ECT Southern Affiliation Newsletter

Mt. Rogers, VA
June 4-7, 1999

ECT Southern Affiliation -- First Issue

FIRST CASUALTY:

Unfortunately ChicagoBill is our first scheduling casualty. Hopefully, we will be able to arrange an autumn backpacking trip also. In which case, all consideration will be made regarding CB's schedule. Before we entertain a follow up trip though, let's get the "First Annual East Coast Backpacking Trip" planned and completed before we move on to bigger and better things.

LIST OF PARTICIPANTS:

The list of participants at this time is small, but hearty. We have Pamster, Jen, Bambi, Jim D, and myself. I have everyone's bio, but haven't posted Jim D's yet. I will get that done in a couple of days. If you have any problems navigating the ECT website, please let me know, and I will try to make it easier. For what ever it's worth, in case you didn't know, my true bio is at the website, you just have to look a little bit to find it. I can't help it, I like to play games, and as Red Green says, "we can't help it, we're men."

ARTICLE ABOUT THE SOUTHERN APPALACHIANS:

If you get the Backpacker magazine, the latest issue (April 99) has an article on the southern Appalachians titled "Southern-Fried Tundra" on page 69. There is a sub-article within on page 72 that identifies "eight great places to get your fix of rolling southern views". The Mt. Rogers Crest Zone happens to be one of the eight featured. I haven't had time to read through the magazine yet, and am researching two Virginia trail guides for ideas on where we will want to rally at. I will develop a couple of preliminary itineraries with what information I can pull together. I'm a book freak, so if another trail guide draws me in, I will be referencing it also.

WHEN & WHERE:

As you can see, the date for the Mt. Rogers trip is June 4-7, 1999 (Friday-Monday). This date is solid. I will post a new thread at Trail Talk on Monday, titled "ECT -- Mt Rogers, June 4-7".

I will be leaving southeastern Pennsylvania around 6 am on Friday June 4th, and should be arriving at the rallying point around 4 pm.

THINGS I NEED FROM YOU:

Let me know how many people are coming with you in case there are party size restrictions at our site. I will be making a few phone calls next week to "Greyson Highlands State Park" and the "Mount Rogers National Recreation Area" offices to gather up some of the details regarding party sizes and so on.

Let's keep the conversation going at Trail Talk so we are aware of each others expectations. For instance, Pamster has already said that she feels we should set up a basecamp, and day hike from there. Personally, I don't have a problem with that. So let's get organized, and have some fun.

ECT 1999 -- Second Issue 4/1/99

I'm sorry, but the ECT has been canceled. I will explain later.

ECT 1999 -- *Real* Second Issue 4/1/99

APRIL FOOLS!!! I'm just a no good rotten person. LOL.

Well, it appears that winter is pretty much shot in the butt. It's not only evident in the budding flowers and trees, but in people's attitudes. Everyone is getting quite anxious and are biting at the bit to get to the Mt. Rogers basecamp. This is a good thing. But wait, we have two months to go! What to do?

Go take a hike!! My wife and I are going to the Shenandoah Valley (4/9-4/11) in VA. We don't know the specifics yet, but that's secondary. The point is, it's time to get into the right frame of mind. The hiking frame of mind. Speaking of which, I went to REI, and like Pamster, started to drool. I finally got my mapset at another place in King of Prussia, PA called "Franklin Maps". This place is like a candy store of maps. More drooling.

QUESTIONS:

There have been a few questions, that were answered at Trail Talk, but let's go over them again so there's no doubt. Dogs are okay, but have to be leashed. Teenagers? Why not? We just need to keep them away from the still. A few have been wondering whether the date for MR might be changed. There will *NOT* be any date change, it is solid. Too many people are committed to make any date changes.

MAPS 'R US -- BASECAMP & HIKES:

My greatest problem, was not having a mapset until today. JimD picked up the slack and jumped right in. He has outlined a few day trips for us. This way we have a choice, and can break out into smaller groups. Jim also has a few basecamps chosen. We will settle on a basecamp for Friday and Saturday by the next issue of this newsletter, whenever that is.

I believe it was Pamster who suggested leaving bread crumbs (trail ribbons) for everyone to follow to the still (basecamp). Jim and I are bickering over the color scheme of these trail markers, so stay tuned. There are others that offered support and help with phone calls and so on, but we are now in a holding pattern. Well sort of. The trip is mostly figured out except for transportation issues such as car pooling and airport pick ups. If anyone needs to be picked up at an airport, it would be adviseable to make such arrangements as early as possible. Some of us are beginning to make car pool commitments, and will be hard pressed to fit more people in our cars.

TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS:

If anyone will be arriving at the Roanoke, VA airport, I will be passing on I-81 somewhere around 2pm on Friday June 4th. The room in my vehicle may be limited, so this is a first come first serve offer for a ride. Please contact me at [email protected] if you need to be picked up at the airport.

AWAY TRIPS:

Some of us may want to take a trip for an overnighter away from basecamp. Of course there is an alterior motive for bringing this up. Along with the wild ponies at Grayson Highlands, I understand that *White Top Mountain* is another worthy visit, and may be 6-8 miles from basecamp. I don't think anyone has a problem with this, but I would appreciate the opportunity to meet everyone, so keep this in mind. Please plan at least one night at basecamp.

CHEF WANTED -- APPLY WITHIN:

Does anyone have any special *trail-wise* culinary treats or expertise? Do we have any budding *Sauce Chefs* wanting to show off their talents for a Saturday evening shindig?

MUSIC:

Leave all harmonicas & flutes at home. However, anyone who wishes to bring their electric guitar, is welcome to. LOL. Hey, it's just a joke ;-)

Lastly, I would like to thank everyone for all the kind words, and help that's been offered.

ECT 1999 -- Third Issue 5/1/99

There is one more issue of this newslatter to be posted sometime between May 20 - 25. If there are any questions that haven't been answered, please post them, and e-mail to [email protected]. All issues of this newsletter will be posted at the ECT website. This will allow late comers to be informed as to the status of the trip.

Well, my wife Lynn and myself have been out on the trail for two extended weekends so far. She is looking forward to warmer, and dryer weather. Can't say as I blame her. On the first trip (April 9-11) we were going to sneak a peek at Mt. Rogers, but that wasn't to happen. The trip never did go as planned, well except for visiting our daughter Lee Anne at college.

We went to southwestern Virginia to a place called "Little North Mountain Wildlife Management Area", and we found out how cold the southern mountains can be in the early spring. And in case you're wondering, it gets damn cold. Wet too. Anyways, this place is about 13 miles west of Lexington, VA on Rt. 39 at a place called "Goshen Pass". We will have to try it again sometime when the weather and us are more agreeable. There are two points of interest here -- well three, if you count getting "bewildered" (read lost). One is "Jump Rock", on "Jump Mountain". Supposed to get some good 360 degree views here, but I wouldn't know since we sat in the middle of a cloud bank most the time. Sometimes you couldn't see a hundred feet, which made staying on the trail a bit more fun and "interesting" (read bewildering). The other point of interest is "Viewing Rock" which is just off of the "Little North Mountain" ridge line. There you can get a nice view of neighboring mountains to the west, and Lake Merriweather some 1300 feet below. The "Little North Mountain" ridge line runs for another 13 miles north of "Viewing Rock", and may be a nice spot for some bushwhacking. (USGS map -- GOSHEN QUADRANGLE, VA)

Our second trip was to Michaux State Forest in Pennsylvania (April 17-19), which is the northern most portion of the "Blue Ridge Mountains". The "Appalachian Trail" winds its way through this state forest for some forty miles and has a very nice shelter at "Quarry Gap". As one thru hiker said, "with all the Rhododendron, and stream out front... even the white sand stones were raked. It reminded me of 'Blue Hawaii', and you expected Elvis to step out singing." Needless to say it was a beautiful area. The trip was less eventful too. (AT map 2-3, 4 -- PATC)

This place has a lot of pluses, with the "Caledonia & Pine Furnace State Parks" (read showers, bathrooms) attached to the Michaux State Forest. It has all the potential for an "East Coast Backpacking Trip" someday. Along with about a hundred other areas. We'll see. First, Mount Rogers.

MOUNT ROGERS INFO:

Mount Rogers National Recreation Area (NRA) was named after Virginia’s first geologist William Barton Rogers. Mount Rogers NRA encompasses 154,000 acres of National Forest land in the state. It was dedicated a NRA in 1966 to relieve stress from overuse of the Shenandoah & the Great Smoky Mountains National Parks. People have made references to the Mount Rogers area as reminiscent to the Montana’s Big Sky, because of its’ balds. Others have noted its’ similarities to Canada with its’ spruce-fir forest. It’s become one of the most popular recreation areas in the United States today, and can be a pretty busy place during the summer.

During the winter the area receives between 80-100 inches of snow. Good thing we’re going in June (see "Let It Snow", below).

The mountains of southern Virginia are 250 million years old. The Appalachian chain itself is 300 million years old, and some rock outcroppings in the Blue Ridge Mountains most northern range in Pennsylvania are as old as 600 million years. That makes the Appalachian Mountain Range one of the oldest on earth, and it doesn’t look too bad for its’ age.

LET IT SNOW, LET IT SNOW, LET IT SNOW...

...yeah right. When I called and talked with a very nice lady at Grayson Highlands State Park, she asked if we would be prepared for the weather. She went on to explain, although it is rare, the Mt. Rogers area can get snow as late as June 15th. Say what? It also gets rainy cold and foggy, so keep this in mind when packing your bag, and pray for sunny mild weather.

VOLUNTEERS:

Anyone wishing to demonstrate their skills -- or show us a few tricks -- with camping gear, please apply within. When we sit around the virtual campfire at Trail Talk, topics about camp stoves, water filters, tents, & backpacks come up. Go figure. I for one would like to see different water filter/purifiers demonstrated and compared. Does anyone else feel the same way about camp stoves? I have a "Whisperlite Internationale 600", and am willing to show others how to use it. Maybe someone has a competitors stove, and we could do a side-by-side comparison. One of the most difficult things for me to figure out, is how do you set up a 2 pole dome tent by yourself without looking like a complete moron, and having the squirrels laugh at you? So don't start thinking about packing light on this trip, I want to see someone demonstrate the uses of a kitchen sink.

WHERE TO PARK, WHERE TO MEET:

There is plenty of parking spots available at Massie Gap in the Grayson Highlands State Park. The cost is $1/day M - F, and $2/day Sat & Sun. If the office or contact station is closed, Virginia parks uses an honor system, and envelopes can be found either at the park office or Massie Gap parking area.

The state park office/contact station is open M - F 8 AM - 4:30 PM. Saturday hours run from 8 AM - 9:30 PM. It wasn't clear whether those hours are for the office or contact station or both. The Grayson Highlands office phone number is 540-579-7092.

The Mt. Rogers NRA office (540-783-5196) told me that they discourage the use of engineering tape as trail markers. So we must rely on our navigational skills a little bit. Good luck Tom Terrific. LOL. We are meeting at "Thomas Knob Shelter", which is approximately 3 miles from Massie Gap. Since the shelter use is on a first come first serve basis, I was assured that there was plenty of room in the area to set up camp.

WARNING: As we all know, backpacking is not for the faint of heart, and it isn't like going on an afternoon picnic. One of our most important assets while on the trail is being flexible. Everyone is pretty much on their own when it comes to finding the shelter since I don't have a scanner, and cannot post a trail map. If for some dumb reason there is a campsite change it will be posted at the shelter or a message will be left at the Grayson Highlands State Park office or both. If you can afford to, give yourself plenty of time to arrive at camp. In case you see something suspiciously odd while on the trail, you may as well investigate it, because it's probably our camp.

LEAVE NO TRACE:

When camping in the National Forest, please do your part to help keep our Forest clean. Practice NO TRACE CAMPING techniques by leaving the site in the same natural condition in which you found it.

Carry out all trash.

Bury human waste and toilet paper in a hole at least 8 inches deep and well away from a spring or stream; be sure to cover the hole over with loose soil after use. Believe it or not, there is a right and wrong way to burying waste. Maybe we can have someone demonstrate. LOL.

Avoid camping within 100 feet of a stream or obvious trail.

Remember, the water you use to bathe or wash dishes in may be drinking water for a downstream camper. So keep soap and waste water from cooking or bathing away from streams.

When building a fire, use only dead wood -- like Nigal -- lying on the ground.

Build fires away from trees to reduce forest fire hazards and prevent damage to root systems.

Use existing fire rings. If none are available, clear a small area down to mineral soil. Clear away any dry branches or leaves that could catch on fire.

Hang lanterns at least 12 inches away from a tree trunk to avoid damaging the tree's living tissues.

ECT 1999 -- Fourth Issue 5/22/99

This is it. The last issue of the Mount Rogers Newsletter. Well unless for some reason I get an inspiration that tells me to post another, but I don't think so. I already have some ideas on another East Coast Trip, sometime in the autumn. As far as Mount Rogers is concerned, if there are any questions that haven't been answered, please post them, and e-mail to [email protected]. All issues of this newsletter will be posted at the ECT website. This will allow late comers to be informed as to the status of the trip.

My wife an I have been out backpacking only once since Michaux State Forest (April 17-19). Needless to say I am suffering tremendously, so let me whine. I am working shift again. You see, my job is at a petrochemical plant and am a day worker... you know, normal hours. Well once in a while I need to cover shift when someone gets hurt, and goes out on disability. This doesn't happen often, but this year hasn't been too good. I am presently working a 12 hour shift that cycles every 28 days. I have a hard time getting out into the woods, so I'm going through a painful period.

In order to alleviate my pain, I'm going to Lexington, VA to visit my daughter tomorrow at Washington & Lee University. Of course I will visit the General BoB's tomb and give him yore regards. After that I'm going on a backwoods fix for four nights. I was reading through the June issue of the "Backpacker" magazine the other day, when low and behold, the Shenandoah National Park jumped out at me. Now I know it's springtime, but I figure during the week it will be just me and the bears. Cool. Did you know that the Shenandoah NP has the highest per square mile black bear population in North America? Me either. Did you know that as many people are killed every year from black bears as grizzlies? So, it was nice knowin' y'all.

I will be testing out my new (first aid kit) "Sweetwater Guardian" water filter. Never did use one of these contraptions before, so it will give me something to figure out while I'm in camp. I will also have the opportunity to look like a moron while setting up that 2 pole dome tent of mine single handedly. That's right folks, my first solo.

I can tell ya', I'm not going to Whiteoak Canyon where Forester describes his unfortunate trip on the "Shenandoah Chagrin" thread at Trail Talk. I will be either going on the "Overall Run/Heiskell Hollow/Knob Mountain Loop" or "Jeremys Run/Neighbor Mountain/Hull School/Fork Mountain/Piney Ridge Loop" in the north district of the park. Now, say that 5 times real fast.

Oh, I forgot to tell you... the 12 hour shift recycles after a 7 day break. Am I lucky or what?

ARRIVING AT MOUNT ROGERS:

When arriving at the "Grayson Highlands State Park", check in at the park office for any messages in case of last minute changes. You just never know. While there, pickup a map of the park, and drive over to the "Rhododendron Trail Head" parking area. Our goal is to meet at the "Thomas Knob Shelter" on the AT. Take the "Rhododendron Trail" about a quarter mile to the AT. Make a left onto the AT toward Springer Mountain, GA. Stay on the AT and you will eventually get to the "Thomas Knob Shelter" which is about 3 miles rom Massie Gap. You will bypass the "Wilburn Ridge Trail" and cross "Rhododendron Trail" once. Once you pass the "Crest" and "Pine Mountain Trails", the shelter should be about a half mile on the right. This is also the only place where we will be able to find a reliable water source since it is an active spring during the summer months.

If you don't trust the above directions, you can purchase a map from the Mt. Rogers NRA office (540-783-5196) with your credit card. The map you want is titled "Mount Rogers High Country and Wildernesses". Total cost that includes shipping is $4.25. When I ordered mine, it took only 4 days to arrive.

Don’t forget to always treat or filter water.

For whatever it’s worth, my arrival time at the trail head will be between 2-4 PM on Friday. We will NOT be using trail markers.

RULES OF THE TRAIL:

No permits are necessary to use the Appalachian Trail.

There is no camping or fires permitted within the Mount Rogers Scenic Area, or other posted areas. The Mount Rogers Scenic Area is between Deep Gap & Pine Mountain. Collecting plants and animals is prohibited in these areas as well.

Firearms are prohibited by Virginia law.

Do not handle or feed the ponies, or you will be sorry. Click on the "Midget Ponies" link at Trail Talk's "Mt. Roger's Roll Call" thread to find out why.

Dogs are aloud, but must remain under control at all times. In forest service campgrounds & roadways dogs must be on a leash.

LNT. But of course.

It is always a good idea to leave an itinerary with family, friends or the district ranger in case of emergency.

MOUNT ROGERS NRA HIGHLIGHTS:

Places to see things to do. The following are descriptions of places we might wish to see. The mile posts, and descriptions are referenced from the Appalachian Trail Guide listed below.

MP 20.6 -- Buzzard Rock & Whitetop Mountain

Buzzard Rock (5,100 feet) offers panoramic views toward North Carolina and Tennessee. Whitetop Mountain is the second highest peak in Virginia above 5,500 feet. The alpine-like meadows, so picturesque and affording grand views, are believed by some to be a true Appalachian "bald." The red spruce is remnant of the glacial-front forest, which extended in front of the ice cap 10-20,000 years ago. Below the spruce and Fraser fir are northern hardwoods--beech, birch, and sugar maples--common to New England and Canada.

MP 23.8 -- Mt. Rogers

Mt. Rogers, the highest peak in Virginia at 5,729 feet, is reached from the Appalachian Trail via a 1/2-mile blue-blazed trail. The mountain, believe to be more than 500 million years old, owes its’ height to the thick, resistant, volcanic strata underlying it. The mountain was once called Balsam Mountain, but was renamed in 1883 at the death of William Barton Rogers, the first state geologist and founder of Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

Mount Rogers is completely wooded, mostly with spruce and fir. It’s unusual vegetation and frequent mist and rain, cause unique flora and fauna to be found there. This is the southern most range of many northern plants and animals and the northern most range of many southern ones. There have been numerous studies of unusual birds and salamanders here; to protect the fragile ecosystem, 1,300 acres including the summit, were established as a scenic area in 1969. Camping, fires, and the collection of plants and animals within the area are forbidden. This area is also part of the Lewis Fork Wilderness.

MP 28.8 -- Rhododendron Gap

This gap is between Wilburn Ridge and Pine Mountain. It offers a scenic panorama, particularly in June when the purple rhododendron are blooming. From the gap and adjacent outcrops, thousands of acres of open meadow, rhododendron, northern hardwoods, and spruce-fir are visible.

MP 30.2 -- Wilburn Ridge

This ridge was named after Wilburn Waters, a popular folklore hero who lived in the mountains between 1812 and 1873. Hermit Waters was known as a great hunter, renowned for his adventures with bear and wolf. This ridge is a series of prominent rock masses, residual rhyolite weathered from volcanic layers.

MP 30.4 -- Grayson Highlands State Park

This park includes almost 5,000 acres adjacent to the NRA. Appalachian Trail leads to a shelter at Little Wilson Creek, the Massie Gap parking area, campground and store. The park has beautiful period cabins, a visitor center, and numerous trails.

MP 35.9 -- The Scales

The Scales is the site of old cattle scales used to weigh the herd before and after its summer months in the high-country pastures. A jeep road leads from here down to Fairwood Livery.

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References used for the above newsletters are:

Appalachian Trail Guide, Vaughn Thomas -- Field Editor

Hiking Virginia, Randy Johnson

Longstreet Highroad Guide to the Virginia Mountains, Deane & Garvey Winegar

Longstreet Highroad Guide to the Pennsylvania Mountains, Greg & Karen Czarnecki

Mount Rogers High Country and Wildernesses Map

Wayne D. Applegate -- IB

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