In preparation of Making your first bra using DS 4.5X please examine one of your current bras that fits well If you don’t KNOW definitively what YOU want there is no way to provide it.
I think this examination will provide some amusement as well as some surprise at the very many differences and construction materials in our all too NOT familiar bra.
Your “old friend” may well surprise you in it’s complexity. The fact that you can Get A bra to fit using the DS4 pattern is so incredible I’m almost speechless......
Now saying that may scare some of you off......please don’t let it.. the fact is that once you have “knocked” the fit issue and perhaps some design alterations the making of the bra itself is very simple.
Intermediate sewing and construction skills will be required. .nothing fancy!!!!
Teen and “training”, sleep bras can be made by anyone even with limited skills .using all stretch fabrics. (What .. why are they called training bras.....what are they in training for..?? the Olympics, a spelling bee?? what???)
First make some graph paper or buy some from a retail outlet....if you have a program that allows 1/8th inch grid.. please print some out.. usually 4-6 sheets are enough.
First trace your back/side band on the graph paper and note what the degree of stretch is in that band.
To do this please measure and mark three inches . Mark a pin at 0 and another at 3 inches then stretch this fabric on the cross grain ( length of band) over a ruler and see how much stretch is in there. NOTE if this is an OLD bra try and guesstimate how much stretch it started with!!!
NB* We are finding most power net side/back bands stretch three inches out to 5 inches. If you are using a non woven for the side back panel this panel has been designed to use with a STRETCH fabric.
NOW lay down the cup and using the graph paper measure how WIDE the cup is at the bottom, and how wide it is at the apex and how tall it is from bottom to apex...(you can place a straight pin CAREFULLY into the cup to mark the apex or use a chalk line....do NOT include the under cup bra band in this depth measure.
Take a tape measure and NOT stretching out the bra measure from opening to opening to determine the under cup elastic length. DO not include the hook and eyes or front closure.
Now.. fold the cup as best you can along the APEX point of the cup.
Measure the height of the upper cup.. Re-measure the height of the under cup.. the seam line should run over the apex.
NOTE the under cup depth is dependant on the BUST RADIUS on your chart.
The separation of the bust apex from apex to apex is of course controlled by the bust SPAN.
It is possible your radius measurement on your chart will not be accurate and should be adjusted.
If you have a full large breast please LIFT the breast so you can run the tape from the apex over the breast and under it to the chest wall.
NOTE if the strap connecting spot is STRAIGHT up from the apex or offset towards the shoulder... measure how much its off set by placing a ruler vertical over the apex and measuring over to the MIDDLE of the strap connecting point. This will be the strap offset you will use under options.
If you use a demi bra the default strap off set is 1.5 inches.
One other thing if you wear a demi cause you need to rather than want to you may find that the cup is not placed on the band so the bottom sits on the band straight up ___U--U___ but canted so the bottom of the curve is actually at the bottom of the side seam and there is a triangle of power net or elastic between the cups connecting them.. You then need to know how to place those cups and must make your own triangle. ( Trace it off your current bra)
OK.. while you have your bra in front of you examine it for the following support aids that may have been used in its construction.
First is it a front or back closure?
Our pattern bra is a back closure!
Second is it a sports type bra, padded bra, or cotton bra with quilting.. where are stretch fabrics used and where are wovens used???? Don‘t underestimate the power of a little “quilting“ to add to the support level or even concentric rows of stitching for support.
Third is there a bias band around the edge of the cup that appears to be attached before the back side band was attached or some other form of support “built in?
Is there thin lingerie style elastic around the upper edge of the cup and back band under the arm and if not around the cup where is bias binding used.
what is the width of the plush back elastic under the cup ( The wider the elastic the more band support you will have. and the bust should be supported BY the band not by the shoulders!
Is there a triangle of power net between the cups above that elastic band or do the cups attached directly from band to top of center front Look at the angle of the cups to the band.
Is this a full cut cup or a demi cup ( think push up bra or fancy dress bra with a curved cut out exposing part of the top of the breast for decolletage.)
How many hooks and eyes are on the back closure.....a set of three eyes and1- 2-3 or 4 “Hooks”?
Look at the inside of the cup is there a verticle dart from band to the apex
Or, is there a thin strip of very fine mesh “interfacing” stitched on the verticle to add support to the bottom cup ( often found in some Playtex bras)
Now after tracing the three pattern pieces of the bra you like.. upper cup lower cup and bra side back band you need to do one more tracing.. use multiple sheets as necessary..
Trace the bra as it is constructed.....carefully push out the cup to get the outside dimensions of the cup and how it is canted and the angle of the cup to side/back band and the back band all in one piece.
Some bras appear to run with the cup straight up and down with the bottom portion of the cup like a circle..
Some will appear to have the under cup rocked out towards the side seam and some almost block like in shape.
Now consider this.. it is UNREALISTIC to think the 2 patterns provided in the add on will be a dead on match for YOUR favorite bra.
That does NOT mean it wont work or can NOT be converted to what you want!
Of all garments made for women I can think of no other with as many alternate style possibilities than the bra.
You will wind up with a bra that fits comfortably....that does not mean it will wind up as the style you like best. UNLESS you change the design elements and that IS possible.. but be prepared to use a pencil and some very very accurate measuring and realignments.
Further you can not expect a bra with bias binding, under wire channels and wire and power net to work in muslin.....you “must” muslin a stretch fabric pattern piece as you have just noted on your own bra examination with a product of similar weight and stretch!
Finally remember there is more to this add on than bras.....though to me.. a good bra fit is worth the cost of the entire program plus some.. Many of you are paying in excess of $50 per bra....you can easily construct the same bra for under 15$.and .for those with more “standard styles” and sizes you should be able to get 2 bras per yard of fabric.. and make and construct several in a weekend’s sewing time.
There are also panties and cami’s and slips full and half in a variety of styles. and even a teddy. Remember you can use design ease off for stretch fabrics and design ease on with ease for wovens.
This is just a start.. but a fairly necessary start to get you a better than average bear fit. Understanding where you want to go makes it much easier to build a map for directions.
© 2001 Kaaren Hoback, Dryden, New York