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Emillie's World

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Betta (Betta splendens) Also called Siamese fighting fish
SIZE: Up to 3 inches, females smaller
TEMPERATURE: 78-80 degrees F
This fish is probably one of the most widely recognized anabantoids. The brilliant colors
and long fancy finnage of the male Betta has made it an aquarium delight for both the
beginner and advanced hobbyist. It's ability to swim to the surface and take in air makes
keeping the Betta in tiny fish bowls possible. Two male Bettas can't be kept together.
If place in the same aquarium they will fight intensely until one dies. Breeding the Betta
can be achieved with great sucess. The male begins the spawning process by building
a bubblenest at the aquarium surface. This nest which fertilized eggs are placed following
nuptial embrace beneath the nest. The female is best removed from the tank after
Spawning. Tank water temperature then can be raised a couple of degrees. This will cause
the eggs to hatch in 2 to 3 days. Males guard the fry, he can be removed about 1 week
after the fry become free swimming. Betta fry may be fed infusoria, newly hatched
brine shrimp, and whiteworms.

Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia)
SIZE: 2 inches
TEMPERATURE: 74-80 degrees F
The male is one of the most brilliantly coloured of all tropicals, with altenating bars of metallic
blue and red over the whole body. The female is much more dull in coloration. They
have peaceful dispositions and will rarely show any signs of aggression. They are not
a very active fish, so they appreciate a well planted aquarium to give them some cover. The
Breeding habits of Dwarf Gouramis are very similar to the other bubblenest builders
with one exception. The Dwarf will include a very deep substantial bubblenest consisting of
vegetation, twigs, and other debris. They are not fussy eaters but altenating live food
wih both frozen and dry foods is helpful.

Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster leeri)
SIZE: 4 inches
TEMPERATURE: 73-80 degrees F
The Pearl Gourami is one of the most praised of all the Gouramis. An aquarium that is
well planted and roomy caters to their somewhat shy personality. When fully grown
the male may occasionally chase other fish, but rarely if ever does any harm to them.
The 'feelers' actually modified ventral fins, are frequently used as sensory aids at
feeding time, when approaching other fish and to examine new items placed in the
aquarium. During spawning the Pearl Gourami doesn't induldge in aggresive behavior
that is sometimes typical of other related species. Once the eggs are laid the female
can be removed as the male will tend to the nest. The size of the bubblenest and the
number of eggs are both large. A thousand eggs uncommon.

Blue Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus)
SIZE: 4-6 inches
TEMPERATURE: 73-80 degrees F
The Blue Gourami for the most part will make decent community tank fish if not
housed with fishes that are too small. Any fish that has a mouth bigh enough to
eat a smaller fish say a neon, will eventually do it! They willingly accept most foods
whether they be dried, frozen or live. A large well heated aquarium supplied with
plenty of vegetation ensures the best opportunity for a pair to spawn.

Kissing Gourami (Helostoma temminicki)
SIZE: 5-12 inches
TEMPERATURE: 74-80 degrees F
The Kissing Gourami will grow extremely large in the aquarium and therefore should
be provided with large enough living quarters. For the most part they make reasonably
good community fish when kept with species of their own size. The Kissing Gourami is a
timid fish that dislikes a brightly lit tank. The 'kissing' action often seen between two
fish is probably territorial behavior. The protruding lips are also used to scrape algae
from the sides of the tank.They are ravenous eaters that require enormous amounts of
food which usually consists of brine shrimp, bloodworms, and varieties of greens.
Aquariums rich in algae are beneficial in catering to their vegetarian eating habits. If
algae is unavailable, lettuce or spinach make suitable substitutes. When all else fails
regular basic flake food is almost never turned down. They are a difficult fish to breed.
They are one of the few members of the Anabantidae family which does not produce
a bubble nest, although eggs float at the surface.

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Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare)
   SIZE: 5 inches
TEMPERATURE: 76-82 degrees F
    Angelfish are probably one of the most popular egglaying cichlids ever known. Millions
     of tank raised fishes are commonly sold all over the world. Beware that when purchasing
   this species it is best to acquire ones that are tank raised and not imported. They are
much easier to acclimate. The Angelfish is suitable for the community tank as long as
   its other inhabitants are also of the quiet and peaceful variety. But some specimens can
    bully other slow swimming or long finned fish. They swim at all levels of the aquarium.
     They become quite tame after awhile, recognizing their owner's approach at feeding time.
     Breeding is moderately easy. By feeding frozen brine shrimp, and raising the tank
temperature will usually encourage a pair to spawn. Modern breeding methods include
using empty tanks with no substrate. A piece of acrylic placed on an angle provides a
spawning surface for the breeding pair. Up to 1,000 eggs laid over a small area, during
    a 2 hour spawning period are fanned by the female while the male stands guard. The tank
water usually should be treated for fungus a a preventative for the eggs before they hatch.
   In some instances angelfish ignore all the spawning surfaces offered and deposit eggs
     on filter and heater tubes. The fry will usually hatch after 3 days. The parents will take
    great care of their young as they gather them in tight schools at the bottom. Later, after
the egg sac has been absorbed, they must be fed fine foods in the form of infurosia and
newly hatched brine shrimp.

Jack Dempsey (Cichlasoma octofasciatum)
    SIZE: Up to 7 inches
     TEMPERATURE: 74-78 degrees F
   The Jack Dempsey is very popular with the beginning hobbyist who has a fancy
   for any of the larger cichlids. They have incredibly bright light blue spots which are more
     noticeable on the males in comparison to the females. It's tankmates must consist of fish that
   are of compatible size, for any smaller fishes are certain to be bullied. Its common name
   honouring a great boxing champion, is a particularly accurate guide to its own
     belligerant behavior. They are primarily a lower level swimmer which needs lots of space.
If your looking for a peaceful fish the Dempsey is certainly not your best pick. A large,
    well decorated aquarium with plenty of rocks and driftwood is strongly recommended. This
     allows for plenty of hiding places and enough area for the Dempseys to establish their
    own territories. They have a hearty appetite like most of the larger cichlids pelleted
   cichlid food, beef heart, brine shrimp, and both tubiflex and bloodworms are taken. Spawning
    the Jack Dempsey is not difficult. Most eggs will be laid on stones or pieces of wood that have
   been thouroughly cleaned by the parents. 1000 newborn fry are not uncommon and they
    will grow very rapidly if raised on daphnia, tubiflex, and other finer foods.

Oscar (Astronotus ocellatus)
     SIZE: Up to 7 inches
     TEMPERATURE: 74-78 degrees F
     The Oscar is one of the most popular of the larger cichlids. Perhaps its the special bond
    that aquarist often develop between the fishe and themselves. Oscars appear to have a
more intelligent and friendly attitude than most other fishes. More likely it's their constant
   search for food that makes them appear so intent on following the owner's every move
outside of the tank. A spacious tank with a deep samdy bottom provided with rock, wood,
    and caves will satisfy the Oscar's habitat needs. They will often be seen habitually
    digging on the bottom of the aquarium leaving most plants uprooted. The Oscar is a
voracious fish and will eat almost anything including beef heart, dried food, and any live
food, such as small fishes and insects. The Oscar is like the Dempsey and must be kept
     with larger cichlids that are similar in size. Smaller, defenseless tankmates will be
   harassed and, in a more common scenario, swallowed.

Blue Zebra (Pseudotropheus zebra)
   SIZE: Up to 4 inches
    TEMPERATURE: 76-80 degrees F
    The Blue Zebra is certainly one of hte most popular of the African cichlids. It offers a lot of
     color and can be kept successfully in the home aquarium. The Blue Zebra is primarily a
    middle to bottom level swimmer. Although, only a small growing cichlid, this is one of the
     most destructive members of the family, both in it's attacks on other fish and its assaults
   on the aquarium furnishings. This species is very territorial and should be provided
    with a well decorated aquarium. The Blue Zebra is omnivorous and requires a balanced diet
    of both animal and vegetable matter. A wide variety of foods will be taken by the Blue Zebra.
   From flake, frozen, live and pelleted. Also a various of vegetable substances such as
algae, spinach, or lettuce. Breeding the Blue Zebra can be done only if you have a
   compatible pair. They are known as a Mouthbrooder. Mouthbrooders carry their eggs and
     young in their mouths. The newborn fry use their parents as refuge until they are capable
     of surviving on their own.

Auratus (Melanochromis auratus)
    TEMPERATURE: 76-80 degrees F
    The Auratus is another common African cichlid. The Auratus isvery territorial and
    aggressive fish that requires a large aquarium. Bigger tanks with well secured rock structures
provide adequate retreats. The Auratus, like the Blue Zebra, is a mouthbrooder and is
     easily bred by the beginner. They will accept all standard aquarium foods including frozen,
   freeze dried, and live food. Additional feedings of vegetable matter such as algae, lettuce,
     and spinach are also taken.

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Corydoras Catfishes (Callichthyidae) Size: 3 inches
TEMPERATURE: 72-78 degrees F
These small and peaceful catfishes are not only commonly available, but are easily
     maintained in the home aquarium. They are primarily a bottom to mid water swimmer.
    The Corys have the remarkable ability of swallowing air from the aquarium surface and
absorbing its oxygen through the intestinal lining. In the aquarium they may rest
     peacefully on the gravel bottom and without further warning will race to the surface for
    a gulp of air. Corys that make numerous trips to the waters surface may be the first
    sign that the water quality has begun deteriorating. Corys may be kept with varieties of
     tetras and livebearers. A school of at least 6 corys is best since they have a tendency to
   be uneasy and shy if kept alone. Corys will eagerly accept all kinds of flake, frozen, and
     live foods. They make an excellent bottom feeder cleaning up what has fallen to the bottom.
   Corys have an unusual method of group spawning. Three males to one female should
     be placed in the chosen breeding tank. Sexing the corys can be done easily. Females are
    generally bigger and broader than the males. Lowering the water temperature will usually
trigger spawning. Depending on the species of cory being bred, eggs may be deposited on
   plants or flat rocks, but most often on the sides of the tank glass.

Suckermouth Catfishes (Hypostomus) or commonly called Plecostomus
SIZE: Up to 12 inches
   TEMPERATURE: 76-80 degrees F
   Most of these are seen relatively small when sold in pet stores. Their claim to fame in the
   hobby is definately not their overwhelming attractiveness, but likely that they do an excellent
    job of cleaning the algae that will often grow on aquarium glass, plants, and rocks. Not only do
    they require large amounts of vegetable matter in their diet, but they will also feast on
live or frozen bloodworms and tubiflex worms. Although, it should be emphasized that without
     vegetable matter as the main source of diet they will not survive long. Most of the
    Suckermouth cats will become active at night following their nocturnal instincts. For the most part
     small suckermouth cats make perfect community fishes and will rarely show signs of
    aggression with the exception of an occasional dispute among themselves. On the other hand,
     larger ones may become aggressive toward smaller tankmates and may even be seen
    sucking the protective slime coating off of other fishes.

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