Pattern Preparation is imperative!!!
After choosing your design, checking it with the grid on and the ease buttons
selected and making any changes you want under options and advanced options
tape the pattern carefully and prepare the pattern before you cut.
Taping Hints:
Lay out your sheets per pattern piece and starting at the left hand edge form strip one,make sure your registration marks are exactly 3 inches apart.. use a grid matt or simply a strip of blue painters tape that is trued to form a long side edge, carefully tape strip one, now layout strip 2 and hole punch one or two of the centers of the registration numbers and lay down strip two and tape continue for as many strips as you may have.
Preparation after Taping:
All patterns should be given a quick measure at bust, waist, abds and hips and in your case shoulder length. to check they will fit. ( especially the first time you draft a silhouette)
Any side seam line that has even the slightest angle < or > to it should be smoothed to a gentle curve.
The side seams are overlaid at the STITCH line checked for length and shape and trued.
The arm hole is trued by laying down the pattern so the front and back shoulder lines are matched on the STITCH line.. neck line and arm holes can then be trued as well as shoulder length.
The hem and side seams should be trued front and back.
Seam allowances should be checked and trued ( they are usually off on curves but you may find some straight line corrections that need to be made)
When choosing a different neckline that opens the neck width check that front and back shoulder lengths are equal.
Optional changes:
When choosing a fitted garment with a bust dart rotate that dart into proper position IF DESIRED ( since the length is already IN the side seam no need to slash close and move.. just redraw in the right place and scribble out the printed one.
For the unfitted garment ALSO simply draw a new line that is pointing at the apex as the top or middle line of the dart, measure the dart width of the printed dart and redraw.
The big issue here is that there is a slightly over sized dart cap on both these darts.. fold the darts as they are to be stitched and cut the side seam straight forming a new dart cap.
IF the area of the side seam above the bust apex extends outwards it needs to be corrected IN towards the high bust position. If you leave this as is you may have some unwanted excess fabric under the arm.
Look at your chart take the bust front and subtract the high bust measurement.
ie 24 minus 23 = 1.. divide that in two = 1/2
Move the stitch line under the arm in at least 1/4 inch up to one half inch... you will then need to correct the sleeve underarm exactly the same amount.
Now flip the front pattern piece over the back to true the back side seam.
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� 2001 Kaaren Hoback, Dryden, New York