacked Odds Drill". You should be playing full games (capture the flag, etc) but play them with two on three, three on one, four on two, etc. If you can handle multiple opponents in practice, just imagine how you'll do against a single opponent. The Stacked Odds Drill teaches you to keep your head up and keep track of things going on around you. This drill is essential as teams rarely finish a game at full strength, win or lose. Each game you play, some skill should be stressed and players should be made aware that they should be concentrating on that particular skill. Concentrate on movement, use of cover, shooting, communication, etc. The reason for this is simple, during a practice it is easier to concentrate on one thing than trying to focus on everything. This also gives the coach an easier time of assessing the players in the game. This is not a good tactic to use during a tourney. WALK-ONS Team members should be encouraged to play whenever they can, outside of scheduled team days. They can play as walk-ons. Any type of playing experience is good for a player. A word of caution though, don't expect to be on the same side as your teammates. In fact, you should insist that your team should be spilt up. (See Recruiting, and you'll see what I'm getting at.) Also, dust off, or buy, a pumpgun and go and play against semis. One: You won't be "newbie bashing". Two: Your skill will improve faster as you are not relying on firepower and must use your wits to out-fox opponents with semis. Three: Being under-gunned will force you to team up with another player and you'll be learning teamwork. RECRUITING Always be on the lookout for new members. They don't have to be experienced, but they should have their own equipment. Providing equipment to another player is costly and you really want someone who has spent the time and money on equipment so that you know they want to play. Occasionally you'll find a "super newbie" that takes to the game like a duck to water, but this is a rarity. This is why playing as a walk-on is essential, you will meet other players and have a chance to see them in action and work beside them. Invite prospective members out to play, tell them what you're about and that you'd like to see more of them at the field. Eventually, if things work out, they'll be a part of your team. HANG OUT If you can, hang out after the play day is over. Socializing with team members is also a way to build trust between teammates. CONCLUSION This will not make you invincible, but you will become a good, solid team of players. Ask about the Canadian Contingent at Paintball Long Island, Cousins and EMR Paintball Park -- it will prove to you my theories are sound. CAMOUFLAGE Let me start out by saying that I'm not about to tell you which camouflage pattern is better than any other. With this and a little common sense, you should be able to employ camouflage effectively. THE PURPOSE OF CAMOUFLAGE Basically, it allows you to hide in the woods, but it's more complicated than that. The idea of camouflage is not only to make you the same colour as your surroundings, but to break up the very distinctive human shape. This is not as easy at it seems. You have THE PAINTBALL CAMOUFLAGE CONUNDRUM. How much camouflage can a player use and not be accused of wearing it to increase the chances of a bounce? A ghillie suit may effectively conceal you, but they are outlawed on most fields. Basically, the suit consists of a dark base garment to which is attached many burlap strips. The ghillie suit makes the wearer "one with the forest�. Part of my sniper training was the construction of a ghillie suit. While extremely effective (I've been actually stepped on while in my ghillie suit during a Stalking Exercise) they may not be allowed on most fields. Ghillie suits bounce paintballs like crazy. USING CAMOUFLAGE TO ESCAPE DETECTION You must keep four things in mind: 1. MOVEMENT This is what your eye will notice, more than anything else. It is movement which is the main reason even the best camouflage is defeated. This is THE OTHER PAINTBALL CAMOUFLAGE CONUNDRUM: The key to the game is movement -- if you are going to rely on your camouflage to keep you in the game longer, you're going to have to move slowly, or not move at all. Trees and bushes don't run. They don't swat at bugs. If you're going to be running around like a crazy person, don't blame your cammies if you're spotted. 2. SHAPE The human shape has no other match in nature. The idea is to break up the outline of your shape, especially your head and shoulders. Head- wraps and the like are good for this. Remember, you're trying to blend in and look like your surroundings. Unless the entire field consists of human-form trees, you better think about changing your tell-tale shape. This also applies to your paintmarker. A little burlap around the barrel and loader go a long way. 3. SILHOUETTE This is like shape, but it refers to your shadow. If you're hiding behind something, check the shadow, can you see your shadow separate to that of the tree you're behind? Other people will. You may have the object between you and your opponent, but the sun may be from the side. Shadows give your opponent another angle to see you, without having to move. Your silhouette is also painfully obvious if you are at the top of a high feature and your opponent is below you. The sky behind you will make a perfect contrast to your dark form. 4. SHINE Shiny objects not only stand out from the verdant green around you, but they also reflect light. Kind of like a signalling mirror. Your goggle lenses and exposed skin will also add to your "shine signature". There's nothing you can do about your goggle lenses, although a visor helps. I find coloured lenses stand out, too. You shouldn't have any facial skin showing, because you're supposed to be wearing a mask and throat protection. Yeah, I know, the pros don't use facemasks. They get paid big bucks to take one in the kisser for the team; you don't. Besides, most tournaments are making face masks mandatory, now. WHERE TO USE IT This is where you need a little common sense. You want to go where your camouflage will do you the most good. Sitting in the middle of an open field is not going to do it. A large leafy bush (which would actually be a camouflaged player) kind of sticks out in a jumble of boulders. First, you want to stick to tree lines near open areas. The tree line helps you blend in and the open area gives you a large field of fire. If you can�t find an open area, try a path, a bridge or an approach to a flag station. These are called "choke points" which are likely avenues of approach for opposing players, especially places that only allow them to move in single file. Second, you want to be in the shade. The shadow will help conceal you and your shadow. WHAT YOU NEED TO BE CAMOUFLAGED You don't have to cover yourself in tree branches. You don't have to buy expensive foreign camouflage. Dark colours, especially greys and browns will do just as well. If you don't believe me, guess again. Animals camouflage themselves quite well, how many Tiger Stripe, Real Tree or Mossy Oak camouflaged rabbits or deer are there? You can wear black and still properly camouflage yourself, if you keep in mind what you've just read. THIS IS ALL GREAT, IF I WANT TO LAY AROUND AND BE A SNIPER, BUT I LIKE TO MOVE AROUND, WHAT ABOUT MY CAMOUFLAGE? You won't always be moving. Just so long as the camouflage clothing you�re wearing matches your surroundings, you should be okay. Let's say you hunker down behind a bush to survey your surroundings and you notice a group of opposing players; if you�re wearing the wrong colour, you�re going to be spotted. Movement, shape, shine and silhouette are still going to be important things to keep in mind. DETECTING CAMOUFLAGED OPPONENTS First, hope they haven't read this. Mainly you would use movement, shape, shine and silhouette against them. Movement will be picked up by the eye, without conscious effort on your part. Take time and scan your surroundings. Stop moving and look around. I mean REALLY look. I once stood perfectly still, the MIDDLE OF A PATH, and was undetected by a large group of opponents. They looked right at me and then turned away! I was so shocked, I didn't even think to lift my trusty paintmarker and teach them a lesson. INCREASING THE "LIFE� OF YOUR CAMOS Here are some simple steps to help you maintain your camouflage clothing and make it last a little longer: Buy quality. The best costs more, but in the long run, it will save you money. To tell a superior garment from an inferior one check the following: The material should be thick. If you can see the outline of your hand through it, it�s too thin and the material will wear out quickly; The seams should be "double stitched�, that is to say they should have a two rows of parallel stitching around every seam, much like the leg seams on a pair of good-quality blue jeans; Look on the inside of the garment, can you still see the pattern? This means that the garment�s pattern was dyed into the cloth, not simply printed on top of the cloth. Printed patterns fade quickly; Knees and elbows should be "reinforced�, this usually means that an extra layer of cloth was sewn onto these wear points. Wear knee and elbow pads, these things not only protect your body, but they protect your garments, too. Wash your garments in COLD water with a mild detergent. It is a myth that only hot water can clean clothes. If you wash them as soon as you can the dirt and paint won�t have a chance to "set in�. Otherwise, you�ll have to soak them to lift the stains and this lessens the life of the garment. Don�t use bleach. NEVER put them in a dryer, the heat of the dryer does a great deal of damage to clothing. Ask other players how long they have owned the garments they are wearing, how many times they play, and how they wash them. This will give you an idea of how durable the garment is. Paintball clothing takes a lot of abuse, and these simple steps will help you get maximum life out of your camouflage clothing. Well, I hope this helped. After some years in the infantry, I learned the importance of camouflage. Keep your wits about you and use some common sense. IMPROVE YOUR SKILLS Everyone wants to be a better player, right? I mean, being a better player is what makes the game that much easier for you. If you are a better player than your opponent is, you can defeat them. (Luck not withstanding.) I have five simple ways for you to improve you skills. Yup, five ways. It is really as simple as that. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO DO TWO THINGS AT ONCE. One of the two things you should be doing is constantly looking around. "Keeping you head up" is the most important thing you can do in a game. Being aware of where your teammates are, where the opposition is, how many of both heir are and what they are all doing requires that you look around. DOWNGRADE IN TECHNOLOGY ONE LEVEL OF THE PLAYERS AROUND YOU. When you are playing with a pump, when others are playing semi, you will have to try harder. You will have to outsmart your opponent, not out shoot them. You will be forced to think and act in ways that will only improve your abilities. STAND ON THE SIDELINES (OR REF) AND WATCH OTHER PLAYERS. You are very distracted when you are playing. If you are a non-participant, you have a more objective view. You can quickly spot mistakes and good moves. Watch closely, remember and apply these things. I learned more reffing for three years than I would have playing for six. TARGET PRACTICE. I don't mean a few dozen balls at the closest and largest target on the range. I mean you should spend one half hour, every game day, doing target practice. Your goal should be to easily put eight to ten balls (out of ten) on a target that is one foot by one foot at 100 feet. (I like to use 9 inch aluminum pie pans.) If you can do this, a loader or elbow at 50 or 75 feet won't be a problem. PLAY AS OFTEN AS YOU CAN. There is no substitute for playing. The more you play, the better you will become. I realize that time and money are an issue. Play as much as you can budget and time allowing. CONCLUSION So there you have it. This system works, it takes some time, but it works. If you do these five things religiously, you will become a better player. I guarantee it. HOW TO USE PAINTBALL PERSONALITY TYPES EFFECTIVELY AND HOW TO EXPLOIT THEIR WEAKNESSES HOW TO USE THEM EFFECTIVELY -- PART ONE You�ve seen articles describing the various paintball personality types. They catagorize players by the way they play. The articles usually end at that. This article, however, is going to show you how to best use these personality types. First, a few short definitions for the personality types. LONE WOLF: The player who goes off by themselves. They prefer to be on their own. SHARPSHOOTER: These are the players who cause many opposition players leave the field, in spite of the Sharpshooter�s conservative expenditure of paint. RAMBO: The player who is always charging up the middle. Rambos have a tendency to rush in, where angels fear to tread. HOSER: Pretty much self explanatory, no? These are the guys that measure paint they�ve shot by WEIGHT rather than by counting them individually, because it�s easier to figure out. WINGMAN: This is the player who will steadfastly stay at your side, backing you up. You know that, no matter what, that player is going to be there and support any move you make. POINTMEN (or WOMEN): These are the players who are always out front. Sometimes, way out front. MOVER: These are the players who never seem to be able to sit still. They are always running around, and if they can�t advance along the field, they�ll be found running ACROSS the field. SITTER: The player that can sit in a bush and wait ALL GAME for some poor slob to walk into his sights. OLD GUYS: Not so much in age (although that is a given) but in experience. These are the players who have been playing for at least eight to ten years. They�re usually over the age of thirty. KIDS: You know the type. All full of ginger and rarin� to go. The exuberance of youth fuels these seemingly untiring players. ADAPTERS: They can play any of the above types. They are the chameleons of paintball. They are all things to all players. They are the most helpful to you, and the most dangerous to your opposition. NEWBIES: Those who do not have experience playing the Game. Now that you know what I�m talking about, here�s how to use them. LONE WOLF: On larger fields, these are the players you send out to work around behind the opposition. Experienced lone wolves can creep THROUGH the opposition. Once through, the Lone Wolf can either be assigned to capture the flag, or start becoming a pain in the butt. (This can be figurative, or literal. You see, that�s what the Lone Wolf is going to see, the backsides of the opponents.) SHARPSHOOTER: These players are best placed in areas of the field where they have clear lanes of fire. The Sharpshooter needs open spaces to tag loaders, markers, boots, elbows and butt packs at long ranges. RAMBO: These maniacs are best sent to the area of the field that has the least amount of cover. Mainly because they don�t use cover, anyway. Have them rip through opposition lines to punch a hole. Sometimes, it�s best just to let these lunatics to their own devices and exploit any havoc they create. HOSER: The hoser is good for pinning opposition players down behind bunkers. They�re also good for giving covering fire so that Movers can race around unmolested. WINGMAN: These are the team players. The ones you send with a Mover to go get the flag. They are also good when you finally grab the flag and need protection for the flag carrier. POINTMEN (or WOMEN): These players are best used as "bad guy detectors�. They are going to want to be up front, anyway, no matter what YOU want them to do. They will inevitably draw fire, allowing you to pin point the opposition. MOVER: These are the flag grabbers and the 'firemen�. Fireman is a term used for players who dash into a gap in your own lines. Let�s say a player was eliminated in the centre of your line. If that hole is not plugged, the opposition could get through. The Mover will be more than willing to dash about the field, plugging gaps and giving support. Movers also keep the opposition confused as they can rarely be pin pointed or kept track of. SITTER: Is there a vulnerable area on the field? Perhaps your flag station is exposed. Perhaps there is a tape-line that players always seem to blitz down. Put a sitter there and let him wait for players to come to him. A sitter will usually stay in place and hold the tape line, or wait patiently for someone to dash into the flag station. Don�t underestimate a Sitter, they can save the game for you. OLD GUYS: These are the cunning old dogs of paintball. They know the ropes, and their experience allows them to adapt to the situation at hand. The Old Guys are also good leaders. An Old Guy plays with his head, outsmarting opposition players. KIDS: With their unlimited exuberance they can be a liability as well as an asset. They may not follow the game plan, and would rather mix it up with the opposition, despite the fact that you gave them a completely different job to do. The best way to use them is where you expect the most resistance from the opposition. Their exuberance usually overcomes any intimidating factors that might be thrown at them. They�re out to prove a point, that they�re just as good as the older fellahs, so let them. ADAPTERS: These are the players who can be used for any of the above. They are also the players who are good at two or more of the above. An Adapter can be a Lone Wolf/Sharpshooter, or a Mover/Hoser. Whatever the combination, it will be like having an extra player on the field. Use them where they could best be used. NEWBIES: Split them up amongst the experienced players. Do not allow them to clump into groups. You�ll need experienced players with them, as guides and impromptu teachers. Sometimes they�re not quite sure what to do, but they still have a marker and the will to play. It�s better than NOT having a player at all. Most every player has a 'speciality� they have settled into. Try to discover what this is and utilize it to your advantage. Most players will volunteer to do a specific task, because they know they�re reasonably comfortable with what they want to do. PAINTBALL PERSONALITY TYPES -- PART TWO How to Exploit Their Weaknesses For the first part of this artcile, I explained how to use these paintball personality types. What happens if the group you�re playing against has read Part One? Well, I took that into consideration. (Which is why there are TWO parts.) If you know how to find and exploit their weaknesses, they will become almost ineffectual. (That is unless they are adaptive players, and then you�re pretty much going to be toast. Luckily, adaptive players are the rarest of the rare.) LONE WOLF: They prey on the unwary and the solitary. Keep your eyes and ears open. Teamwork defeats the Lone Wolf. Have a few players hang back and provide cover, in case Mr. Wolf comes knocking at your back door. SHARPSHOOTER: Stay well behind cover. Also, thick brush defeats the best marksman. Stay out of wide, open spaces, where the Sharpshooter can do their best. Also, don�t give the Sharpshooter enough time to draw a bead on you, or find a target to shoot at. If a Sharpshooter is being shot at, they�re not going to have the opportunity, or the time, to aim. RAMBO: Wait until they break cover. When they rush out into the open, that�s when you let them have it. Rambos can be coaxed to charge very easily, with some friendly taunting. Most times, they don�t need coaxing. HOSER: The Hoser gives away his position. Also, Hoser can be flanked as they are more concerned about shooting, than they are about playing. Like the Sharpshooter, you have to keep things behind cover, or one of those five dozen paintballs he�s streaming your way is going to find their mark. WINGMAN: Usually Wingmen do not work well alone. Once their partner is eliminated, they usually have no one to mirror. (I was guilty of this, at one time.) POINTMEN (or WOMEN): If you can get them quickly, they won�t be able to call out your position to their team. Also, Pointment let you know where the opposition will be coming from. They must be eliminated quickly because they are the advance eyes and ears of the opposition. MOVER: The best way to defeat a mover is to pin them down. If they don�t dare get out from behind cover, they�re not Movers anymore, are they? SITTER: The best defence is to be more wary. The Sitter will shoot out of ambush. A little healthy paranoia goes a long way. OLD GUYS: These guys are DEVIOUS. You have to watch these players like a hawk. The Old Guys are hard to handle, and the best thing to do is pin them down, so they can�t do anything devious. KIDS: Just let them come. Their exuberance causes them to make rash decisions and mistakes. ADAPTERS: Stay out of their way. They can change from a Lone Wolf, to a Sharpshooter, to a Mover. When all else fails, pin them down. NEWBIES: They�re not as exuberant as Kids, but they will make mistakes. They also cause a distraction to the more considerate experienced players on their team. If an experienced player is kind enough to help a newbie, his attentions are divided. Also, some Newbies can be easily intimidated by aggressive play. Of course, all these players are defeated by one tried-and-true method. If they are eliminated from play, you don�t have to worry about them, do you? While simplistic, these techniques will give you something to build off of when you play. I got the idea from a tourney I recently reffed at. Two tourney players discussing the game they were watching, pointing out what individual players were doing, and coming up with viable options to deal with them. Sitting out an observing a game will teach you more than you would realize. HOW TO MAKE YOUR DAY EASIER Paintball has many permutations and many variables. No one tactic will work at any given time. The things you did last game to survive will get you eliminated in the next game. With all these inconsistencies, it's hard to know what to do. There ARE some stable elements in paintball. These areas are well suited for routines. These routines, when practiced on a continual basis, will become second-nature to you. IN CAMP. Check to see if your marker is loaded up (full hopper or full stock tube). It's really embarrassing to rattle off twenty shots of air. Make sure all your loaders/stock tubes are full and in your harness. There's nothing worse than grabbing your very last (or any) tube only to find it empty. Check your goggles. Make sure the lenses are secure and undamaged. I found a couple of cracks in my lens one day. Luckily I check before every game. Luckier still, someone had an extra pair to loan me. So, three things when you're in camp: Load your marker, load your tubes, check your goggles. HEADING OUT TO THE NEXT GAME. Make sure you have all your stuff. You won't know you forgotten it until the very moment you desperately need it. Avoid the: "Dang! Where the heck is my . . .?" Check your marker. Make sure there are no problems with the marker. If it will make you feel better; go to the range and fire a few rounds off. You don't want to have marker troubles during the game. I'd rather sit out a game and fix my marker than to get whacked because I didn't check it. Put your goggles on. Do this BEFORE you leave the "no shooting" area and go into the "shooting" area. This should NOT be done AS you are entering the "shooting" area, and CERTAINLY NOT after you've entered the area. So, three things to do when you're heading out to play: Check your kit, check your marker and put your goggles on. ON THE FIELD -- BEFORE THE GAME STARTS. You should have your goggles on, already. Especially if you followed the last routine. (If you don't know why you should already have your goggles on, shake your head. Hear anything? It sounds like a fish bowel with a bean in it don't it?) Pull out your barrel plug. Make sure everyone else has too. Nothing is more embarrassing, especially if the opposition sees your plug in and knows you can't hit them. Make sure your marker is cocked and ready to fire. Take the marker off "safe". Hey, we've all tried to fire an un-cocked marker. (Well, not me. Really. Honest. NEVER. Not once. Well, there was that time when I was a newbie, but that was over a DECADE ago. It NEVER happened again. Really. Honest.) Take your position in the flag station/starting point. If you are going down the right side of the field, be on the right side of the starting point. That way you won't be tripping over anyone trying to get to your first position. So, three things before the game starts: Plugs out, marker ready, and take your position. AS THE GAME IS BEING PLAYED. There are only three things you have to remember. Really. They are the constants in any situation. If you don't do these three things, any other necessary tactic will be useless, 'cause you'll be out of the game. Keep your head up. Take notice of what is going on in front of you. Keep track of where the opposition is. Know where your teammates are. Check over your shoulder. Always check your back door. Some sneaky player could have managed to get around behind you. I don't know about you, but I don't like getting shot in the hind-quarters. It's not only embarrassing, it smarts. Given the choice of getting shot in the backside and having a lobotomy -- I'd rather have a lobotomy. (I've never had a lobotomy -- no REALLY -- but I'm sure it would be better than getting shot in the fanny.) Take good cover. Make sure you are completely behind cover. A boot or elbow sticking out makes an excellent target for a good, or lucky, shot. So, three things to do during the game: Keep your head up, check behind you and take cover. WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED PLAYING. Now this could either be because you managed to last the game, or you were eliminated. If anyone has, in fact, managed to finish an entire game, I'd appreciate you telling me about it. (I'd like to know what it's like.) Clear your marker. Know how to manipulate your marker so that there is no ball in the barrel, ready to fire, and that the marker will not fire again until it is cocked or the safety is deactivated. This is done so that if the trigger IS accidentally depressed, the marker will not fire. Plug your marker. Put it in BEFORE you leave the field of play. Many players forget to put their plugs in. Make this part of your routine. KEEP YOUR GOGGLES ON. This is the biggest mistake you can make. The game is over and players will remove their goggles. There is no reason for you to remove your goggles until you get to camp. No reason whatsoever. So three things to do when the game is finished: Clear, plug and KEEP YOUR GOGGLES ON. WHEN YOU ARE IN CAMP, AFTER THE GAME. Remove your goggles. I usually keep my goggles on until I get to where my gear is, in camp. It doesn't matter how safe the field is, there is always some idiot who waves an unplugged marker around. If you see someone doing this, do EVERYONE a favour: Kick them. Kick them HARD! Tell him it's from Durty Dan. (It's YOUR eyes they're going to shoot out, you know.) Reload. Top up your hopper and refill empty tubes. Sit down and talk about all the cool things you did that game. So, three things to do when you get back to camp: Remove goggles, reload, and lie your little heart out. CONCLUSION. These routines have helped me. I've adopted them because I am complete "no-mind" sometimes. I've forgotten my goggles and I've forgotten to reload. I've shot at least three times, in one game, with my plug still in. I've walked into camp with my goggles off and literally run into an unplugged marker. I've been shot in the back. I've tried to shoot an opponent with an un-cocked marker and with the safety on. You see, I get caught up in the excitement of getting out to play paintball with my targets (er, I mean FRIENDS) and sometimes I forget the simple things. Of course, there are some things that never change, no matter how vigilant I am. "Oh, man! Anybody got a spare squeegee? I forgot mine in camp," is Durty Dan's battle-cry. HOW TO UNDERSTAND AND ENJOY LARGE FORMAT GAMES I have been playing in Large format Games for ten years now. I thought I'd pass on what I learned the hard way, so you won't have to go through the same agony as I did. (Ain't I a prince?) To simplify things, let's say there are four types of Large Format Games (LFG for short). There are other types but they are largely modifications to one of the four basic types of LFG: Big Games, Simple Scenario Games, Complex Scenario Games and Mission Oriented Games. Each have their own unique characteristics, but share many common denominators. Knowing the differences will help you play that particular game better and have more fun. DEFINITIONS Please note: The following definitions are mine. These are not "official paintball terms", I only use them in the context of this articles and for the sake of clarity. Big Games: These are the games where there are hundreds, even thousands of players. Usually there are very few props, the objective is to capture and hold territory and specific areas for point scores. Simple Scenario Games: They are very much like Big Games, but they also have missions that players can complete for points. There is an emphasis on the Big Game objective (capturing and holding territory) but there are missions thrown in for extra points. This is the level of the LFG that starts having unique props. It's a Big Game with props. Complex Scenario Games: These are like Simple Scenario Games, but they have more "behind the scenes" action. There are spies, secret societies and elaborate props. They usually are based on historical battles or wars, and many times they have a firm grounding in science fiction, fantasy or humour. This is beyond the Big Game with props and many players get to play "roles". The Complex Scenario Game also is a live action role playing game. Mission Oriented Game: This is a Complex Scenario Game where there are more missions than territory to be held. Completion of assigned missions will get you more points than holding your command post. COMMONALITIES Mayhem, anarchy and confusion. The individual player really doesn't see the big picture. They also don't see themselves as having a chance to be the single player who changes the balance of the game by eliminating another player. That's the game we're all used to. You take out an opponent, take advantage of the hole and help win the game. Don't think this is going to happen in a LFG. It is very rare. If you're the type of person who likes the feeling of directly participating in the victory of your team over theirs, I suggest the Complex Scenario Games and the Mission Oriented Games. This is where small team and individual action get most of the glory. If you want to just go out and shoot a lot, the Big Game and Simple Scenario Games are for you. HINTS Know the Rules If you can, have a copy of the rules with you, even when playing in the game. When you are registering, ask if the organizers will have copies of the rules available to players. Many players ask for the organizers to send them copies and add the cost of postage to their entry fees. This is essential for Complex Scenario Games and MIssion Oriented Games. You have to know things like: Where props have to go, once they're found? Is a prop is complete or it is a component of a larger prop? Do you get points of you stop the opposition from completing as mission? How long do you have to hold an are to get points? Do you get points as long as you're occupying an area? Who are your leaders? Who are their leaders? Are there time limits on missions? Are props returned to the field once they are captured and returned to where they are supposed to be? Games have been lost because players did not know the answers to those previous questions. Get a Map Ask for a map of the playing area, most LFG provide them. They might no be very detailed, but they'll help when you're lost. A crappy map is better than NOT having one at all. Water and Munchies Carry water with you. You're going to need it. You won't always be able to get back to your car for a drink. Bring snacks for the same reason. Granola bars, beef jerky, trail mix and other non perishable munchies always have a special pouch on my gear during an LFG. Good Footwear Be prepared to walk -- a lot -- for most of the day. Wear footwear for comfort, not for traction and speed. "Tourney cleats" are the worst thing you can wear. You're going to be on your feet for most of the game. Cleats are not made for all day endurance, that's why hiking boots were invented. A good pair of army or jungle boots are aslo a good idea, if you can't afford high-priced hiking boots. They're a lot heavier than commercioally made hiking boots, but they're designed for someone who is on thier feet alot, the infantry soldier. (A few years in the infatry taught me the value of a good pair of boots.) Be advised that this is not the place to be breaking in a new pair of boots. Blisters can end your day very quickly, and painfully. Getting Hosed and Lit-up Be prepared for multiple hits and getting hit after you have been eliminated. The LFG is known for the "hose or get hosed" type of play. Players, even those who are normally not hosers, will let loose. I usually go through 500 paintballs on a normal paintball day. In an LFG, I can easily spray out a case of paint. Try not to get mad when you get hit twenty times, before or after you are eliminated. The other players aren't lighting you up on purpose. If You are Hit When you are eliminated, get out of the way as fast as you can. Hold your hand s and your marker up over your head. I always carry a large white bandanna or handkerchief and wave it around after I'm hit. You have to remove all doubt that you're out. This doesn't always work, but I found I got hit lesss when I waved a white flag. Be a Hero Take chances. Go for it! Lead the pack, charge, rush and shoot. If you are hit, you'll be back in the game after a short wait in a holding area. (It's also a good idea to know where the holding areas are, in relation to your present position.) TACTICS AND TIPS There's Going to be a Bomb at the HQ! Let's say you heard a rumour that your command post or headquarters was going to be blown up by some scenario provided "weapon". Most command staff will simply vacate the HQ and stay in the neutral areas (in camp, not on the field) to avoid being eliminated. However, games have been won by fooling the opposition into thinking this was about to happen and then taking advantage of the lack of command leadership to defeat the opposition. There is s simple way around this. Just move your command post to another location on the field. You should be continually scouting sites for alternate command posts, in case you have to evacuate the one you're in. Oh, no! I'm alone! Stay quite, move slowly and avoid large concentrations of opposing players. Head for the nearest boundary and stick to it. Travelling along the boundary allows you to have 180 degrees you don't have to worry about. This is because you shouldn't be finding the opposition on the other side of the boundary tape. If you do, they're out of bounds and usually ruled out of the game. If you want to actually go and do some damage, you must pick and chose your time and place. It must always be on your terms. The engagements must be quick and you have to get out of there before things start going bad for you. You may only get one shot, but from my experience, that one shot usually connects and it unnerves the opposition. It's Just Us, Guys. Let's say it's just you and a few teammates. They may be the players who came with you to the event, or they may just be a group of players with the same coloured armbands. Be that as it may, you should still follow the advice I gave to solitary players. Pick your battles. Try to come in behind opposing players (especially if they're trying to capture something your team owns). Set up ambushes. Another way for you and your buddies to have fun is to go scouting for opposition weak points and send messages to your leaders. This is called reconnaissance and most LFG leaders appreciate teams gathering it for them. You can even volunteer to be a recon unit for your side. This is a riot. Remember, your motto is: "Sneak, peek and take off." You don't engage the opposition unless you're shot at first. You don't tackle even smaller groups of players, unless they have something your team could get points from. (Some Mission Oriented Games give points to the opposite team for stopping a mission.) We Found a Prop Do you know what to do with it? If not ask a ref, or refer to your LFG rules (if you have them -- this is why I told you to get a copy.) When you get the prop, sit down and THINK of what you are going to do. PLAN! Tell all the players who are going to be escorting the prop the following things (if they are applicable according to the rules): Where the prop has to go. Who must receive the prop. Protect the prop at all costs. Do not engage the opposition unless in self defence. Inform them of special requirements (time limits, if it will take two players to carry it, etc.) If you do have a copy of the rules, take charge or provide guidance to someone in charge. Tell the other players you know what to do with the prop and flash the rule book. I guarantee if you have a copy of the rules and a map of the field, players will listen to you because most players just don't know what's going on. I Want You Guys To Attack the Opposing Team's Fort. If you have a leader (general, etc), and they want you to do something, the only way you're going to win is if you do it. The leader usually has information you don't know about. They may know that there are only twenty players at the location they want to take. You may be a diversionary attack so that a larger force can attack from another side. You really don't know and sometimes they do not have the time to explain things to you. A good leader will know what's going on and you have to trust them. Hey, even if you don't trust them, no one's gonna get killed if they're wrong. A Great Place to Practice. I like to go off on my own and stalk other players. I like to sneak up behind "enemy lines". I like to take pot shots and people and scamper off. It doesn't do much for the big picture, but I'm teaching myself how to work alone. This is good for your team as well. A small group of players can cause havoc in the right place at the right time. You can also practice marksmanship, camouflage, ambushes and many other skills you can use in normal games. All day long. We Specialize in LFG's This is a good place for your team to go to an LFG and work together. There are some teams that specialize in playing in an LFG. They volunteer for missions, they perform reconnaissance, they conduct harassing raids to divide the opposition, et cetera. These types of teams are highly prized by LFG command staff. These are also good teams to join up with, during the game. They'll see most of the action. We Like to Play in Villages/
