Creating a Lining Pattern for your Fur Coat or for that matter ANY Coat or
Jacket
GLOSSARY:
Single Lay.. making a full pattern piece for the entire back
NAP: fabric with surface texture such as fur, velvet or other PLUSH fabrics where the texture lays in ONE direction
Lining: a separate pattern that will LINE the inside of the jacket
Interfacing sewn in or fused in fabric such as a pellon or HTC product to stabilize the fabric
Interlining: Fabric added by basting to the fashion fabric to add additional support or warmth.
Choose your design carefully to be as simple as possible.. NO darts, minimum fussiness. Let the fur speak to the design.
Make 25% print outs with your choices and tape them together to get a good VIEW of what you have chosen.
Decide what you want to FACE the project with other than fur which would be too BULKY
If you wish to line to the edge do NOT follow the instructions where you cut the lining separate from the facing.
If you have a fold or roll out type collar where the facing will show from the garment side prepare a separate facing as described below.
If you are going to line the garment so it closes up tight to a jewel neck with attached collar simply prepare your lining pieces with a 1/8th inch smaller seam allowance so the garment rolls TOWARD the lining.
Print 1front for fabric one front for lining
Print a left and right back to be taped as a single lay
Print a facing
Directions for a cut on facing that requires a shaped lining:
First Print the pattern Pieces for the front, Back and Facings and Print BOTH LEFT and RIGHT SIDES of the Collar and Jacket BACK,
and TWO jacket Front pieces.. one will be used for your fashion fabric.. the other for the lining. Clearly mark ONE fur and the other LINING.
Print ONE extra back piece and mark as lining.
Total pieces printed and Prepared:
TWO (2) Fronts one marked fur the other marked lining
One facing
1 back neck facing
3backs left and right, and one additional back marked lining ( this can be cut on the fold!)
It is NOT necessary to treat ALL jackets or coats as a single lay only patterns with a strong design such as a PLAID , or fabrics with NAP such as the FUR.
This is so you can cut your pattern as a single lay instead of on the fold.
Prepare the pattern pieces carefully ( see Preparing your pattern on the web page under DS4 Classes) Make sure all seam allowances are TRUED, the side seam lengths are TRUED and the shoulder Lengths front to back are TRUED and correct as needed the back neckline to SMOOTH it.
IF the pattern you have chosen has a bust or side dart, fold it out and retrue the length... of the side seam . You DO NOT want a side or bust dart on a fur coat!
To fold out this dart fold in the direction it is to be stitched, tape carefully closed, cut UP from the hem in a straight line to the end of the dart point the pattern piece will now lay flat.
NOW you MUST redraw the side seam line as you have rotated the bust dart to the waist dart area.. draw a straight line from the underarm to hem and along the stitch line, true your cut line and seam allowance and cut along your trued cut line.
You may if desired retain the bust or side dart on the lining.
Align the center back pieces of the jacket on top of each other and tape together.( Do not cut off the excess paper on the center back seam so you can help align the overlay)
NOW.. Lay down your facing and �finesse� it onto your jacket FRONT checking length and around neckline.. true as necessary.
Once the facing piece has been prepared lay it down on the LINING front piece, matching the front edge, trace the facing piece inside edge and curve on your lining piece with a pencil or marker .
ADD a seam allowance of 1/2 inch ( 1/8 inch smaller than the front along the new line you just drew... and cut away the front which includes the facing area. You will be attaching the lining to the jacket FACING not the Jacket itself.
Do the same with the back neck facing at the neck edge of the jacket back LINING piece.
ALWAYS add seam allowances to any new CUT edges...
IF you wish an ACTION PLEAT on the center back of your LINING add paper along the center back that is 1/2 the width of the pleat you would like... for a 2 inch pleat add one inch, for a 3 inch pleat add 1 1/2 inches. This pleat will be folded and stitched down at the top of the center back so that it opens and gives room across the back from the mid back to hem. This is NOT necessary but optional.
Mark your closures on the pattern front both right and left.
POCKETS:
On the jacket front decide WHERE you want to place your pockets. and what TYPE of pocket you wish.
Possibilities INCLUDE:
In seam on the side seam
straight down from the bust apex point using a welt with applied placket
Welts on a slant ( this is MORE difficult with FUR than with a woven such as wool.)
A horizontal opening with a flap may also be chosen.
Hand draw a design for your pocket shaping it to the type entry you desire.
Make sure to have it long enough and deep enough.
You can start with a rough rectangle of 7 1/2 inches deep and 5 inches wide and curve the bottom, use a pocket from another pattern, The entry point should be at least 6 inches long on a side seam pocket.
The pocket included in the program are applied pockets not IN seam pockets.
You can go back to version 2.5 and choose a pocket from the pants add on or print out the pocket attached to this file as a graphic and modify to your needs...
Mark the pocket placement on your garment fabric front. ( if inseam also mark the back.)
Make the same marks on your LINING.
You may wish to also add a pocket in the lining itself accessible from the inside of the coat/jacket.
If you wish to MONOGRAM you lining now is the time to layout the size and shape of the lining on your pattern piece.
I suggest doing the monogram before you finish cutting your lining piece so chalk mark around the front piece onto your lining fabric and cut it oversized.. after finishing your embroidery replace the front lining pattern and cut to true shape.
A good start to this project.. hints and tips are welcome and can be shared on the discussion list or we can start a separate list for those interested. If it makes the main list �too busy�
to sign up to a separate list please send you email addy to me at [email protected] with FS in the subject line and add me to fs list in the message.
� 2001 Kaaren Hoback, Dryden, New York
[email protected]