First load and install the program, make sure the settings for the Browser IE 5.5 or if using an older computer or a wide bed print select IE 5.0, make sure your windows settings are compatible, and your printer settings are up ( see the FAQ�s page at livingsoft.com/ds4 or my previous notes under V4class and wide bed printers.)
IF you are using WIN ME or Win 2000 you may need to select a NEW driver for your printer from the company that made it. They often have an update patch to use for the newer versions of windows!!!
IF you are using IE 5.0 and your print registration marks are coming out 2 1/2 inches apart instead of 3 inches please click the button that says ADJUST SCALE which ONLY pops up IF you are using IE 5.0 this is on the print page just below the printable page width and length. It�s a one time button.
NOTE when you change your browser margins mark down what they are subtract the total of top and bottom margins from your paper height and the right/left margins from your paper width to get an accurate print!
Take the best measurements you can get with the highest degree of accuracy... use 1/8th inches.. don�t round UP the number to the nearest 1/4 or 1/4.. use real numbers.!!!
Type in your measurement chart and save it
The first pattern you should make is the basic bodice, jewel neck, front zipper closure ( to get a seam allowance to pin up the front!) short or long sleeve, 2 darts waist and side, 0 ease..
Then the fitted pant depending on your size 1 or 2 darts.. if you have a BIG difference between waist and abds/hip use 2 darts other wise use 1. you can do them up as knee lengths to conserve printing, paper and muslin. but always muslin your full length at some time!!
These garments are intended to check your chart.. they do have other uses which we will discuss some other time.
A tightly woven non stretch muslin should be used. ( gingham is a good choice for some)
Construct.. first the darts, then the shoulders, you can put the sleeves in flat construction ( this �ain�t� couture sewing but should be accurate.) then side seams. Leave the front open to be pinned up.
Check that the shoulder seam lies correctly on the shoulder.. trim or clip seam allowance at the neck edge and check where the jewel neck falls, make sure the dart lengths and take ups are correct and of course that the side seam is straight and bisects the body.
The side length front to back will be off about 1/4 inch.. don�t fret.. on THIS muslin it will do that.. it doesn�t do it on real garments.
(IF the side length is off way more than that you have a measurement chart problem and its the arm hole depth or side seam that�s whacked.)
Make sure the arm hole seams are where they should be and are smooth.
Make sure there are no huge wrinkles of excess fabric or tight tight puckers.
IT will be a snug fit... you wont have a great amount of wear ease.. its simply NOT planned in there.
The fitted pant will fit to be wearable for those that like �em close fitting. It may be too tight for some to wear but you should be able to wear them . IF your preference is for looser use the semi fitted pant for garments but do the fitted for your basic block.
Table of fractions to decimals for 1/8ths:
1/8 = .125
2/8 = .25
3/8 = .375
4/8 = .50
5/8 = .625
6/8 = .75
7/8 = .875
IF there are wrinkles.. pin them out.. Measure how much you pinned out
If you have it way too tight.. slit the fabric in the tight area.. let the fabric open up to its �needs� and measure the opening.
Look at the pattern and mentally or with a colored pencil draw on the key measuring lines.
Break the pattern into quadrants with a marker..
LOOK where your fit is off:
check to see which lines cross that quadrant
think of measuring lines as kind of Elastic... you can pull them longer or tighten them up..
For instance:
IF you pull the slope longer the shoulder point will raise and the shoulder line will be straighter
if you reduce the slope the shoulder point will lower and the shoulder angle will be more angled / versus ---
Once you have a good fit on the sloper proceed to garments.. there is NO need to over tweak the sloper.
IF you change the position of the shoulder point it is going to effect the ENTIRE bodice as just about everything but the bust span and center line is effected by the shoulder position..
General Pattern DRAFTING instructions:
USE the sewing options to develop the ease you wish to have. You must add ease each time you open the program or start a new design. It may �stick� later with a save mechanism that has not yet been developed.. follow the read me notes with all updates:
Use the advanced sewing option button to make other specific ease, curve corrections or modifications that effect your design. Click done after each page where you change entries.
You may use fractions on your chart but use numbers and decimals in the sewing and advanced options pages.
When changing a number on the chart or with the ease values always remove the entire number that is in there and replace it with the entire number you want.
The program currently holds a maximum of 11 charts ( sometimes 12) after that the file is too large and you loose ALL your charts!!!!
Under sewing and advanced sewing options you will see values in boxes that will NOT effect the pattern your are drafting. They only TURN ON when that option has been selected for that type of garment.
Leave the default values in there.
If you change values and then want to change again.. no problem.. just change the number.. if you want to change all the numbers back to the default go back to the garment selection page and click no garment under that garment type and all values will return to default.
BODICES DRAFT FROM THE SHOULDER DOWN
PANTS DRAFT FROM THE FLOOR UP!!!!
when comparing a bodice to another bodice or jacket lay one over the other matching at the shoulder line and secondary point is the apex line.
when matching pants.. turn upside down and match at the HEM and secondary point will be grain line.
this is true of commercial patterns are well.
EASE:
A general reminder there are two types of ease
Design EASE which takes the pattern from the basic block or sloper to the garment design
Wear ease which adds comfort to the design and is what you alter in the sewing options and advanced sewing options area.
When you add ease you are adding wear ease.. it is applied half to the front, half to the back.
IF you add 1 inch you get exactly one inch more applied /12 inch to the back ( meaning 1/4 inch to the pattern at the selected point) and the same on the back!
You can also add ease that becomes design ease but the new flare tool is doing a great job changing the design that way!
Side Seam lines vary from fitted to unfitted!!!
The fitted side seam line should ( but doesn�t that�s why we change the angle!!!) start in at the hi bust come out to the bust, come in for the waist and go out for the abd and hips.. with a certain amount added for the take IN by the fitting dart at the smaller waist point..
The program determines the largest UPPER torso measurement ( BUST usually) and the largest lower torso measurement ( hip or abd) then comes IN for the smaller waist.
The amount of ease applied to the DESIGN ease is established using proportional ease which means a set percentage of your measurement from your chart is used to calculate the base or default ease.
This will print out on your pattern when you select ease which turns on the body lines.
IT WILL NOT match the actual amount given at all points ( even though it says it does) because of two things.. one.. the line must be SMOOTHED by the program which means you won�t get LESS but often get MORE.. and it does NOT take into account other body points.. just the largest of each and the smaller waist.
NOW the unfitted side seam does the same thing.. computes the largest upper torso measurement plus proportional ease and the largest lower torso measurement but it does NOT come in at the waist.. it draws as straight a line as it can between the two points.
You will notice that sometimes the font or back is straight and the other is flared....this is OK.. it works up well.. the program is smart enough to note the difference and draft your front according to it�s numbers and the back according to its numbers... even on a plaid the side seam will hang straight and true and the grain lines will hang straight and true!!!
General Pattern preparation:
Check all seam allowances... The stitch lines are correct.. the cut lines are off especially on the curves.
True the side seams especially from the bust apex UP to the high bust. Make all corrections on the stitch lines then redo seam allowance.
True all side seams at hem length with side seams overlapping along the stitch lines.
Rotate darts as desired. The unfitted garment darts angle down from the under arm rotate to a straight on side dart, the back shoulder darts on fitted garments angle in.. straighten.
some of us don�t like that.. it will work for others.
My objection to it is not just the angle but the extra fabric under the arm from the dart cap.
Line up and tape pages according to the method you best prefer.
I use a large cutting mat which has a broad grid mark along the edge I set the first page along this broad mark and square it to a horizontal line..using blue painters tape I run the tape down on the outside of that grid mark and place top of page one at the first point..setting the pages up so the overlap still keeps the registration marks 3 inches apart I then mark subsequent pages down for a distance of 6 pages ( way long enough for me).. I then use those page marks as a quick method to layout the first row..
You can also use a paper punch to punch a hole thru the middle of one or two numbers per page to align your east west overlaps.
Find a comfortable method you can use sitting down...
STITCH lines ( the blue ones ) are correct!!! The seam allowance lines vary especially along curves and at neck edges.. use a seam gauge to correct them BEFORE cutting out.
� 2001 Kaaren Hoback, Dryden, New York