Optional Tools
Let’s take a look at the optional tools available to us.. by selecting Options off the garment select pages you have the ability to add or subtract ease at the various listed points as well as changing flare, garment length, shoulder strap width, shoulder and neck extensions and much more... don’t forget there is also an advanced options page. We will examine those at a later date.
Please select a garment, and when you have completed your selections click on OPTIONS and simply print this page out using the PRINT on the bottom right hand side of the screen.. Use this print out to follow along.
When you FINISH making your selections click DONE and return to the garment selection page and then use the hand pointing right to move to the pattern view page.
Shoulder Extension Option:
Lets say you selected a blouse and you wish to see what is happening to the shoulder point of this design choice versus the basic bodice.
Many of us enjoy the high shoulder point considering it a “mark” of good fit.. while others are more comfortable with a known dropped shoulder.
When you have the pattern UP on screen select quarter for quarter scale, click GRID to get a 1 x 1 inch grid behind the pattern and then select SLOPER...
Instead of looking at the entire garment at once and missing some of the finer points look straight at the shoulder point area... if the RED sloper STITCH line is inside the blue stitch line of the garment style you know the shoulder has been extended measure the grid and you will find out by how much.
Now.. since you “are in the area” look at the underarm on the front.. is the blue stitch line below the sloper line? Actually it should be.. we don’t want to WEAR the sloper fit... but we can wear the high shoulder point !! OR we can extend the shoulder point!
When the shoulder point is extended the underarm line must also be dropped so you maintain the opening of the arm hole depth.. the program WILL do this automatically for you!
You can determine where you WANT the shoulder point.. this is a very big tool and critical for the fussier amongst us!
To move the shoulder point OUT away from the neck add a positive number to move it back towards the neck use a negative number.
IF you want the true shoulder point of the basic bodice and you find that the garment you selected has a quarter or half inch drop simply enter -.25 in the shoulder extension box and it will bring the shoulder point and adjust underarm point. The underarm will NOT come all the way back to the basic bodice position but the shoulder point will!
If you wish to extend the shoulder out a full inch or whatever number simply enter 1. The shoulder will extend and the underarm will get deeper.
Now.. lets go to the other end of the shoulder line........
NECK WIDTH OFFSET:
At the neck edge view the neck line choice versus the basic bodice jewel neck position.
When a neckline is dropped either by choosing a “distance below jewel neck ‘ or by choosing a scoop or V neck you will notice that the neckline also OPENS the WIDTH of the neck line.
This may be ideal for your design choice in your mind or it may be something you wish to alter.
To move the jewel neck opening wider use a positive number, to decrease the neck opening use a negative number!
You may also use the FRONT AND BACK NECKLINE DEPTH TOOL to lower (positive number) or raise ( negative number) the distance the neckline falls above or below the jewel neck.
YES.. ABOVE works too.... if you like a funnel neck you CAN HAVE ONE just enter minus and the number of inches you wish it raised...
BUT this is now overriding a number of factors.......you are now taking charge of some decisions the program would make down line of your choice... it is imperative that you carefully prepare this pattern and use a pencil to smooth lines... it is possible to change this into a cowl neck with a pencil, scissors and extra paper... maybe a class on that later.
Lets look at Strap width and Strap offset next:
This was originally designed to work with the swim suit strap... you can set strap width to anything you wish from 1/4 inch on up to your actual shoulder length... there is of course a break point it wont go beyond..
The position of the midline of the strap may be moved OUT towards the shoulder point ( positive number) or IN towards the neck (negative number) but it will work on all blouses and dress’s!!!
You can set the strap width ( shoulder width) and the strap offset... how far out towards the shoulder or IN towards the neckline you like the MID point of the “STRAP.. or shoulder ridge>BR>
Ok.. we have messed with the shoulder , shoulder point, neck opening front and back... lets go play with the sleeve.
There are a couple places to play with the sleeve.. one is on the advanced page so Ill save that for another “class”.
The first thing we can do is play with BICEP EASE.
I am finding that in versions 4.42 thru 4.54 that I like to add ease to the bicep which will change the sleeve cap.
First please think about a marshmallow...If you hold it between your thumb and index finger and give it a gentle squeeze it will puff out in the middle as you compress it.
You get the SAME result if you add bicep ease to the sleeve cap.
Default ease will be perfect for some and others are going to need to add ease to get a comfortable cap.
My findings in general are.. women with 10-11 1/2 inch biceps need to add 2.5 inches of ease, women with 12-14+ inches need 2.25 to 2.0 and over 14 need 1.5 to 2.0, over 16 inches bicep need 0......
That’s a general guideline.. you can experiment to get what you want and need!!!
The other place you can really play with the sleeve is the Sleeve Bottom Width tool.
This is tooo kewl... you can peg the sleeve at the wrist for a “bridal sleeve” and vent it ( negative number) or you can add to the bottom width and get a flare like the old angel, peasant blouses...........
Remember when you apply ease that you MUST take into account your fabric choice.
Using 0 ease or default ease off under advanced options is a great starting place for knit, stretch fabrics as the fabric will provide the ease.......when using a woven you still have to get your head thru the neck opening if you haven’t chosen a closure and your hand thru the sleeve at wrist OR you need a vent..
When you over ride the program with choices other than default you are making a decision and that decision means you are NOW responsible to true and check before cutting out your pattern. YOUR CHOICES are changing the design!!!
You are now responsible for the NEW design cause the program no longer KNOWS where you are going with this.
This is enough for one “class” but I will be adding goodies from time to time as my life permits...
I will continue thru the tools.. such as flare and flare pivot which is getting a lot of posts on the list right now with the skirts and dress’s within the next few days.
DO have great fun experimenting with on screen and quarter scale views of your pattern pieces........
Remember for blouses when over laying match the shoulder seams and then as a secondary point the bust apex cross hairs...........
For pants match at the hem.. hold upside down and the secondary point is your grain line.
GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!!!!!!!!
BR>
© 2001 Kaaren Hoback, Dryden, New York
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