View the Pants draft:
Let’s start with this concept of how the pants draft.....
Take a 1/4 scale print out and turn it upside down so hem is at top.....
(this is the way we read left to right top to bottom and this is how the pants draft so might as well look at it that way.
Draw a line up the center .. lets work the front first from hem to waist........that’s the floor to waist measurement and lets define center.....its NOT the middle of the pantits where the center front will line up when you put two front pieces together
so its virtually in line with the curve part of the crotch curve
Ignore the grain line.......for now.
The floor to waist CENTER defines the entire length of the pant
the floor to inseam defines the depth of the rise
and the floor to waist side defines the outseam length
these numbers very much hit their mark.
IF you measure from the horizontal line which is at the crotch level to the waist straight UP the green line that’s your depth of RISE at the front.. it will and should be different from the depth of rise on the back.
Do the same for the back
Once again ignore the grain line for right now.
You can clearly see that MY floor to waist front is shorter than my back so MY rise is different front to back.
I have a slightly tilted front waist.. your pant pattern probably looks different from mine
THAT'S OK!!!!!!!!!!
IF the over all length of the pant from hem to waist is tooooo short change your floor to waist measurement at THAT point . Ie. if the pant is too short at waist front FROM the floor change the f/w FRONT
BUT if the pant length from the floor is GOOD but you have too short a rise or too long a rise.....this is the INSEAM value you have in there.
I know you measured the floor to waist a 100 times and it still reads XX.....but , you may be one of the people where a straight up and down taut tape measure is not going to give you the length you need for that tush, belly or thighs!!!!!!!!
How much you contour to the body is very much dependant on your body shape
Numbers alone wont do this for you. .It’s an “eyeball” thing. so if the pant is too short...lengthen the number!!!!! Lengthen it by what you are too short. (The DS number cops are not coming to your house to arrest you for changing a “true“ but invalid number!!!
It may be barely noticeable on the front but very noticeable on the back ( or vice versa).
The inseam measurement is taken at the “rose” from the floor....if it is taken too far forward it will be short.. too far back it will be long.
IF the person being measured doesn’t try and sneak a peak at what you are doing....I’d be amazed... I catch almost every lady trying to see what I’m doing at this measurement ( human defense mechanism.. I’m sure)
Make sure you have the” measuree” standing straight chin up looking forward.
By the way I used the rose body depth measurement to set my crotch fork extension.
Ok.. what the heck is that??
If you put the 1/4 scale print out front and back side by side with the crotch points overlapping at the stitch line you get the crotch U.
The front U if almost straight up n down but the back part of the U is angled and should be slightly!
If you look at this you can imagine an old fashioned two tine fork......with the inseam being the handle, the front crotch being one tine, the back crotch being the second tine and the area from the curve to the stick out extension part being the extension.
How wide the torso is across the bottom part of that curved U and the amount of the extension on the front piece versus back piece is what the body depth measurement is all about.
So here is the formula once again.
You have a front crotch length and a back crotch length.. taken using the rose method......three tapes tied together at ZERO.....one tape goes up to back waist, one tape goes up to front waist and one drops to the floor for inseam. I tied these tapes together using a small silk rose...and ask ladies to please put the rose on the rose. (thus the name rose method)
IF you put your hands so your thumbs extend to meet and fingers are up in the air you can make a U.
How wide across the U is at the bottom represents the body depth....
If you curve your fingers you can make the U wider or narrower to contour to the torso.
Mike and Bob at a Susanville workshop came up with a brilliant plan to measure the body depth. to further customize the fit.
When the body depth was first put in the program the default was set at 25% Front 75% back..and this proved inadequate.
Studying user response the percentages have now been altered!
BUT.. you still may need to refine it.
To make sure your inseam bisects the middle of the inside leg you can compute the actual split you like best and enter that in advanced options.
Here’s how:
Take your chart crotch front ( now rose front) example 12 divide that by total crotch length ( add front and back together.. mine is 14.75 back) that's 26.75
12divided by 26.75 =44..xx%
14/75/26.75=55%
round the 44 up to 45
now take your body depth.....mine is 10.25 (enter this now on the bottom left of the chart under version 4.64)
multiply 10.25 times 45% to get the number for front 4.6125
multiply 10.25 by 55% to get 5.637 for back
enter those numbers under advanced options.
What this changes is the amount of the extension of the crotch FORK on the front and back....or the crotch SPLIT.
© 2002 Kaaren Hoback, Dryden, New York, www. patrns4u.com