The Odyssey of a Seahawk:
From Hilton Head, South Carolina, to Zilina, Slovakia,

with the Fulbright Teacher Exchange Program



a little tower on Castle Hill

Budapest:

history and beauty where

East meets West


the Hungarian border


view of Pest from Castle Hill

8 October 1999
Went to Budapest (Hungary) today after school. Found the hostel without any problem, and it was a mere eight o'clock when I got there, so I decided to go reconnoitering. Looked on the map, got my bearings, walked around for hours through the city. The city is really a juxtaposition--old, stately buildings mixed with modern chrome, glass, and neon buildings. It is really quite stunning at night. The two old cities, Buda and Pest, are joined by four bridges, and these bridges are lit, the castle and Parliament are bathed in light, and the beauty, even at midnight, is evident. I found the Internet cafe (which is a MUST when I go away for a weekend) and checked my mail. Then it was time to go to the hostel and sleep until the adventure could continue!


view of Buda from Castle Hill


the Tree of Remembrance, which is built over mass graves of Holocaust victims

9 October 1999
Got up early, had the mandatory coffee (or three!), and began walking through the streets (I can tell this is going to be my method of seeing the cities--there is no real plan formed, just to walk until I see something that interests me). Of course, I have a few "must do" things on the list (always a list!!), but I think I can see so many more interesting things by walking through as many streets as possible.

I saw the living, breathing Attila the Hun!!! I was walking down the street by Gellert Hill, and suddenly I hear someone yelling, "Attila! Attila!" I turned toward the sound, and I see a road worker (they were putting down asphalt) asking a guy what to do with a pile of old road. And Attila the Hun was telling him where to put it!!



Wound my way through Gellert Hill, around Buda to the History Museum, up Castle Hill (which was QUITE a climb--next time I will take the incline!) to Matthias Church, which was originally a church, then served as a mosque when the Turks invaded Hungary, and reverted to a church after 145 years. There is a Bach Mass tonight in the church; bought my ticket and will be there at 7:30! I then walked over to Pest, and visited the synagogue, the largest synagogue in Europe and second largest synagogue in the world. The Jewish Museum was closed, but the Holocaust Memorial was visible. This is a metal tree which stands over mass graves dug in 1944-45. World War II, especially the Holocaust, has always been of great interest to me, and living in, standing in the place where this horror happened is indescribably important and meaningful. Then made my way to St. Stephen's Basilica. St. Stephen is the patron saint of Hungary, the first Christian monarch, and Hungary's holy relic, St. Stephen's right HAND is on display in the basilica. It is all dried and gray and shriveled, but really, really cool.

The concert (Bach Mass in H-Minor) was incredible. Listening to Bach (in a minor key no less!) in this medieval church, lights dimmed except towards the altar, was almost more than I could stand. During the two hour walk home, I felt as though I was floating through the streets instead of walking through them


the door to this incredible structure

10 October 1999
On the way home today I decided to stop at the Varosliget, a huge park that houses a zoo. Before I went to the zoo, I looked at the Millenium Monument (at least what I could see through the student track meet that was going on this morning). The monument was built in 1896, in honor of the 1000th anniversary of the founding of Hungary, and St./King Stephen is the first figure (who, incidentally, was crowned on Dec. 31, 1000!!!). It was a mistake to go to the zoo, though. I should know this by now. It was horribly depressing. The conditions were awful, the animals were pacing and pacing and pacing. The zoo was not that crowded, it was a rather gray day, and going to the zoo was not the best choice I have ever made. Note to self: avoid zoos in Europe ( I have been making this note to self for years--why don't I ever listen to myself?) Sitting at home, typing this, I can't believe I was actually in Budapest this weekend!!!!!


St. Matthias Church

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