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This is the story of our trek to
Tarcoola.
We left Pinnaroo, South Australia, on July 7th,
1934 during the big depression to build 20 miles of 'Dog Proof
Fencing'.
My late husband (Bert Simon) myself, my brother Keith O'Connor, and Stanley
Barratt, all of Pinnaroo, S.A., set off on the long trip to Tarcoola, S.A.
We arrived in Adelaide where we stayed over night at the Grand Hotel in
Hindley Street. We had a 1928 Capital model Chev truck with
all our gear & 3 months supply of provisions.
We were bound for work on 20 miles of 'Dog Proof Fencing', 70
miles west of Tarcoola, on Mulgathing Station. The owner was
the late H. P. McLauchlan the father of Mr. Byron & Mr. Ian McLauchlan.
After putting a day in Adelaide buying some tools & doing a bit of other
business we found 2 men who wanted work badly, as so many did in those days
as jobs were hard to find. We set off late in the afternoon on the second
leg of our journey. The two men we got in Adelaide were the Chapman brothers
& very decent men they turned out to be. We travelled up through Clare &
spent our first night I think at Gladstone, we camped the night there on the
outskirts of town.
Next morning we set off for Port Augusta, we had the big task of driving
through part of the Flinders Rangers, which was the only way to get to Port
Augusta in those days as No. 1 Highway was built in later years. The truck
did a good job pulling a 3 ton load which we had, up through the Ranges, but
we made it ok.
On arriving at Stirling North not far out of Port Augusta, we set up camp
for the night, under the stars. Next morning we were woken at day break by
the screeching of thousands of galahs. We didn't know if they were
screeching at us or thought we were a lot of galahs. However we had
breakfast & then set off into Port Augusta.
As we didn't know what to expect when we left the Port we decided to call in
at the Police Station as if any one would know, the Police would. When we
walked into the Police Station & enquired they said we have got the very man
here that can help you & believe it or not, but it was a Policeman we knew
quite well, his name was Constable Fred Lodge, who was stationed at
Tarcoola.
We knew him when we were working at Ambleside (now Hahndorf) he was
stationed at Mount Barker & he played football for Ambleside in the Adelaide
Hills.
He was a very fine young man'& very well liked. Constable Lodge was able to
give us a good description of the track, & I mean track, as there were no
roads out there then. After picking up some fresh food supplies we set off
on the rough trip to Tarcoola, we camped the first night from the Port at a
siding along the East West Rail line called Hesso. Next morning we were up
at dawn had our breakfast & away we went & during that day we had something
go wrong with one of the back wheels of the truck, so had to pull the wheel
off and found the ball race had cracked up. Luckily we had a few spare parts
with us & the men were able to fix it up, so we camped the night in the bush
as it was too late to set off again that day.
We got off to a good start next morning & soon came out into country not a
bush for the next 100 miles, as all there was were stones for that hundred
miles & when I say stones I mean stones. What they called a hundred miles of
'Gibbers' to cross, but we eventually made it to Oak Hills Bore, where we
set up camp for the night.
When we woke up next morning we found we had increased by one, as an
aboriginal boundary rider had ridden his horse in some time during the night
but he didn't disturb us. He was quite a nice young chap & we invited him to
have fried fritz & eggs with us all for breakfast, which he ate with relish.
No doubt it would have been a luxury to him after the tough rations he would
be on boundary riding.
We left him at the Bore & set off for Kingoonya, when we pulled into
Kingoonya there were quite a few aboriginals in the little town as well as
the white folk. They all wondered what had turned up I think. Maybe they
thought it was 'Hagens Circus' come to town.
After an overnight stop at Kingoonya we set off for Tarcoola. We arrived at
Wilpena Station at midday & the Manager allowed my husband to
do some repairs to the truck in the workshop there. He also provided us with
a meal for six of us which was very acceptable & very much appreciated. We
were also able to get some fresh meat from him & then we set off for the
last leg of our journey to Tarcoola.
We arrived there at nightfall & checked in at the Police Station to
Constable Lodge, which he did ask us to do to make sure we arrived alright.
After having a good old chat to him we were sad to hear that he did marry &
go out to Tarcoola & when his wife was to have here baby later both she &
the baby died at childbirth. We did feel so sorry for him, so he chose to
stay on as a policeman out there. We saw him each time we went into Tarcoola
for provisions off the tea & sugar train, which was about
every six weeks.
He was still there when we finished the job & left for home. We called at
the station to say good-bye to him but he had been called to Kingoonya to
settle some tribal trouble among the aboriginals, who were camped in their
whirleys on the outskirts of town. So we did catch up with him & he asked us
to report to Port Augusta Police Station when we arrived there, so they
could notify him that we made the trip to the Port.
We stayed in Tarcoola for the night when we arrived & set off next morning
for Mulgathing Station after picking up fresh supplies of food
from the Commonwealth Store in the Railway yards.
We travelled that 70 miles west over the roughest track we have ever been
on, it was a track of blue bush with drift sand around each bush & you have
to be a good driver to dodge the trees. We all had sore bottoms by the time
we arrived at the Station late that day believe me, but; at last we were
there.
When we arrived the young manager came out of one of the sheds to welcome
us, he was only 21 years of age & had 3 other men on the Station with him.
The Homestead was in the course of erection & who should be the builder but
a man we knew from our home town by the name of Percy Brighton. Poor man was
far from feeling well & was in a bad way with one of the biggest carbuncles
I'd ever seen, so I set to work to help him. Seeing as we had almost a
Chemist shop with us as well as a lot of Rawleigh's Products.
We had to have the necessary things with us as we were 300 miles from any
medical aid which was Port Augusta. There was no 'Flying Doctor' in those
days out there or even a 'Bush Nursing Hospital', which Tarcoola did get in
later years.
I bathed Perc Brighton's wrist with Solyptol disinfectant &
then cleaned the carbuncle with Hydrogen Peroxide, then put some
Rawleigh's Carbolic Veterinary Solve on it & bandaged it up for him
& told him to get to a Doctor as soon as possible. The Manager rushed him
into Tarcoola & put him on the East West Express that night for Port
Augusta. Mr. Brighton came back a week later a new man.
He finally got the Homestead built which was of weatherboard & very high up
off the ground. There was a small Creek ran past the front of the building
so they were prepared should a 'flash flood' occur at any time.
We camped in the sheds at the station that night & next day we filled, some
petrol drums with water at the Station Bore, which was equipped with a
windmill & tank. Then headed out to the start of the job 6 miles out into
the Mulga. After arriving at the spot the men unloaded our
gear & then put up a humpy which was to be our headquarters, it wasn't the
Hilton but it did answer the purpose of Sleeping quarters for my husband and
I also had half of it as a Kitchen eating house, complete with a wood stove
we took out with us. We had an iron, roof & bags sewn together for walls &
doors, very comfy really, the floor was mother earth, so I didn't have to
scrub that which-was a help. Our lighting was the Hurricane Lamps which
served the purpose.
We were lucky to find the water so good, it was almost equal to rainwater,
but the only fly in the ointment was that Bore was not equipped with a
windmill & tank so on our first, trip into Tarcoola a few weeks later we got
an old gold miner to make us a slush pump 4ft x 4 inches in diameter to haul
the water up. The men put a wire on to the slush pump & one man would walk
about 2 chain with the wire while one man stayed at the bore & as the pump
cams up he would empty the water in to the petrol drums & down would go the
pump for another lot & so on until all drums were filled, which would take
the best part of a day. (The water didn't taste too good at first, a bit
like petrol but we got used to the taste (Had to) anyway.
The other men camped in Tents a short distance away from our Headquarters,
Finally the job got started & found the going not to hard digging the post
holes but soon ran into a crop of Granite which the crow bars would bounce
off. It was impossible to dig by hand so an S0S was sent to
Mr. Byron McLauchlan for blasting material. The explosives arrived & for the
next 18 miles every hole was blasted. Fortunately my husband had had
experience with Gelignite & detonators in the Quarries in Pinnaroo, when
working on road works up there. Byron McLauchlan was on Paratoo
Station up North which his father owned & he was the man we had to
deal with.
At least the explosives made the job much easier. All the fencing material
was laid out along the fence line except the posts. The men cut 8,000 Mulga
posts 6ft 3 inches long with axes as there were no chain saws in those days.
It would have been much easier if there had been. Then there were hundreds
of foot posts to cut as well. The fence was 5ft 3inches high with 4 plain
wires & wire netting & a foot of the netting had to lay flat on the ground &
the foot posts had one plane wire through them & the foot netting tied to
that. Just imagine how many holes were 'bored with brace & bit. I shudder to
think
There was 60 miles of that fence to be built, we had the Centre section of
20 miles & two other contractors had 20 miles each, whether they ever
completed their sections or not I will never knew. It took us 7 months to
complete our section & believe me it was very hard work & conditions could
not have been tougher,
I put my pennithworth in with tying the netting on to the plain wires or
staying at the camp cutting tie wires in my spare time. I had our Fox
Terrier dog for company to say nothing of the Goannas. I had never seen so
many of those reptiles in my life. We never saw one snake out there, thank
heavens.
The posts were all carted out of the scrub & laid along the fence line with
the truck, how that old truck did work & never missed a beat. They made good
trucks in those days.
The men would all come home tired out at night, but after a good night's
sleep they were up & ready to go again next morning, they were a good team.
We did have a radio so we could keep in touch with the news etc.
I had never made bread before in my life but had to learn (the hard way). A
friend of mine from Pinnaroo gave me some of her yeast to start mine which I
did & it worked alright. The corks were popping out of the bottles & hitting
the roof which of course was not very high, so that night I made my first
batch of bread & it turned out beautiful & I got compliments from all the
boys, but that was the only decent batch I had, so no more compliments. Poor
fellows had to eat my bread or go without I but no complaints from any of
them. I guess they realised how I was battling to get the bread to rise
overnight as the nights were pretty cold. Its a wonder we didn't all die of
indigestion. I could make scones & cakes so maybe that's how I didn't get
the sack
The meat, listen to this & its true every word of it. We only had beef in
all that seven months from the Station as they could not have sheep out
there until the fence was complete, because of the wild dogs. They used to
run the bullock down with the truck, the Station manager & his men would
shoot a bullock as it was running & then they would get it on to the truck &
cart it back to the Station & dress it. Next day we would go in & get our
share which would be a hind quarter one time & a fore quarter the next kill.
We would have fresh meat for a couple of days & the rest we'd have to cut up
into small pieces & dry salt it as it would not keep for long as fresh meat,
We would hang it up in a chaff bag under a tree all day to let the moisture
drain out of it & at night we would lay it all out on a sheet on the tray of
the truck. Next morning up before the flies & put it all-back in the bag &
hang under the tree, you had to repeat that process until the meat was so
hard & dry you could not bruise it with a hammer.
It was terrible tack to eat but we ate it after boiling it in about 6 lots
of water to get the salt out of it, I don't suppose we could complain really
as the meat we didn't have to pay for & just as well). I'd have to try &
make all sorts of dishes out of it which must have passed as there were no
complaints, thankfully. The only time we had mutton was when we would go
into Tarcoola which was every 6 weeks for our fresh supply of food off the
tea & sugar train that came through. It used to serve all the
Railway men & families as far as the border between S.A. & W.A, You could
get anything in the food line off that train.
We would stay the night in Tarcoola & back to the bush again next morning 70
miles, We did have an arrangement with Central Provision Stores in Adelaide
to send us out all kinds of tinned meats & fish by train, which used to be
thrown off the East West Express as it past through a siding called
Malbooma 30 miles south of the Station & we or the Manager would
pick it up next morning.
Our mail used to come to that same siding once a week. One morning my
brother said how about some poultry for a change, meaning galahs, which were
out there in huge flocks so he got his gun & let fire, down came 13 of them.
So I had the pleasure of plucking & cleaning them which took me most of the
day. Next day I seasoned them all & put them on to roast for tea. They took
four hours to cook but at least they were a change from the dry salted junk
& didn't taste too bad even if they were a bit tough, (talk about living in
luxury.) No refrigerators in those days & we didn't have a cool safe so had
to have a substitute.
We dug a hole under the shade of the trees & put two 4 gallon kerosene tins
in it which had wooden lids my husband made before we left Pinnaroo, & put
on the tins then laid a wet bag over them & that was our fridge to keep our
butter and cheese in. It worked well too. Nothing was impossible under such
circumstances. We planned everything out before we went out there on that
job.
I also had kerosene tins for a 'copper' to boil the clothes & for water for
our baths. Our bath was the old galvanised wash tub which we all used (one
at a time) no saunas out there.
We used powered milk & condensed milk for all our needs too. Plenty of cows
out there, but you'd have to run them down to milk them. At least when we
bathed & when I washed the clothes we all came out whiter than when we went
in.
Every so often the Fence Inspector would come along with his team of Camels
to inspect the fence, his name was Mr. Mathewson, quite a nice chap & he
would always stop for a chat & have a cuppa with us. The Manager John Dirkin
often called and had a cuppa with me. He was only a young man, the age of 21
& no doubt enjoyed my home made cookies, as he was so far away from home.
Poor chap passed away some time after we came back from Tarcoola, he had T.B.
After the Homestead was built a nice little grey haired lady came out to
Mulgathing as cook. She came from Adelaide she told me. The
Manager being so young was ever so glad to have a woman cook housekeeper.
She proved to be a good cook and a very kind person. After batching for so
long I guess he thought it was like being home again. How long the cook (Mrs.Tanner)
was her name stayed on there after we left, I would not know. One thing I do
know it would be a pretty lonely life. I had my husband but she had no one.
She used to make we so welcome anytime we went into the Station from our
camp. No doubt to see another woman to talk to. I knew the feeling.
After a thunder storm of which there were many & a good downpour of rain it
was amazing to see how quickly the wild flowers would spring up & they were
just beautiful. There were all kinds & so pretty especially the Sturt Peas
which were there in abundance. I used to pick some & I would press them in
my letters to send home to my parents.
When our job was nearing completion we sent all the men back home on the
train & only my husband & I left to tidy up the job. Then we took some
photos & packed up our gear & left for hone. We called into the Police
Station to say goodbye to Constable Lodge but he was at Kingoonya as there
was a tribal brawl going on there with the Aboriginals who were camped on
the outskirts of Kingoonya in their Whirleys. So we caught up with him
there. He asked us to report to the Port Augusta Police when we got there so
as they could let him know that we arrived there safely, which we did.
We camped at Coondambo Station the first night & when we awoke
in the morning we saw the biggest mob of kangaroos I have ever seen not far
from our camp. Finally we made it to Port Augusta where we reported to the
Police there & they were pleased we made it without any problems. Sometime
after we arrived back in Pinnaroo we saw by the paper John Derkin the
Manager had passed away, he died of T.B.
We were unaware that he had anything wrong with him but he was. a very thin
boy. We were very sad to read of his death as we found him such a nice young
gentleman. No doubt he was out in that dry climate because of his health. We
had no accidents on the job thankfully & the only one that took ill was my
husband, the men brought him home on the back of the truck one day very ill,
they did not think he would make the trip horne but he did. We had no idea
what was wrong with him, he was in agony of pain & was grey in the face. I
had to work out what to do as we were 300 miles from any medical aid, which
was Port Augusta. However as I had a bottle of Rawleigh's Antipain oil
which could be given internally or used externally, (so it said on the
label). I gave him a dose of that & believe me it worked & in half an hour
he was up on his feet & pain all gone. So my nursing couldn't have been too
bad. He wanted to go straight back to the job, which was 6 miles down the
fence line, but I made him stay another half hour & when he went I walked
with him in case he took sick again, I had the bottle of Antipain oil with
me just in case but thanks to the good Lord it was not needed. The men could
not believe their eyes when they saw us as they didn't think he'd be back
that day. They made 'em tough in the old days, and just as well.
On our way home from Port Augusta we found it a big climb of 4 miles of very
steep road through Horrocks Pass. The old truck was battling
to climb that 4 miles & our brakes were not too good & every so far I had to
jump out & put a stone under the back wheel to stop the. old girl from
running backwards finally we made it to the top & from then on it was plain
sailing.
We camped at the small town of Melrose that night (at the foot
of Mt. Remarkable). When we awoke next morning we were camped not far from a
slaughter yard & boy talk about 'crows', there were literally hundreds of
them there. We knew that we had lost a lot of weight but if the crows
thought we were about to kark it they were greatly mistaken. We took that
trip on & we were determined to get there & back which we did.
After leaving Melrose we set off for Clare & took a bit of a detour to Blyth
not far from Clare to see my sister & her husband & family. They were
delighted to see us even if we did look like a couple of scarecrows & were
burnt as brown as berries.
We stayed a couple of weeks there & then headed for Adelaide where we stayed
for another 3 weeks before heading for Pinnaroo. After we were back in
Pinnaroo, about 2 months. My husband had another one of those bad attacks
which he had at Tarcoola & the Doctor said it was a stone in the, kidney &
sent him to Adelaide to the R.A.H. where they got rid of the stone, so I
guess he was very lucky to get over the first attack out there.
We didn't make a lot of money out of that job but it kept us alive as there
were no handouts from the Government in those days, only 'Ration
Tickets' & we did prefer to work for our living. It was a tough
seven months but we survived & that was the main thing.
Our parents were delighted to see us back home again & we to see them. I was
34 years of age when I went on that Treck and am now nearly 85 years of age
and that experience is still so fresh in my memory. It has taken me all
these years from 1934 to 1988 to get round to writing my
memoirs.
All this story is true and I think a great achievement.
Signed: Mrs. Constance M Simon
4 Brown Street NARAOORTE SOUTH AUSTRALIA
P.S. The fence job was twenty pounds per mile, I guess today
it would be worth thousands of dollars.)
Constance M Simon
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