Ÿ Check to see that you are getting sufficient EASE at key body points.

Ÿ Use the grid and EASE buttons to determine above.

Ÿ Check Seam Allowances

Ÿ Check curves at neck arm hole and crotch

Ÿ MEASURE arm hole depth, bicep width, sleeve cap height

Ÿ Walk sleeve around arm hole to determine cap ease.  Punch new notches thru sleeve and arm hole.

Ÿ FOLD all plackets and hems and cut while folded

Ÿ ROTATE SIDE and BUST darts into true side dart position with the TOP line

Ÿ FOLD all darts as they will be stitched with the side dart fold line to the wrong

Ÿ Cut the side seam true while the darts are folded

Ÿ True Hems at side seams especially if front or back is one straight, one angled

Ÿ On the Princess dress make sure there are NO sharp angles.. smooth to a gentle

Ÿ Double check that shoulder lengths front and back match

Ÿ Dart tip from apex point.  Use a ruler placed under your arm from arm pit out toward breast. Press the  ruler gently into the breast.  Where it stops touching is where your dart should end. Mark and Measure the distance to apex. Use the advance option tool to set this distance for all side darts.  ONLY the French dart can invade the bust circle.

Ÿ Dart Take Up (pinch) on fitted garments . If you are getting a diagonal fold from apex to side seam increase the dart take up or pinch. Measure this on you muslin. Change the dart pinch accordingly.  It will be different on fitted versus unfitted garments.