Durty_Tips2



	THE BASICS BEFORE YOU GET ON THE FIELD 1.Check your goggles and make sure the strap is secure on the frames and check to ensure the lenses are properly in place. Make sure they're clean. 2.Make sure you have your squeegee. 3.Check to see if your tubes or bulk loaders are topped up. AFTER YOU GET TO THE FLAGSTATION/STARTING POINT 1.Remember to take your barrel plug out. 2.Make sure your paintmarker is loaded, the CO2 is on and it's cocked and ready to fire. COVER AND CONCEALMENT, THE SAME THINGS? No, they are not the same thing. Think of it this way. - Cover: it will stop a paintball, but will not hide you. A pane of lexan (goggle lense material), for instance. - Concealment: it will allow you to hide, but may not stop a paintball. A wall of paper is a good example. Most times, you'll get both. Don't rely on it, one hundred percent of the time. Just remember, the bush may hide you, but it might not stop a paintball. Also with cover, when you are using vertical cover, like a tree trunk, you should stand at least an arms length away. This way the tree will cover you better from your opponent's point of view, and it does not obscure your vision as much. MOVEMENT THE BEST WAY TO MOVE (WHEN YOU'RE NOT BEING SHOT AT) Unless the other team knows where you are (indicated by the fact that they're shooting at you) take your time. The faster you move, the more noise you're going to make. If you have the time, take it. You can have speed, or silence, but not both. You'll know when to use one or the other. If you are moving on someone try to keep obstacles between your eyes and his, even a slender tree may hide you from their vision. Also, while you are moving, you should keep your paintmarker "at the ready" position. When in a game, but not in the action, you must have your paintmarker ready at all times, but still carry it in a comfortable position. For a rifle, or any paintmarker with a stock, the butt us clamped against your side (in the space between your rib cage and your waist) by your right arm (on the opposite side if you shoot left handed). The barrel is pointed up and held so the muzzle (end of the barrel) is slightly below eye level, with your left hand on the pump or forestock. The muzzle should follow your eyes as you scan the terrain. When held this way, your paintmarker is always pointed in front of you should you acquire a target. When holding the paintmarker in this fashion you can do one of two things: a very quick hip shot or a quick and aimed shot from the shoulder. For a hip shot, bring the muzzle down. The index finger of the hand on the pump/fore end should be pointing down the barrel. Your eye and index finger align almost perfectly to where you are pointing. With your index finger pointing along the line of the barrel, it will help you "aim" that much better. For shooting from the shoulder, when the target is at a greater range and there is more time to aim (relatively speaking) the paintmarker should be brought to the shoulder. This is done very simply, although the explanation seems complicated, the actual doing is better than the telling. The paintmarker is pushed out, keeping the muzzle on the target. The stock is swung up to meet the shoulder and once it is in line with the shoulder, is brought in and held snugly (not tightly). The head is brought down to use the sights. Seeing how you kept the muzzle of the paintmarker more or less on the target, you should only need a minuscule adjustment to properly sight in on your intended target. If you are toting a pistol, the principle is the same, but the technique differs slightly. For pistoleros, the pistol is held in your normal shooting hand either in a two handed grip on the pistol or with the non-shooting hand on the pump/fore end. The muzzle is still held at eye level and tracks with your eyes when you scan. A very important thing to remember is to keep your elbows down at your sides. If you don't the muscles will be supporting the weight of your arms and the pistol and will tire quickly. When you acquire a target the pistol is pushed out towards it, keeping the muzzle on the target. With practice these methods are very easy to master. Most master the basic concept with the first time they try it. Incidentally, these methods were developed from shooting skeet and trap with a shotgun. THE BEST WAY TO MOVE (WHEN YOU ARE BEING SHOT AT) The idea is to move as fast as possible, in short bursts, to prevent your opponent from drawing a bead on you. As a rule of thumb, it takes about three seconds for a person to recognize, acquire, sight in and shoot at a target that pops up unexpectantly. You don't want to give them three seconds. You also don't want to "telegraph" your movement. When you're ready to go, then GO! Don't try a "head fake", or any fancy stuff like that. You're robbing yourself of your three second advantage. BASIC TEAM TACTICS Okay, these are really simple. I mean, my dog understands them. They are effective BECAUSE they are simplistic. BASIC OFFENSIVE TACTICS 1.First, you should designate a small group of players to act as a flanking party. These players will automatically break off and flank the opposition when you encounter them. If you designate specific players to do this before the game, you don't have worry about confusion on who is going to go during the game. I remember being up front and saying "A couple of you flank around." When I turned around, they were ALL gone flanking! The Flanking Party should stay to the back, so they don't get hit during initial contact. 2.It's also wise to stay in one group. If you break up into smaller groups, the opposition will eliminate them quickly, if they were smart enough to stay in a group. 3.The best way to win is to avoid the opposition altogether. It's fun to shoot your friends, but if you want to win, you'll want as many people as you can get into the flag station. 4.When you get to the flag station, send your flanking party around to the other side to divert attention. Once the defenders start moving and advancing on the flankers, you rush in and shoot a few butts. This only works if the defenders don't see the main body. BASIC DEFENSIVE TACTICS Defenders are only there to slow down the opposition. By definition, they are DEFENDING, not stopping. The longer you can slow down the opposition, the better it will be for your attackers. You should only have a few defenders, and those who will not break and run at the first sign of trouble. Incidentally, the most tenacious defenders I've ever gone up against have been women. I don't know why, but they're more determined than their male team mates. (That doesn't mean you should leave the ladies on defence all day, guys.) WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU HAVE THE OPPOSITION'S FLAG Everyone makes the same mistake. You grab the flag and you take off, leaving the opponent's flag station empty. What happens if they have YOUR flag and they're halfway back. They're going to hang the flag while you're still huffin' and puffin' down the trail. Leave a few players back to give the opposition a little surprise, and give you a little more time to get to your flag station. When you get to your flag station, make sure it's clear; the bad guys may have read this too. Don't let the guy who grabs the flag run off half-cocked. Make sure there are a few players in front of him and a few players behind. Most times the opposition doesn't realize you have their flag until you pass them. Now they're behind you, which is why you have a few players taking up the rear. No matter what: NEVER LEAVE THE OPPOSITION'S FLAG STATION UNATTENDED! WHAT TO DO IF THE OPPOSITION HAS YOUR FLAG Where are they going to go with your flag? That's right, THEIR flag station. Don't try to second guess which route they're going to take back. Beat feet to their flag station and wait for them there. They usually come running in, thinking (and acting) like they already won. Then, you let them have it! HOW TO BUY PAINTBALL EQUIPMENT INTRODUCTION Over the last fifteen years, I'm sure I've spent the Gross National Product of a major western industrialized nation. It's a wonder I still have a roof over my head. (Actually, we live in a cardboard box, but it's a house to us.) If you're going to spend your hard earned money, you had better be wise on where and how much you spend. Let's face it, once you've played this game, you're going to be addicted and you're going to want to buy some of your own equipment. You're going to be really excited and you'll want the first thing that you see. Take a deep breath, relax, and read this next section. It will help. WHAT TO BUY, WHAT TO BUY . . . I'll never tell you what to buy. Everyone has their preferences, and everyone has their own budgetary restrictions. What I am going to tell you is how to spend your money wisely. The best tip I can give you is to think about your purchases carefully. There are many things you might WANT but do you NEED them? What type of game do you play? Do you go through a lot of paint, or are you a marksman? Do you rely on your paintmarker or on your own abilities? What kind of player do you want to be? These are important questions. The answers will dictate what equipment you are going to buy. I've been playing since 1984, I played for five years before I bought my first paintmarker. (It was a Nelspot.) I played for a few more years before I got a pump. It wasn't until recently that I bought a semi. The reason being is that I don't use a lot of paint when I play. Maybe 500 rounds a day. In Big Game 94 (an ALL day game), I had 750 rounds in the morning, and at the end of the day I still had around 200 to blow on the range. I find a lot of players will buy something because that's what the "pros" use. Why but an $80.00 hopper when a $30.00 hopper will hold the same amount of paint? Sure, the eighty dollar hopper has one of those "agitators" in it. Save yourself fifty bucks and shake your paintmarker, every now and then. NEW -- OR SECOND HAND? Second-hand equipment is a lot cheaper than the new stuff. If the player keeps it in good condition, you should be able to get a few years out of it. My marker was made in 1989, so was my buddy's -- they were well taken care of and they both work like the day they were made. I WANT TO BUY THE [INSERT NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVICE NAME HERE] WHAT ARE YOUR RECOMMENDATIONS? Don't get caught up in gimmicks and tricks. New technology is unproven. Wait a year, and see what other people are saying about it. GOGGLES There are places where you shouldn't skimp. Goggles. Buy them new, buy the ones that are meant for paintball. Ask yourself how much you eyes are worth, and you'll find goggle prices aren't that high. If you buy used goggles, get new lenses for them BEFORE you wear them to play. Check out the frames, the head strap and the face mask, BEFORE you buy it. Look for tears, cracks and the like. I STRONGLY recommend AGAINST the purchase of USED goggles. "ENTRY LEVEL" VERSUS "ADVANCED" MODELS Whether you play Stock, Pump or Open Class, there are inexpensive paintmarkers out there. They're usually billed as "entry level" paintmarkers. There are so called entry level paintslingers out there which are as every bit as good as the higher priced paintmarkers. You're probably a recreational player. How many times do you play in a month? Enough to substantiate a $600.00 semi or a $200.00 semi? Can you afford to feed it paint, every time you play? I hate the expression: "entry level". It suggests that an entry level paintmarker is what you buy when you first start playing (and don't know any better), and then get something "better" when you have more experience and know the difference. CONCLUSION There's nothing wrong with using inexpensive, or second hand equipment. I've always found that the more expensive something is, the more mechanically complicated it is. If it's mechanically complicated, more things tend to go wrong with it. Just remember, stay within your budget. Stay within your style of play. Save your money. No one says you can't buy new stuff. "Trading up", as they call it, is an integral of paintball. HOW IT WAS AND HOW IT IS Appreciate What You Have INTRODUCTION Years ago, when paintball was in it's infancy (pre 1990), players had little to choose from in the way of markers, equipment and accessories. Even goggles. Players today take for granted that they can go to their local paintball store, or write to their favourite mail order retailer, and get any piece of equipment they can afford. It wasn't so, "way back then". When I started playing paintball, we had to chase the dinosaurs off the field before we could started playing. Many players were trampled buy huge plant eating dinosaurs, or consumed by the predators. But that's another story. You also have to remember that I started playing in Canada, where paintball took a while to catch on. In 1984, when I first started playing, we were at the level American players were at in the early 1980's. RETAIL How It Was. In all honesty, we had it rough. Anything we wanted (direct feeds, 12-gram quick changers, loaders, face masks, harness and other equipment) we had to MAKE it. That's right, we had to go into our little, ill equipped workshops and make the stuff. If it was made by a manufacturer we had to spend the time to try and find their address. In many cases, by the time you got the address the company was out of business. Players sent money to companies and never received the products they ordered. There were a lot of "fly-by-night" and "quick-scam" businesses out there. They sullied the reputations of honest and legitimate businesses that always satisfied their customers. How it Is. Retailers try and fill orders quickly and efficiently. It is their business to supply paintball products throughout North America, and sometimes the entire world. They've learned from their mistakes, like all of us have (or at least the way all of us are SUPPOSED to). For the most part, the greater majority of mail order retailers have earned a reputation for excellent service. AIRSMITHS How It Was. An airsmith was a guy (normally) who had a small machine shop, or even simply his own tools and lots of talent. They worked in their basements or garages and they modified markers belonging to people they knew and played with. I was one of those people. We installed direct feeds, made pumps, cut out slots in factory quick changes, made dual 12-gram systems, and the list goes on and on. Quality was reasonable, as the 'smiths knew the players whose markers the 'smith was working on. It was "do a good job, or lose a friend". As I remember, I had to replace a couple of markers I had ruined. How It Is. Now there are custom shops, and that's all they do. They anodize (the best we could do is paint), they make barrels, they make complete markers. The list of modifications to existing markers is impossible to keep up with, I know, I try. Customs shops turn "out-of-the-box" markers into customized paintslingers, and works of art. BULK LOADERS How It Was. You made them. As simple as that. You made them from plastic jugs and oil cans, you made stick feeders, you did what you could to increase the time between reloading. How It Is. Now we have loaders, available at most paintball stores, that can hold up to 300 rounds. They feed reliably, they are relatively inexpensive, and even the cheapest ones work. The problem is that players are reloading as many times as we did, when we had STICK FEEDERS. The more paint you have, the more you're gonna shoot. SEMIS, PUMPS AND STOCKGUNS How It Was. Semis were very rare. You had to put pumps on most markers. Most markers were what we now call stock class. In those days, you had such a bewildering variety in technology that players were segregated or had artificial limitations put on them so that everyone, regardless of technology, could play on an almost equal footing. The great thing was that a player with a semi would agree to only have 40 paintballs in his loader to make up for the fact that there were three people with Splatmasters on the other team. How It Is. Groups don't usually have to be segregated. Most players own a semi. Everyone is playing on a more-or-less equal technological level. Newbies can rock because they can pound out paint like a seasoned recreational veteran. (Of course seasoned recreational veterans don't go through a whole lot of paint.) TOURNIES How It Was. The American Airgun Challenge was one of the first "big money" tournies. They started on or around 1987 and the total money value for all the prizes was around twenty thousand dollars, if I remember (I could be wrong). They were also the birth of the old "Comp Class" tournies of the East Coast. Comp Class restricted barrel length, feed systems and power systems, to prevent the "arms race" that was occurring on the West Coats with constant air, bulk loaders and autotriggers. How It Is. Tourneys seem to be springing up everywhere. From local bush-league games to the professional circuits. They all owe their origins to the old tourney circuits in the 1980's. Tournies now have expansive rule books, professional reffing staff and governing boards. You also hear about cheating, something you never heard about before 1993. (The first article of cheating appeared in the September issue -- of another magazine -- in 1993. It created quite a stir.) FIELDS How It Was. Everyone played together. Newbies rarely were segregated and they got stomped on. A new paintball term was born "squid bashing". Every issue of every magazine that had a "reader's mail" section had at least two letters complaining about "squid bashing". Fields were not that fancy. Speedball wasn't invented yet. You had woods, woods and woods to choose from. The "better" fields had a few ramshackle huts they called a "village". We considered this "cool" at one time. The playing area was simply an area of woods with yellow rope around it. How It Is. Man, you get everything now. I have been to field s that have spent enormous amounts of money to have villages and towns made for them by professional carpenters. The set-ups are amazing. There are speedball fields, brush fields, open fields and for the most part, they are kept groomed and free of entanglements. CONSTANT AIR How It Was. I was convinced that when Gramps and Grizzly patented constant air it was the ruination of paintball. Many players felt it was unnecessary. You have to remember, in those days going through 500 rounds a DAY was considered excessive. Constant air was both praised and condemned by players. Of course, the players who praised constant air were the ones using it. Eventually most of us came around. How It Is. It looks like CO2 is on the way out. More and more players are going for the high pressure systems. It may be a decade before CO2 is no longer used as a propellant, but you will see it go. The thing about it is that constant air is the greatest technological improvement in the game. Without constant air, there was no viable semi. The semi helped new players into the game. It's fun to shoot hundreds of balls. (It's not fun to PAY for them, however.) PLAYER ATTITUDES How It Was. Everyone was just a "player". You had personality types, based on the tactics they used, but by-and-large, we were all players. Also, there were few really experienced players, as the sport was in its infancy. No one had more than three or four years playing time. While the more experienced players SEEMED aloof, they were not. It's just that we were somewhat intimidated by a player with all their own gear, even if it was home made. Tourney players didn't exist. How It Is. Now you have all sorts of players, you have recreational, tournament and occasional players. You have experienced players with over 10 years of playing time and you have newbies. On average, within one month of playing, most players decide to buy their own gear. I had been playing for three years before I bought my first gun, a Nelspot. (I still have it, too.) Player attitudes have changed. I don't know why, but they seemed to have changed for the worse. Recreational players are beginning to look and play like professional tourney players. This is okay, if they're in a tourney, but when they're playing a rec-ball day, many of them are not welcome. New players want the top of the line kit, RIGHT AWAY. They do not want to go from a stockgun, to a pump, and then to a semi. CONTROVERSIES How It Was. Let's see. Single twelve gram vs dual 12 gram. Twelve-gram vs constant air. Pumps vs autotriggers. Pumps vs semis. There was a movement to limit loader size. There was even an extremist faction that did not want women playing paintball. (Idiots.) How It Is. Well, let's see. Now we have fully automatic paintguns, as if getting hit with ten balls wasn't enough. There are other controversies, like the re-emergence of stock class play. Stock players don't want to play against semis. Those of us who do are labelled as insane or delusional. (And they say genius is seldom recognized in its own time.) PAINT How It Was. It was crap. How It Is. It still is crap. This is the limiting factor on performance, even after all of these years. Paint quality has improved, but making a paintball is more of an art, than it is a science. PUBLIC AWARENESS/ACCEPTANCE How It Was. Most people would say "ping pong?", when you told them what you do for a hobby. You had to go to great lengths to describe the sport to them. How It Is. Usually all I get out it , "It's like capture the flag and you have this airgun that fires the little balls full of paint . . ." To which they answer, "Oh, yeah . . ." and they relate their personal experience. Most people have either played, see it on TV, or know someone who has played. SAFETY How It Was. We were extremely safety conscious with what we had. Many fields used "shop glasses" as eye protection. Of course the markers were terribly low-powered. I'm still surprised nobody got seriously hurt. How It Is. Paintball is safer than it was. Goggles are specifically made for paintball, we have chronographs, and we have barrel plugs. The safety record for paintball has remained unchanged, despite the player boom of the mid-1990's. You'd think that more players would result in more injuries, but it hasn't. CONCLUSION How It Was. I loved paintball, back then. It was so simple and carefree. Of course paint was expensive. Not to mention the markers were very expensive (a good quality pump cost as much as a mid-range semi costs now). The goggles sucked. Oh yes, there weren't many fields. How It Is. Maybe it has improved, in some ways . . . HOW TO BE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY INTRODUCTION This is the New Millennium. You don't have to ram a whaling boat, spray paint a baby seal or chain yourself to a tree to save the environment. (Not that there's anything wrong with those things, you just don't have to do them to be an "eco-warrior".) Anyone who recycles or composts or tries to reduce household and workplace waste is an "eco-warrior". Every little bit helps and everyone can help in their own small way. As someone much wiser than I said, "If you truly feel that you cannot fix the problem by yourself, you should at least do all you can to prevent it from getting worse." Being environmentally friendly doesn't stop at using bio-degradable paint. PLAYERS C/A VERSUS 12 GRAMS Constant air is more environmentally friendly than 12 grams. C/A tanks aren't thrown away after thirty shots. However . . . RECYCLING Empty 12 grams can be recycled. They are made of high-grade steel and local scrap metal dealers will buy them. Old aluminum C/A tanks can be recycled. They can also be reused for other things; I have been thinking on having one turned into a lamp for my paintball shop! IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure the 12 grams and tanks are indeed empty, before they "go into the bin". Plastic bags and soft drink containers are recycled in some areas. If they are not recycled in your area, you should thing about using paper bags and glass bottles, they are the most commonly recycled items. Recycling also includes reusing things too. I keep the heavy plastic bags that paint (in the case) comes in. They're great for packing dirty and sweaty gear at the end of the day. TRASH BAGS Bring your own and throw your trash in it. Also, pick up trash that is blowing around your feet, even if it isn't yours. Offer to help clean the fields you played on that day. The Canadian Contingent routinely does a field sweep at the end of the day and cleans up the mess we left behind. Especially on 12 gram and stock days. BULK LOADERS VERSUS TEN SHOT TUBES Players are less likely to throw away a five dollar bulk tube than a twenty five cent 10 shot tube. I use ten shot tubes, but I don't throw away my tubes, because I'm cheap. OLD GOGGLES AND LENSES I use my old goggles for trips to the chronograph and the range between games. I have removed the mask so it doesn't get in the way when I try to hold my adjuster tool in my mouth. Old lenses can be cut and shaped to become lens covers for scopes and dot sights. You KNOW that will stop a paintball! ANODIZING AND PLATING I have all of my paintmarkers anodized to match each other. But it was done after a lot of research. I made sure the plater and anodizer properly disposed of any caustic waste chemicals by checking to see if their area had hazardous waste disposal programs in place. Most areas do, especially where their is a lot of industry. All of the custom shops I deal with have anodizing and plating sub- contractors who dispose of their chemicals in accordance with local and state regulations. FIELD OWNERS TIRES AND METAL DRUMS Make sure that you know where old tires are to go when they are being disposed of, should you decide you have to get rid of them. As an alternative, think about using hay bales, instead. They're biodegradable. Metal drums should be properly flushed at a hazardous waste disposal facility before they get to your field. You don't want any residual chemical leaching into the local water table. Old drums should be brought to scrap metal dealers. TREES Don't cut trees down if you don't have to, especially the larger and older trees. Brush clearing is healthy for wooded areas, as long as you don't go over board. Use the brush to make bunkers and other cover. SECOND-HAND LUMBER If you're going to be raising structures on your fields like buildings or bunkers, make use of second-hand lumber. Also use lower grade lumber. Not only is lower grade lumber cheaper, but now ALL of that tree is being used, not just the "good parts". While some suggestions may be impractical for you (not all players live in areas with recycling programs) you should do your best to do your part. It's really a matter of self preservation; no environment, no paintball! HOW TO RATE A FIELD INTRODUCTION This rating guide will help you rate your home field and other fields you have visited. At the end, I rated my favourite fields. The criteria is very simple, they all encompass how much fun it would be to play at the field being rated. This will also help you if you're shopping around for a new field to go to. QUESTION # 1. IS THE FIELD SAFE? Safety is the primary issue in paintball, as far as I am concerned. They should enforce chronographing, mask and barrel plug use. And I mean ENFORCE it. QUESTION # 2. IS THE STAFF KNOWLEDGABLE, FRIENDLY AND HELPFUL? What good are they if they're not? I mean, it's a part of their job to help players out, to be friendly and courteous and to have some knowledge of this sport. Otherwise they're just players in blaze orange clothing with no markers. QUESTION # 3. DOES THE FIELD HAVE DECENT PRICES? Let's face it, you've already shelled out big bucks for all your gear, do you want to go through the gross national income of a large industrialized nation in order to play? Playing fees, paint prices, rental fees and other costs should be reasonable. They also should help the owner make some money, too. Let's Face it, it is a BUSINESS, you know. QUESTION # 4. DOES THE FIELD SERVE AN ADEQUATE LUNCH? When I say adequate I mean can you EAT it? It doesn't have to be fancy. I've had lunches that ranged from barbecued hot dogs to steak dinners complete with baked potato! QUESTION # 5. DOES THE FIELD HAVE VARIED PLAYING AREAS? They don't have to be fancy, but you should have some variety. I mean a speedball field is an open pasture with barrels and pallettes. If they have the area, it's easily set up. Other playing areas could vary by terrain, thickness of the woods, and what have you. QUESTION # 6. IS THE RENTAL EQUIPMENT WELL MAINTAINED? I've seen rental equipment that first-time players (who don't know anything about the game) refuse to use. The goggle lenses should be clean and in good condition, the markers should work well. QUESTION # 7. DO THEY GIVE A THOROUGH ORIENTATION BRIEFING? Remember this briefing is for players who never been to the field and those playing for the first time. They have to cover everything. They should also make the briefing mandatory for ALL players to attend. QUESTION # 8. DO THEY SEPARATE GROUPS BY EXPERIENCE LEVEL? If they don't, they're condoning newbie bashing. It's okay to let a few experienced players in, as walk-ons, but they should be split up between he two teams and made to drop to a lower level of technology and told to "take it easy" on the customers. QUESTION # 9. DO THEY SELL QUALITY PAINTBALLS? I've been to fields who sell crappy paint. I didn't have fun. QUESTION # 10. IS THE STAGING AREA/CAMP CLEAN? This is a good indication of how professional the operation is. It doesn't have to be spotless, but there shouldn't be big piles of old wood and trash lying around. SCORING: One point for every "yes" answer. If the answer for Question # 1 was "no" the total score is zero. THE FIELD'S SCORE: 0-1, no use playing there. 2-4, this field is safe, so at least you'll go home with all the blood and body parts you came with. It's better than nothing. 5-7, the majority of North American fields fall into this category. 8-10, Congratulations! Can I come and play at your field too? CONCLUSION Okay, let's face it, if the field scored poorly, you're not going to have very much fun there. If the field scored a big fat "0", make sure nobody goes to play there. Years ago, you had quite a few shoddily run fields. The problem was that there was little competition and subsequently it was that lousy field, or no where. Now, we have thousands of fields, and players simply will not go to a field that is not fun to play on. Sometimes even if it's the only field in town. THE ESSENTIAL THINGS FOR A GOOD DAY OF PAINTBALL INTRODUCTION There are things you absolutely HAVE to have, in order to make your paintball day a pleasurable experience. There are pitfalls you can't avoid. Running out of luck, getting outclassed by other players, having no innate coordination, being old and feeble, lacking the brains to know what is a good move and what is a bad move, falling on your . . . wait . . . that's just ME. Sorry. Anyhow, there are things you can control, whatever your personal shortcomings. Here's what you REALLY need. RELIABLE MARKER Marker problems are the WORST. I know, I've had my fair share. If you don't have a marker that works, you might as well just wear a blindfold under your goggles and hope for the best. Luckily for you, there are many markers to choose from, and the lion's share of markers available today are robust, easily maintained and reliable. Pay careful attention to the manual, if you have one. It's that booklet that comes with your marker, the one that tell you how to operate and maintain it. I know, I know, you're real smart and you don't need no book from the folks who DESIGNED the marker to tell YOU how to operate it. Trust me, I'm real smart too, I read the manual. Try reading it, you'd be amazed. Also, try cleaning it. Try using oil. Try not to fling it around like it's a war club. There aren't too many markers that can't take punishment, after all they're made for us ham-fisted paintballers. That doesn't mean you can use it to break open coconuts and expect it to work. Watermelons, maybe; but never coconuts. (Not that I'm speaking from experience in either example, it's just something I KNOW, okay?) GOOD LOADER Once you have your marker in good working order the next stop is your loader. It's job (in case you're wondering) is to feed balls into the breech in order for your marker to shoot them at your opponents. If you have a pump marker or an older semi, there's enough vibration to stir the balls up and make them feed. If you have a newer model semi, you might need a motorized loader. Ask the manufacturer, they'll know. However, don't buy a motorized loader if your marker does not require one, it's a waste of money. You see, the most difficult things to make flow down a smaller tube from a large container are spheres. Cubes and other three dimensional shapes readily flow. That's why sand flows through an hour glass so well. Also, the shells on paintballs can also get slightly sticky. Of two balls can meet over the hole, they're supposed to drop through, and jam -- they will. Harmonic vibration helps to prevent that from happening. The motorized loader takes the place of harmonic vibration in newer markers, especially the electro- pneumatic ones. NO FOG GOGGLE LENSES Fogging is a major problem for some people, or some areas. Climate and perspiration take their toll on goggle lenses. Get anti-fog lenses (the double paned ones), or anti-fog sprays or inserts. It's amazing how well you can play when you're not looking through waxed paper. BARREL PLUG The barrel plug should fit tightly into the barrel. Here's my rule of thumb for plugs. If you don't grunt when you take it out, it's not tight enough. Some barrels may need their own plug. When you buy a barrel, try some plugs in it, at the store. Buy the plug that fits tightly. Barrels with slick interior surfaces, like teflon and industrial hard chrome need the plugs to be tighter still. The slick surface not only allows the ball to slip through easier, it allows an improperly fitting plug to come out easier as well. DO NOT USE A SQUEEGEE AS A BARREL PLUG. PROPERLY STORED PAINT I don't care WHO made the paint. If it wasn't stored properly, it's almost worthless. Now, there isn't much you can do but go to fields who store their paint properly, or buy it from stores who do. If the shell is dimpled, have flat sides or is brittle, chances are it was stored improperly. It is your right to complain about this, but politely. Don't let folks sell you paint that's been in their cousin Skeeter's truck over the winter. Many paint manufacturers now put the "birth date" of the paint on the case. Check it. SAFE FELLOW PLAYERS It's not that much fun to play with a bunch of yahoos who won't play safe. Not only is it a health hazard, it's uncomfortable to sit in your hot car, with the windows rolled up, between games and at lunch. (I've been there. If this happens to you, as long as you're in your car, start it up and go home.) SENSE OF HUMOUR The military taught me something very important. There are two things no one can take away from you: your birthday and your sense of humour. (I can stand not to have another birthday, but I like to maintain a good sense of humour.) Things WILL go wrong. It is the one cardinal truth of paintball. As long as you can see the lighter side, you'll be okay. Be prepared. A poorly functioning marker, a loader that jams, fogging goggles, loose barrel plugs, crap paint, unsafe players or a bad attitude will ruin your day. Anything else that goes wrong is just a minor problem. WHAT EVERY PLAYER NEEDS INTRODUCTION Over the years, I have found that there are some things you realize you don't have, when you most need them. A little bit of forethought goes a long way, but you can't foresee everything that can go wrong. Fortunately for you, A LOT has gone wrong for me and I have learned what every player needs to make their paintball day a little easier. PARTS KIT Basically you need AT LEAST one of every spring, screw and o- ring your marker requires to function. You can purchase a ready made kit from many retailers. You can also get parts kits from some marker manufacturers. You can also figure out what you need and go and buy the parts and make your own kit. You should have a parts kit for each different type of marker you own. Let's face it, if something breaks, falls off or gets lost, you're going to have to spend the money to replace it anyway. It's a lot better if you have the desired part handy and miss one game while you fix your marker. (Here's a hint: When you buy things like field strip screws, spring sets, and the like, buy TWO. The second one goes into your parts kit.) OWNER'S MANUAL I have a photocopy of every manual I have for my markers. I can't remember everything and it helps to have the reference handy. I use photocopies so my originals don't get messed up at the field. SPARE MARKER I've always said that the best thing to have in your tool kit for marker break downs is a back-up marker. Let's say you've upgraded to a higher tech marker. Keep your old one as a back-up, in case your newer toy breaks down. I always bring an extra pump or stock gun out when I play. If you are not fortunate enough to have more than one marker, be prepared to have the funds to get a field rental. (Hey, it may not be the greatest marker in the world, but do you want to watch or do you want to PLAY?) You also might want to hold onto that old non-motorized loader, just in case your new fangled one "gives up the ghost". PAPER TOWEL A roll of paper towel comes in very handy. I've yet to find a squeegee that can clean your goggle lenses well. EXTRA BATTERIES Extra batteries are handy to have on hand. Have spares for everything you own that requires batteries to operate. Goggle fans, motorized loaders, sights and even some markers require batteries, and will not work (no matter how much you swear at them) when the batteries run dry. (Some day someone is going to invent the "battery power bar" and save players from having to turn seventeen pieces of electronics every time a game starts.) SPARE GOGGLE LENS I had my goggle lens crack this year, I was basically out of action after that. Luckily a fellow Club member loaned me his spare goggles. A set of spare lenses would have taken a bit of stress out of my day. LENS CLEANER I have a small plant spray bottle I use to clean the large globs of paint I always seem to have on my goggles. You can also get some manufacturer's recommended goggle cleaner. I prefer water, because it's CHEAPER. CHANGE OF CLOTHES I always bring a complete change of clothes. It's nice to get out of your grimy gear at the end of the day. This includes shoes and socks. EXTRA BARREL PLUG(S) What happens if you lose your plug in the playing area? You can't really bring your marker into camp without one. The concept of bringing an unplugged marker into camp should be as alien to you as the thought that fibreglass underwear is comfortable. If you have an extra barrel plug, or two, you'll always have one. Also, if someone hasn't read this article (for the life of me I can't imagine why) and doesn't have another barrel plug, you can toss them one of your extras to tide him over until he can get a replacement. I knew a player who took an extra barrel plug, drilled a hole in it and hung it around his neck with a shoelace. He kept it under his cammies, just in case. I do this now. BANDAGES Self adhesive bandages are essential for covering up minor scrapes and help prevent infection and further damage. SAFETY PINS This is something you don't usually think about until you REALLY need one. I've given more to other players, than I have used myself, however. Tuck them into your parts kit or tool kit. Speaking of which . . . TOOL KIT You should have all the tools required to COMPLETELY disassemble your maker. This also includes air fittings. Be sure to include electrical tape, teflon tape and oil in your tool kit. To make the kit smaller, I suggest getting one of those screwdrivers that take the interchangeable tips. That way you can have a complete set of screwdrivers and allen keys in one tenth the space. Don't forget adjustable wrenches, vice grips, pliers and wire cutters. CONCLUSION Most of this stuff I mentioned is relatively inexpensive. (With the exception of the goggle lenses, but how much are YOUR eyes worth? Mine are priceless, so goggle lenses don't seem so expensive to me.) The stuff doesn't take up a whole lot of space, and the extra weight more than balances out the heartache you'd get if you didn't have it! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. HOW TO CUT COSTS INTRODUCTION I don't know about you, but I don't make mounds of money. I also have other silly things to spend it on, like food, rent, bills and other "nonessentials". Paintball doesn't get to see a lot of my disposable income. So I am forced to make cuts and spend my money wisely. AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES FOR MARKERS If you are going to buy ANY aftermarket accessory call the manufacturer of the marker and ask if they think the marker needs it. Belive it or not, many manufacturers will tell you if they actually endorse the modification. Kingman International, the makers of the Spyder semi, will often recommend aftermarket accessories on their website. Many manufacturers know that aftermarket accessories are a way of life. Just remember, not all advertisers who claim to be recommended by the manufacturer are telling the truth. Often times, the wrong aftermarket accessory will degrade the performance of your marker. Also, it may void the manufacturer's warrenty. Call and ask. SMALLER LOADERS The best way to cut costs is to use a smaller capacity loader. The less paint you have, the less likely you will be to waste it. Or . . . CARRY LESS PAINT So you want to keep that motorised loader that's larger than most of your internal organs but smaller than your ego. (That's okay, it makes a better target for me, anyway.) If you limit the amount of paint you use in a game, you'll go a long way to saving some money. I restrict myself to 500 balls per day I play. This is regardless of the fact that I'm using a semi or a stockgun. (Yes, I can go through 500 rounds with a stockgun and I can make 500 rounds last with a semi.) SMALLER TANKS Not only are smaller tanks less expensive to buy, they're less expensive to fill. Most places charge more to fill larger tanks. BULK PURCHASES Let's say your team, or club, all uses the same brand of squeegee, goggles, or even marker. Start making bulk purchase of the entire group's equipment. Many stores will give you close to wholesale prices if you buy a lot of one thing. STICK WITH CO2 If you haven't converted to high pressure air (HPA) or nitrogen, stick with CO2. It's going to be around as long as paintball is being played. We've been using CO2 since 1981 and we'll continue to keep on using it. Anyone who tells you that CO2 will eventually no longer be available in the paintball industry is "blowing smoke" and probably trying to sell you an N2 or HPA set-up. Besides, the initial cash outlay for a new system is staggering. If you need new CO2 tanks, or fittings or a remote set up, start asking players who are outfitted with HPA systems. They may be looking for someone to buy their old CO2 gear. Speaking of which . . . SECOND HAND EQUIPMENT Ask around, most everybody has stuff that's just sitting the their basements. (Mine's in the spare bedroom, and I'm not parting with ANY of it.) The best people to ask are tourney players. They win gear all the time (if they don't, make fun of them). They would be glad to sell you some of the gear they've won to help defer the costs of competing. Ask any player with a new marker what they used before. If they still have it, ask them how much they'd want for it. LESS EXPENSIVE EQUIPMENT If second hand stuff doesn't do it for you, please remember: You don't need the top-of-the-line ANYTHING (except goggles) to play this game effectively. STICK WITH WHAT YOU GOT Do you REALLY need that $400.00 semi? What's wrong with the one you have now? Do you REALLY need a new barrel, or do you just need to spend some more time in target practice? Is a motorized loader necessary for your brand of marker? LARGER GROUPS Consistently bring large groups (over 20) to your local field will get you noticed. Approach the field owner and make a deal. The best one I heard was, "If we set a playing schedule, and stick to it AND bring out twenty or more players every time, would you be willing to drop the price of paint (or entry fees, or rentals, or what- have-you)?" DEAL WITH LOCAL MERCHANTS Local business survive on your support. They will show their appreciation for your continuing business. If your whole team/club/group shops there, all the better for you. Paintball is a very expensive pastime. I've had a number of hobbies and they have all been expensive. Few hobbies aren't. I'm sure you could think of other ways to cut costs. None of what I have mentioned is too unreasonable a sacrifice. I don't expect you to buy out-of-production markers, use ten-shot tubes and stick feeders (like I do), but every little bit helps. I'll tell you where you should pay full price, at all times -- goggles, spare lenses and lens cleaner. How much are YOUR eyes worth?

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